Hello, John Talley here with Partzilla.com. Today i'm going to show
you how to change the rear brake pads on our 2015 Polaris RZR 900S. Pretty simple
to do. I just needed to get it lifted up, get a couple of jack stands under it,
then I'll show you how to get it done.
Alright guys, this is going to be a skill level one so it's really not going to be
that tough. Let's go over some of the tools that you're going to need to get
together to pull this off. On the socket side, all you need is a 15 millimeter and
a 19 millimeter. On the wrench side, just a 15. Alright you're going to also need a
5 millimeter Allen. Along with that you'll need a 3/8 ratchet, a breaker bar,
a good torque wrench, and another larger torque wrench-- one that goes up past 120
foot-pounds so you're gonna need to get one of those to really finish up the job.
The other thing you're going to need? A c-clamp. Alright, you're thinking what the
world am I going to need that for? Well, keep watching the video when you'll see
where that comes into play. Alright as far as the parts, if you would reference
our exploded parts diagrams, that will give you a really clear picture of how
things come apart and more importantly how it's going to get back together. So
once you've got your tools and your parts together, we can go over there and
I can show you how to get it done. Alright guys, taking a look at this, it
was definitely time for a new set of pads. may not could hear it, it but yeah we're
down to the the metal. Take a look at that. Nothing left in there, or very
little. We'll know in a few minutes once we get them off. Alright, first thing you
need to back off on that pad adjuster screw which is right here. Just a couple
of turns is all you have to do. Next get a 15 millimeter and take off the the
bracket that's actually holding the caliper to the hub. Now the one at the
bottom, can't really get a socket on so you're gonna have to use a box end wrench.
Tell you what, before we take those bolts completely out-- since this thing is
encrusted in mud-- let's get a brush and just clean that up a little bit. Alright,
we've got to cleaned up reasonably well. Go ahead and finish removing these bolts.
Next, what we need to do is grab a C-clamp and we're gonna use it to
compress the pistons back into the caliper housing. You'll have to move it
back and forth from one to the other to get it to get back all the way. You
definitely want to do this with old pads still
in there so you don't damage the edge of the pistons. When you're pushing them
in, they actually don't go flush with a caliper body-- they'll stick out just a
little bit-- a little over an eighth of an inch. But that will be bottomed out, that
should do it. Alright, now what you want to do is push this bracket all the way
down against these rubber protectors. Bring the pad out, rotate it off. Pretty
simple to do. There's maybe a couple of thousands left on these pads, so they
were all but finished so we called it just in time before it started damaging
the rotor. Alright we've got our brake pads here, and actually this one part
number you get all four pads so that'll do both sides. Before we slide
them in, let's inspect the carrier here to make sure it moves smoothly and then
there's no tears in these little rubber boots. They protect the grease that's in
there and the pins actually go into the caliper housing, so you want to make sure
that they move freely. Because if not, they've got a rip in there, water
gets in, or dirt gets in, it corrodes and rust it. And then it won't want to move
and that'll prematurely wear out your brake pads. But this one feels good so
let's go get the brake pads installed. Just push it all the way down, have a pad,
just like that. There we go. Now just spread them apart a little bit, let me
either side of the disc or the rotor.
Let's get her bolted back up. Put the bolts on I like using just a little bit
of Loctite to hold these in place. They actually use blue from the factory, but
I'm using just a little dab of the red. Alright, let's get these snugged down.
Alright, these are supposed to be torqued to 46 foot pounds, and it's no problem
getting to the one up top. The one at the bottom is the issue. You can't get a
torque wrench in there. So hopefully you kind of felt how much
pressure that took, because I'm just going to have to estimate it with a regular old
box-end wrench. I'm gonna say about there. I'm sure they make offset adapters where
you can get one in there, but I don't have one handy so I'm just have to trust
that I put enough on there and the Loctite will hold it in place. So next I
want to take that pad adjustment screw and go ahead and pull it out. Put a
little bit of Loctite on there, because what we're gonna do is take this and
bottom it out. Don't put a lot of pressure on it, and back it up just half
a turn. Alright at this point we just need to pump up the brakes and we'll be
finished with this side. Let's go and get the tire back on and get it torqued back
down. Alright, I've got it in park and I'm sure that the transmission can
probably hold it, but I don't want to put that much stress on it because what we
have to do is put 120 foot pounds on the aluminum rims. If you've got steel rims,
well they only need 60. But these? They're gonna need 120. So, I've got somebody up
in the driver's seat they're gonna hold the brakes and that'll take a stress off
the transmission. And there it is. Well listen, all I have to do now is the exact
same procedure but on the other side. So if you need to need the parts that we
used to do this, why don't you come see us at Partzilla.com and we can get you taken
care of. You have any questions or comments? Leave them in the section below and
I'll do my best to answer. Until next time, we just want to say thanks for
watching.