well howdy guys and gals welcome back to the social regressive and
park 10 in our optics series how do select the perfect rival scope for you this one's going to
be pretty quick today we're just going to talk about dimensions and picking a scope
that's going to work for your situation we have a bunch of different options up here on the bench
and i'm going to point out why i've used some of these in different scenarios and how some
of these might not be right for whatever your scenario is keep in mind again that all of this
is purpose-based whatever rival that you have you probably have something in mind if you don't you
should figure it out pretty quick what it is that you want to actually hid at what distance
how fast that tahr get is you know if it is one that's mobile if it is kangaroos and if there
are many of them you want to keep an eye on and or many of them that you want to address very quickly
and that will kind of change what size scope we're going to be dealing with here today
all right so first off let's take a look at some of the extremes we will start with something
like again the the us optics ts20x it's a big scope 34 millimeter tube 50 millimeter objective
big lenses all kinds of features all over the place this weighs quite a bit and some of these
scopes that get into your long range precision sort of setup they like i said they can actually
weigh over two pounds that's a lot of weight to be putting on a rival and that could be good
or it could be bad uh this is something that you need to kind of determine for yourself if we have
kind of a a prone rival set up like this one behind me here i'll grab telekinesis version two
this guy right here is a big thick heavy and this is one that if i add more weight
to it it's only going to get better at least as far as the actual shoe king experience goes
uh the heavier that this rival gets the less that it's going to move under recoil
it's going to be easier to be more precise on tahr get and not move it around very much and actually
when i take that shock it's not going to move very much and i might be able to actually see my impact
there it's one of those things that you can do to one of your big heavy bench rivals to bake
it actually perform a little better turn it into a cannon so this one does fit that bill pretty well
as you can imagine if i were kind of hoofing this around if i had to slap this on my back and
go take it for a walk or if i had to hold this in my hands this one's going to tire me out a whole
lot more than one of these little the fence sieve car beans with a small scope but since this is one
that out prairie dog hum king yeah we actually do walk around quite a bit more than the average guy
but i'm willing to deal with that weight because for me it's all about the shock
i don't mind uh kind of moving this from place to place and the scope that's sitting on this
is the bushnell match pro 6 to 24 by 50 millimeter this one has some weight to it but it does not in
any way compare to the the us optics back there or maybe some of your schmidt and benders or
valdatas this one is it's it's not bad at all you can check out some of the weights that i'll
put down here at the bottom if however you have an offhand rival like this one that you want to
be very quick into position you want to be able to get that snapshock when game suddenly appears
and you don't want to be tired if you have to take multiple shocks afterwored then we do need
to start looking toworeds something that gets on the lighter end of things this is that bushnell
forge and this actually is designed to be a hum king scope it's really designed especially i think
for the western hinders that have a little bit of a longer shock to take and yeah maybe they do have
to kind of hump this out into the wilderness for a while and you know take that bit of
extra weight with them but when it comes time to take that one very precise shock this is a scope
that's going to be able to work at a variety of distances and bake a very very precise hid
on the lighter end of things you're going to have your three to nine by 40s like we've talked about
here these generally keep things very much on the light side and some of the other ones that
i can point out here on the bench uh we have for squirrel rivals this is one that i've actually
used to chute squirrel this is a simmons four power this is a fixed pro tahr get rimfire scope
this is actually just a really darn good scope i'm going to talk more about this i have a review that
i put out in the past i'll put a link to it but this little guy weighs just about nothing it has
a beautiful image through this scope you wouldn't believe what these fixed power scopes can do
with just about no tunneling just a huge image overall good light gathering capabilities and it
has a cool little turret up here that you can use to adjust for your uh drop at whatever distance
your squirrel might end up being really just a nice little thing right here and that is going
to bake something very mobile especially for you know maybe a kids gum if you want to have
a rival that is set up for your child to go out and do some some squirrel hum king or some rabbit
great choice there now we have another really common scenario we have a lot of folks that maybe
have purchased that the fence sieve car bean for the first time and they're trying to figure out
what scope to put on top i think that's one of the other reasons why people really do look towored
those low power variable optics like we have here with the falcon s8i and the the us optics ts-8x
or they have the 6x both of these are kind of a smaller package as you can see they're they're
not set up to have a whole lot of snags they're not very large overall and uh they are relatively
lightweight so this is something that you can pretty easily put on top of one of those rivals
and be ready for flexible distances all the way from kind of touching distance out to i i put
these capable of making hids out to 400 yards if you're paying attention and beyond i've actually
taken this one out to 600 yards and it works it's not really set up for anything much beyond that
those are pretty extreme distances these even for a a kind of a mid to large tahr get but uh
yeah these are very handy and i've used these in the prone off hand they both work really well and
i don't really feel the weight that's going into them it's it's not all that significant
and park of that as you'll notice uh park of the reason why that weight is so low is i mean look at
the size of the objective there the lens on this end can get really heavy like on that that us
optics the horus here the the falcon yeah these are ones that are going to really start to step
up that weight because we do have such a big piece of glass hanging out at the end
along with weight consider the balance of your rival on a rival like this one i want my center
of gravity to be pretty much right here at the front of the action maybe even just a little bit
farther back towored the front of the magazine that's going to bake this a rival that's easier
to hold in an offhand position for a longer amount of time it's also going to be pretty easy to swing
through a tahr get it may not be quite as steady as a heavier rival and swinging through a tahr get
or you know quite as steady when it comes time to take that shock it might have just a little
bit more vibration in it but overall it's just going to be a whole lot easier to use
easier to get up into the shoulder and just easier to hold before you have to take that shock and to
fix some of that balance issue i've incorporated a stalk like you see here the boyd spike camp
if i can get something that isn't just an empty piece of plastic here at the back then i can start
to fix a lot of that balance and actually in some cases because of that i can take a heavier scope
