In today's tutorial I'm going to show you how to screen print reflective ink
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let's go ahead and dive right into this tutorial all right so we got about 36 of
these shirts to print it does have reflective piping on it and we're going
to do a reflective of left chest print on these polos the ink that I will be
using is international coatings op deluxe 505
it's a reflective ink with an activator so you will only have about six to eight
hours before that ain't goes bad alright so some of the things that you are going
to need you're going to need a scale you're going to need something to mix
your ink into I just have these cheap little plastic cups that I'm going to
use this eaton does require that you mix it 20 grams to one per the spec sheet so
let's go ahead and crack this open our print really isn't all that big we don't
need a whole lot of ink but let's go ahead and set this to grams so I'm gonna
shoot for 60 okay maybe maybe I'll shoot for 100 sorry guys it that went out a
lot quicker than I thought it wouldn't and I'll show you how to properly make a
mess okay there we go alright so let's go ahead and zero out our scale like I
said one gram four 20s I over poured a little bit which isn't a big deal so I'm
going to add five grams of the activator
there we go we got to I've got four let's see if we had an additional gram
there I'm going to go ahead and mix this up this heat is really runny so we ended
up hitting the six grand mark and I'm just going to mix this up my little
disposable plastic cup I think we are good and I can fill the grittiness of
the sink that is the low reflective particles in there now let's go ahead
and grab our screens and talk about mesh because we are printing on 100%
polyester polos we will have to use an under base just prevent dye migration it
is recommended to use an under base with fine fiber materials such as this polo
here the reason being is it will not be as reflective if you didn't we're going
to use a 110 mesh for the under base and then we're going to use a 195 the spec
sheet says to use either a 156 to a 230 the reason being is if you put down too
much of the carrier with the reflective particles it will essentially not make
it reflective because all of those particles will be buried down inside
that carrier so we're trying to put down as little ink as possible and still get
those reflective characteristics like I said here's my 110 and then my 195 that
way we're laying down too much of that reflectively so let's grab our screens
and go ahead and serve this job up and then we'll get to doing some samples
all right we got our white bass down now what I'm going to do is take some clear
transfer tape put that over my bass print with my registration marks and
we're going to register up that reflective e overprint looks like we're
all nice and registered so now what I'm going to do is tape off my registration
marks and then we'll do some sample prints and we'll go to production so
off-camera I had to do a little bit of an ink change on the base because the
reflective ink really isn't that opaque of an ink let's go ahead already do some
test prints I'll show you those as well we're gonna go ahead and go to
production and I'll show you how to screen print reflectively this is the
reflective eat without any kind of base you can see that it is a little bit
translucent and then here we are with the gray base and I'll show you guys
what this looks like on the actual product in the dark with me with some
really bright light hitting it and you can even kind of tell you can even see
the reflectiveness of it here because it kind of looks white on camera but it's
really a darker gray and this is the gray that we are using for the base I
essentially mixed up some npt one-stroke white with a little bit of black so
that's work well and here is our reflective beef you
can see that it pretty much the same color as the other gray maybe a touch
darker but we come over here and there is just a thin layer of that eat down
the reflectiveness to this the reflectiveness or however you want say
for reflectiveness you can already see it taking effect just even in a daylight
okay now that I've done some sample prints let's go ahead and start
production I'm gonna line mine hello up and move this caller out the
way so the flash doesn't harm it so I'm going to go ahead and hit my base just
once
just make sure that it's cleared that looks pretty good
and they'll roll on my flashover gonna let that flash for about a good eight
seconds or so and make sure that it is flash properly it looks like we need to
flash a little more the ink is a little thicker right here because of this
collar the button up collar so I'm gonna flash it a little more
go now the key to doing the reflective eat is just flooded and give them one
good hit clearing your screen and there we go I mean that's pretty much it you
don't want to pile it on because the more you pile on the more of the kind of
carrier ink is gonna lay down and it will not allow those reflective beads
whatever's in there to stand out and to be able to be hit by that light so let's
cut and toss this on the conveyor dryer in curing the ink is really no different
than carrying any other plastisol it just needs to reach three hundred and
thirty degrees so we're gonna let this run through make sure our temps right
and we're good to go
there we go it's nice and cured everything looks great we'll let it cool
down for a little bit we'll do a little bit of a stretch test okay so it's nice
and cured stretches really well without cracking now let's do some tests what's
you life how reflective it is in the dark blasted with the light of my cell
phone looks pretty good
well that's about it for this tutorial I hope it was helpful well that's about it
for this tutorial I hope it was helpful I'm gonna get to work I got the print
the rest of these rolled the outro with me doing some work