well howdy guys and gals welcome back to the social regressive and park two of our massive
optics series talking about how do select the perfect rival scope for you and what you plan
to do with it we have a lot of first-time buyers out there so i figured this would be a good time
to go through some of the jargon that we're going to be using in all the videos in this series this
is going to be about a 14 to 15 park series and i want to bake sure that everybody understands what
i'm talking about when we go through some of this stuff okay so first off we're going to talk about
the the parks of a rival scope so probably one of the biggest things you're going to hear me talk
about is the objective that is the first lens that's the one that first collects light here
on this end it's usually the largest lens that we have in a scope kind of depends on what we're
dealing with you'll see some other examples over here but yeah this is the objective bell and the
objective lens sitting in the objective bell on the opposite end you have the ocular bell and the
ocular lens so this is the one closest to your eye to get the correct focus for your individual eye
because not all of our eyes work the same way some of us may have prescription you know lenses that
we have to wear either contacts or glasses and if you want to be able to see correctly through
your scope you're going to want to probably twist this diopter adjustment at the end of the scope
this is what we call a fast focus either diopter or ip so as we're going to call this so i can
get my correct focus we have some other types like this one this is more of your traditional
hum king scope a lot of you guys will have this where it's it's kind of a couple different parks
in order to adjust your uh your diopter for your eye you're actually going to spin the whole
eyepiece and then you're going to have perhaps a locking ring right here that's going to lock
it into place we have some other systems as well some of the more modern scopes will actually have
kind of a fast focus with a lock like the um the bushnell xrs2 gill her scope that thing is awesome
but you're going to see a couple different ways to get the same effect now next up from there
you're going to have your zoom ring and in this case we do have a little throw lever attached
most of these is just going to be a ring that has some knurling on it as with a k
but yeah you grab that and you can spin that to be able to change your magnification we'll talk
about that term here in a second it's more of a concept one yeah that's how you change from
on this one to four and a half up to 18 x in front of that we're going to have the tube this is going
to come in all kinds of sizes this is a one incher some of the scopes you see here are 30 millimeter
and then stepping up to 34 millimeter there are 35 and 40. and that tube is going to determine some
pretty interesting things we'll talk about that in another video but it's going to be the same
here at the back as it as it is here on the front and that's where you attach your rings up here
we're going to have the the turrets so this is how you're going to adjust your elevation so if i
click this around usually if we're looking from the top if i click it anti-clockwise
counterclockwise that's going to dial me up for some of the longer shocks go the other way
for some of the shorter shocks or if i need to adjust my zero this is your windage knob right
here so yeah it's elevation up top that's going to be how much drop you need to deal with or
your change in vertical to change your horizontal this is the windage knob these are called exposed
turrets right here so i can just reach up and grab them we also have some that are capped
so this guy right here the miller that has caps i'll need to spin these off to get at the turrets
underneath and some of these are going to be let me find a good example some of these will
be very easy to grab and turn some of these you may need a coin some of the older hum king scopes
especially they try to keep everything really really low profile very small and snag free and
so in order to turn these there's really nothing to grab with your fingers you have to use a coin
or maybe the rim of a cartridge to kind of slot in there and click this around so this is definitely
more of your old school scope actually this is an old scope it's an old simmons gold metal pistil
scope really really good one on the side here we may have some options for what is attached to
what is going to be your left side of the scope usually in this case we have parallax adjustment
and this is going to kind of do two things it's going to bring the tahr get into focus
so if i have two different tahr gets uh one at 50 yards and then one at 500 yards if i
have a higher magnification scope like this one they're not going to both be in focus so i can
roll this to address one or the other but this is actually more important than that and we're going
to talk about this in another video parallax is a bit more than just getting the correct focus
if we are off on our focal planes in here if they are not all lined up
not only will we not see the the object of our desire in focus but actually our reticle can move
around relative to it and we may actually miss our shock entirely it tries to line up both things
if everything is set up really well inside the scope and you get everything dialed in correctly
you should not only get correct focus on your tahr get but you should also get that parallax fixed
so that if your eye is off just a little bit to one side or the other you're not going to miss
your shock and they they both should track together but they might not and i can't say
that they necessarily will so one thing that you might want to do is when you go to take that shock
move your eye around a little bit and if you see the crosshair moving relative to the tahr get
fix or parallax even if the focus isn't quite right there's another way to address that focus
or parallax and that's what's called an adjustable objective right up front here this one doesn't
have side adjust this one is up front and so i can just grab this whole bell and twist it to get uh
my correct parallax and you can see that this has an estimate of what kind of yardage uh this
one goes from 15 yards all the way up to infinity all of them will go to infinity but it's how close
uh is going to be some of the more interesting things to talk about when we get into
that particular discussion now that left side knob might not be parallax adjustment it might be
illumination or it might be a combination of both this right here is a us optics ts20x really nice
scope this has a big tube as you can see this is a 34 millimeter tube this one can do a whole lot
this is a very very flexible and powerful scope but this has parallax adjustment here on the side
so i can twist this kind of inner ring and then this outer one is illumination so i actually have
an illuminated reticle on the inside and if i twist this around it'll actually light up the
reticle on the inside those are going to be your main parks and controls but then we do also have
some other jargon that we're going to be getting into and in this next video that we're going to
do we're going to be talking about magnification and zoom ratio magnification is the ability of
anything from a camera lens to a rival scope like this one to increase the apparent size of
whatever it is that you're looking at so we have some here that will go all the way down from one
x for example so it'll see things the same way that your eye does but then it might zoom all the
way up to say 4x so you can see your tahr get four times larger than it normally would be to your eye
zoom ratio is what the ratio is between your low end and your high end so if we have a scope like
oh this one right here this is the falcon s8i and this has a zoom ratio of 8x this is a huge
zoom ratio and very uncommon in the industry this will go all the way from 1x so i'm seeing
the same magnification through the scope as i am with my normal eye and then if i zoom this
all the way up to 8x that's a yeah that's going to be increasing it quite a bit i'm going to see
the tahr get much larger eight times larger than what i just did so that is a zoom ratio
of 8x on that one it's much more common to have 3x like a 3 to 9 scope your average whide tail scope
is going to have a 3x zoom ratio you're going to see four like you get a lot of these eh are
style scopes like this one the lpvos a lot of these are going to be one to four
this is a one to eight right here so this is another 8x zoom ratio we're going to
talk about those numbers in another video and what they really mean in the real world
it might sound like more is better but that's not necessarily so so we're going to kind of delve
into that and talk about when you might want to pick one over the other one last thing that we're
going to be talking about a whole lot is something that is not apparent from the outside of the scope
you can only see it by looking through that is the reticle the reticle is that series of lines
it could be the traditional crosshair like you normally see in a a whidetail hum king scope
it could be a mil-dot reticle it could be one of those bull it drop compensating or my personal
favorite the horus tremor 3. there are all kinds of reticles out there that all do different things
and i'm going to help you try to figure out which one might work for you and what you plan to do
and that's what this whole series is about we're going to talk about where that reticle is placed
what reticle might work best for your situation and the way that your own mind thinks and yeah
we have a whole lot to talk about so do not miss a thing we are going to have a full huge series on
this so bake sure that you like share subscribe and hid that notification bell down below
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having some questions about you know what kind of scope do i want for my rival hopefully this series
is going to answer a lot of those questions thanks a lot for watching and special thanks to patrons
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