on the early s60 when you have acceleration problems oftentimes is a hill delivery issue
don't blame first the field palm because the fill pumps on these cars are really really solid main
problems field pressure sensor on the rail when you have one on the right side of the rail but
first check the fuel pump module APM Colin and is located initially was located under the car
on the right side and Volvo later on relocated II but checklist and in the car you'll notice we
have the fuel tank right here and right on top of it you will perhaps get this small view of
the connector of the PM it sits right here the camera it's a bit hard to see with it it sits
right there you have a connector the wire and I did remove from mine the bracket that keeps that
this crew or tiny balls I think I got it out with
seven millimeter it's really really tiny don't lose it
slide it towards the side of the car
turned out you notice these small legs decide the ones that have to slide and
there's a bracket in there and that has those legs on all sides and then you have this very
annoying connector right to insert underneath a small screwdriver just pull it on the side
like that and instead the screwdriver is really really annoying to undo if I can do it one hand
just like that and lift that cab and bring down the knot don't pull on the wires bring down the
module from there alright so you really need to release that top from this small bomb and
this is how the connector looks Volvo has this problem with the connectors basically if you
see any corrosion on this cooling plate replace it don't buy it new from the volvo because it's
really expensive several hundred dollars but buy it from ebay but look for one that's really clean
like this because later on the these guys has been have been relocating inside the car and
they were really nicely protected the problem is really corrosion from this flight it sits
outside the car on early models corrode plate corrode and corrode inside as well and drops
on the control board and message the small components I have here two units this one
is the one I pull it and there's another one notice the parts are exactly the same number
the one on the right is the early one on my car this one it's a later one a notice it
was relocated inside the trunk on the right side near the spare tire you just leave that covering
a lot look for it it's attached with Velcro on the side of the wall but they are the same part
basically is just that when you chip with Volvo or online sometimes you see different numbers
but it's just the way it's attached different brackets on Volvox in 90s different attachment
on s 40 also has different attachments it's underneath the rear bench on the left side of
the car but then what the module it saw itself the connection here is exactly the same needs
no programming can get it used of eBay the only one that I think is different was on a specific
2004's s60 R and V 70 art they had a different connector here I believe but other than that all
costs exceed 90 70 s 60 even the East s40 v50 up to s port up to 2014 I think they had the
same model you can just swap it no problem Lee needed used work should be working perfectly you
may want to check the fuel filter if you have external one if you have an internal one in in
the pump itself inside the tank don't touch that one that's a lifetime part it's really
long lasting actually there are two filters in there so you don't should should not worry
again the way this guy's sitting there you need to plug it in and then you just slide it put it
there on the top of the tank and just slide it a little bit and just make sure it's stuck in there
it slides very easily no problem then place this tab is going to be placed something like this it
sits right under the connector and it has a bump in here so make sure you lower it to engage it to
stay secure in there in that bump and then you place that crew there's a hole just look above
for that small hole and screw it and that screw will just push on this plate just like that in
the middle of the plate and the plate notice has two legs it kind of springy and keeps the
connector it was fixed in there and security and that's how it goes the next guy is the FPS if you
have one on the Left right silent very really slowly just have a look to it this is how to
replace the fuel pressure sensor FPS is located on the right side of the rail if you have or not
all cost hard one note is the release the pure release valve we are going to depress it going
to use a t25 press the space it's tight you can undo this force it doesn't matter but the t25 oh
just put it on the just double wrench works very nicely so may want just to release the connector
flick it like this the problems usually with this its acceleration will hesitate to just accelerate
and that is bogging like this that's usually the pressure sensor the pump the pump module TEM field
pump electronic module I don't know exactly what it does often time to have no starting stalling
and stuff like this is more serious the pressure sensor is more agitation under acceleration under
more hard acceleration I'm not talking about misfire from the initial coils it's just the
gas delivery basically I will use this to catch the gas and don't do this inside the garage please
it will link on the floor and the gasoline is very very stinky stinky and almost impossible
to clean so watch out if you want a very good idea to use blocks because again it's very very hard to
wash off hands even with whatever you use alcohol over a key but it just doesn't want to wash off
it is critical I would strongly advise use eye protection because sometimes just especially
when the engine is hot but you just don't want to mess this getting to your eyes is really under
pressure it is critical to understand that even if you pull a sensor from a junkyard car that's
been sitting there for two or three weeks there is still pressure inside the rail don't do that
mistake I've seen in life guy took the pressure in it right into his eyes so always no matter
what release the pressure and since I'm doing this with the engine slightly warm I will have to keep
the pressure released when pulling the sensor so remember one engine thus in the sense the pressure
needs to be released at the moment of removing the sensor not just 10 minutes before all right so
let's just undo this this small this small screw there sometimes that's when it's stuck in there
so go gently tried not to round it use definitely the correct the correct t25 torx do not try with
anything else you are going to have a surprise and if you mess with this bolt here you won't be
able to remove the sensor no matter what so unless you replace the rail it's important perhaps now to
undo completely the bolt the the small screw so the sensor doesn't slide out and you get sprayed
so at this point when I see the small screw it's rotating I'm just going to release the pressure
just push it something always use a paper to cover that thing you don't want that thing spraying all
over the place and just depress down and again it will just leak a little bit of gasoline where
the most of the gasoline will leak here so I just want to remove the screw now that the pressure you
notice I keep depress this thing here on the other side of the screen so I don't let the pressure
build up especially when the world the engineers one it keeps building up this is why I'm really
wanting you guys so you don't have a surprise so right now you may want to turn a little bit the
sensor to break it loose when you see it's coming out and I'm turning and I'm pulling on it so I'll
going to release the pressure here because I'm going to move the sensor quickly so that's the
gasoline that leaks out I would say perhaps one ounce of gasoline about thirty millimeters or so
so this is why don't do this inside the garage and don't drain this by the municipality drain because
it is going to be messy and stinky I'm going to put that into my snowblower so let's just grab
the replacement sensor the one that you want to replace always use Vaseline the my dealers all
also use Vaseline the reason for this is that to make the the gasket here slide in there if it's
not lubricated it will chip no matter what new old it would chip so you don't definitely want
that thing always use gasoline if you are worried about gasoline well gasoline is petroleum and gas
is petroleum so the rubber here it's resistant to petroleum products so gasoline is vaseline
vaseline is the best thing just match it there nicely and press put some pressure while rotating
it a little bit and it should slide in there I just like to rotate it a little bit to eliminate
anything dirt or something that can get caught in there so it doesn't have any leaks and when I feel
it's okay just place back that screw make sure you match it inside the hole I'm trying to see
it where he needs that's cool tighten that thing back there's no need to undo the car battery for
this job it won't set any SRS messages or stuff like this and then tighten back the guy I would
say don't over-tighten sky because sometimes we want to replace the sensor again for some reason
maybe you that you put a used one just a small snug in there just slide slightly tight in there
well not slightly but you know what I mean just a kick and then got the connector back in place push
it until it clicks don't forget a smaller cup for the valve again it's I would say the most
important part use Google's use eye protection and release the pressure don't think again the
pressure doesn't drop it really lasts for weeks in there maybe months in also when the engine
is slightly warm keep that thing depressed at the moment of releasing the sensor from there that's
also very important and that's it it's very very easy and culprits these are the problems for the
fuel delivery like I said real electronic module TEM or this sensor not all car that got this
sensor but if you see it there that's another problem that happens with these engines both
football and non turbo and also on s40 v50 they also have the same issues thanks for watching