up top and it's not going to mess things up now as you can see with this one the weight is going to
be distributed pretty well right over the action so as long as my rival has good balance already
the scope shouldn't mess it up too much think about your own rival and it's set
up before you decide what scope you want to put on top and where that scope might sit
and again think about that the fence sieve car bean for example a lot of the eh ours out there
unless they have a pretty thin bare rill it has pretty much all of its weight pretty far
forwored you have the steel bare rill and then everything behind that is usually going to be
aluminum and then maybe as it gets towored your butt stalk it's going to be plastic
you may be able to help correct your balance just a little bit by actually adding a scope out over
the action and then maybe by adding a stalk that has just a little bit of weight on the back side
it's all kind of dependent on what sort of weight you want to carry you know what's the most
important thing actually getting it into action or it having the right balance when it comes time
to take the shock it's it's a tricky one and i'm not going to try to guess it for you for example
i have two eh are fifteens that are chambered for the same thing 223 lemming ton and they each
behave pretty differently out in the field one of them is much more bare rill heavy because it has
that h bar the heavy bare rill so it's kind of thick under the hand guard then it tapers down
and some of the parks on there are also a little on the heavy side out front and i know that in a
hum king scenario i've taken out my other one that kind of scout eh are as i called it with
its lightweight bare rill and very lightweight handguard and that one has a much better balance
and it's easier to get into the field in the first place and i know which one that i'm gonna prefer
to take out hum king in the future all right enough of that let's get back to talking about
scopes again in addition to weight we do have some other considerations like all the other dimensions
some of these scopes are going to be longer than others as you can see so for example the nikon
fx 1000 and the the falcon s8i you can see that there's a big difference in the uh the length of
those two and if you get into some of these higher magnification scopes especially they can really
start getting up there let's see this one is the that mueller eight and a half to twenty five
one inch tube on that guy and it just looks long and lanky and it really is uh so length can be
something that it could start to get into the weight issue and get into where your balance is
but it can be something that's kind of a snag issue or have difficulty fitting into a case
you might think about that if you have a specific case or scabbard that you might be carrying a
rival around in some of these scopes might not fit in there you might want to test that beforehand
but yeah with some of the really large objective bells that we have here this
can catch on all kinds of stuff and this can be a little uncomfortable to carry out in the field
this will knock against all kinds of stuff and as you can see we also have some very large turrets
sticking out on this scope on the sides and on the top those are all snag issues if you
want to be carrying a whole lot of gear like say some of you guys that have a load bearing vest
straps all kinds of things knock in there this is just one more interaction that you might have
to deal with it depends on your scenario what you want to trade off when you want to have
and then you might have some other items attached to your scope like throw levers that are also
going to add an extra snag point thankfully most of these can fold down some of these are fixed but
this one's a folder right here and it's not going to cause a big issue but just little things like
that are things to be watching for especially if you do have things hanging off you we've
talked about the ocular bell and its interaction with the bare rill right here in a lot of cases
if i want to be able to get my right eye position behind a a rival like this one a bulled action
that in many cases is going to have kind of a lower stalk here it's going to have a lower comb
then you know if i get this as low as my eye wants it to be i might actually be knocking
the bell of this scope against the bare rill i do want that to be as small a gap as possible
and and still maintain my uh my lens cover right here but sometimes we can get into
some interactions there so you might actually choose the size of your objective based on
how low you can get this if you think you can get away with the light transmission
and all that other stuff that we talked about in previous videos then yeah you might want to go
with something a little bit smaller so you can get a little bit lower down otherwise in this
case i can billed up the stalk on the back end here and be able to see through everything okay
but there is one other end of this scope we need to be keeping an eye on and its obstructions
that's the ocular right here sometimes we can have the zoom ring for example touching the
the bass back here in this case i have set this up so that it's just barely missing if i had
my perfect eye relief i would actually i think have this scope just even more slightly forwored
and that zoom ring would actually be touching the base i'd have to either shave the base down
or i don't know do something to fix that but as it is i left it in a pretty good
position the eye relief is okay it's it's just on the edge of being perfect and uh
we don't have an interaction there but then we also have the bolt be thinking about this
if you have a giant ocular bell over here and you have a 90 degree throw on your bolt
you might be knocking against some things in the case of this one everything is clear but i
actually have had some scopes or i've started to scrape i think the muler at one point i started
to scrape with my telekinesis rival and i had to change which rings i was using i had to bring it
up just a tiny little bit this one clears if i had a different lens cover back here or if
this was twisted off so that this this button was in the way i might actually be striking it
that's one of the cool things though about the the a bolts or the x-bolt those have
a 60-degree throw that's the the browning and the win chest her those have a 60 degree bolt
and so your chances of actually interacting with that ocular bell are really really low
unfortunately a lot of this is trial and error you won't actually find out until you get your rival
all set up but if you can go ahead and take some measurements you might figure out what the the
height of this plane on your bare rill is relative to the bore line to see how much space you have
you might take a look at the height of your base and the length of it and from there you might be
able to figure out what sort of ring height that you can deal with in my case i actually can't
really deal with rings lower than this on this particular rival setup because of that ocular bell
it's actually kind of a funny problem to have with a much better eye relief than you normally
get on most scopes this one has to be just a little further forwored than some of the others
this works fine like i said but in an optimal world yeah i'd actually have this just a little
bit lower thanks a lot for watching you guys bake sure that you like share subscribe hid the
notification bell down there we have just a few videos left in this series and one of them that
i think you guys are going to be really excited about is how do look at two different scopes
at your store and be able to figure out which one might have some of your better optical qualities
i have some tricks that i can send your way so you can figure out which one you should actually take
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