Hey guys, it's Sara with extremeterrain.com. And today we have a review and install of the Teraflex
1.5 inch performance leveling kit, fitting your 2020 and newer Jeep Gladiators. This kit will work
well for Gladiator owners that want a quality but still budget-friendly solution to give you some
more room for wheels and tires and even out your factory rake. This kit provides 1.5 inches of lift
in the front, reducing your factory rake and giving your Gladiator a more level appearance
while still maintaining stock ride quality. Now, I do want to point out this kit is modular, so,
for those of you who plan to tow or haul often, you can just install this 1-inch spacer here.
But for those of you who want the most lift in the front and the most this kit can offer,
we're going to be installing both the 1 inch and half-inch spacers that we have in this kit.
Now, depending on your model, stock tire sizes may vary. For ours, we have a 31-inch tire stock
which is what you will see in this video. The manufacturer recommends a 33-inch tire
with this kit if you have a Sport or Sahara model, and if you have a Rubicon you can fit
up to a 35. This kit features spacers that have durable polyurethane construction with a nice
black finish. They utilize the factory spring and shock and include all mounting hardware. And as
far as price goes, this kit comes in at around $150 making it one of the more budget-friendly
solutions to get a level appearance to your Gladiator and get you some more room for wheels
and tires. And as far as the install goes, I'm giving this one a two out of three wrenches on
the difficulty meter. It does feature a direct bolt-up installation with no modification required
and can be done within three hours. So, with that said, let's check out the install.
For this install, you will need an impact gun or a ratchet. You will also need a 6-millimeter Allen
key or Allen socket, 10-millimeter, 15-millimeter, 18-millimeter, and 21-millimeter sockets,
and extension or two. You may want a swivel extension. You'll need the included wrench,
needle-nose pliers, 18-millimeter wrench, and you may want a flathead screwdriver.
All right. So, we have our Gladiator in the air with the front wheels removed. Now, before we
can disconnect anything, make sure to support your axle. We have a pole jack on either side.
Now, we're raising our pole jacks to support the axle one on each side.
Now, we're not jacking up by this, we're just raising it
until it supports the axle. The first step with an 18-millimeter socket and 18-millimeter wrench,
disconnect the nut and bolt that hold on the lower portion of your sway bar end link.
Moving on to the other side of the site is the same concept but a little bit different.
We don't need a wrench up here because we have a flag nut on the back.
So, grab your 18-millimeter socket, go ahead and get this removed.
Next up, we're going to remove the bolt that holds your track bar to the axle.
You'll need a 21-millimeter socket and you may want an extension.
This is also easiest if the wheel is turned to give you a bit more room.
Next up, we're going to disconnect the brake lines on each side so that they have a little
more room when we drop our axle. We're going to remove this 15-millimeter nut at the bottom here,
and also just to be safe a 10-millimeter bolt-up top.
Grab your 15-millimeter socket and let's get this removed.
All right. Once you've repeated that with your brake line on the other side,
we can remove the nut and bolt from the bottom of your shock. Now, with your 18-millimeter
socket and 18-millimeter wrench, remove the bolt from the bottom of your shock.
Make sure you remove the bolt from the bottom of your passenger side shock as well. And while we're
on the passenger side, we're going to unplug the four-wheel-drive actuator as well. To release this
clip, you can use your finger. I'm just going to use a flathead and just gently release it.
Then to remove this connector, press down and pull backwards. Next up, we're going
to disconnect the breather tube on the other side of the axle. With your needle-nose pliers,
loosen the clip and wiggle it off.
All right. So, at this point, we can lower both of the pole jacks
so we can remove the spring on each side. And you want to make sure you do these as
evenly as possible so the axle stays straight across.
At this point, you can lift out your spring.
Remove the factory rubber piece. Now, we can get our spacers assembled. We're going to stack them
on top of each other like this. You'll note that the two tabs in the back are lined up.
And then in comes our factory rubber isolator, go ahead and line that up with the two tabs as
well. And now we can get this whole assembly installed on the Jeep. Now, you'll notice that
there's two tabs on the top here, they're going to line up to two holes in the top of your tower.
When we have the spring in, make sure those are lined up. But for now,
we're going to slide this in place and let it sit right here. Now, we can reinstall the spring. It
may take a minute to line everything up. And I want to point out that I have the
bump stop extension on the inside of the spring here to help us line it up in place.
Line up your bump stop extension. With the hole in this bracket that comes off the axle, slide
the included hardware through. We will install a nut on the bottom. Now, I can install the nut on
the bottom here. They have a special tool to hold it in place so you can line it up with your bolts
and get it threaded in. Now, with the included tool to hold the nut in place, and a 6-millimeter
Allen key or Allen socket, you may want a small extension here. Go ahead and tighten it down.
All right. So, now you're going to repeat all of those steps on
the other side to get your spacers and bump stop extension in place.
Next up, we're going to lower down the axle so we can remove our pole jacks and get the vehicle
safely on the ground so we can seat our spacers and line up the bolt for our shock.
Now that the Jeep is on the ground, we're going to jack up the front axle
until it seats the spacers and also lines up the bolt hole for our shock.
Before you go any further, you can check to make sure your spacers are seated by checking
for two tabs, one on each side, one right here,
the second one on the other side right back there. Once you're sure the spacers are in place,
we're going to continue to raise the axle until it lines up with the bottom of our shock.
With your shock lined up, reinstall the factory hardware.
Now, with an 18-millimeter socket and an 18-millimeter wrench, tighten these down.
Now, at this point, make sure you get your spacers seated and your shock bolt
reinstalled on the other side. And now we will reinstall the sway bar end link.
Line it up to the opening on your bracket, throw the factory bolt through.
Grab your 18-millimeter socket and an 18-millimeter wrench and tighten these down.
Make sure you repeat that for the other side and reinstall the other end of your sway bar.
And now we're going to reinstall the breather tube. We're just compressing this clamp and
sliding it back over top. Reinstall the plug for your four-wheel drive actuator,
make sure to press down this tab. Now, you can reinstall the brackets for your brake lines
and grab your 15-millimeter socket to tighten it down.
Line up the tab through the top one, thread your bolt back in,
grab a 10-millimeter socket, and tighten it down.
Now, you're going to repeat that to reconnect your brake line brackets on the other side.
And then there's one more step but before we can do that, we need to put the wheels back
on and put it on the ground so we can reconnect our track bar.
With the help of a friend, line up the track bar with the hole
in the frame by moving your wheel back and forth.
Once it's lined up, reinstall your hardware.
All right. Now, with our hardware in place, the easiest way to get
a socket on here is to turn your wheel all the way to the right.
Now, with our wheel turned all the way to the right, we can get a socket in between
these two arms. I'm using a swivel as well to make sure we get a good
contact on the whole bolt. Go ahead with a 21-millimeter socket, tighten it down.
All right. Now that your track bar is reinstalled,
make sure everything is torqued to spec and you will want to get a professional lineman
afterwards. And then that is going to do it for the review and install this leveling kit.
And remember for all things Gladiator, keep it at extremeterrain.com.