To mask the wooden board you will need a good quality painters tape, such as green frogtape
Begin by masking a straight edge where you want the resin to stop
Fold the tape underneath the board and press the resin edge down firmly
Mask around the edge of the entire handle underneath
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Use a very sharp knife to trim away the excess tape
Press the tape down very firmly at the edges
Cut some oval shapes from the painters tape
It's easier to cut if you stick it to a piece of grease-proof paper first
Stick the oval shapes into position, and press down firmly. Rub the overlaps down with a wooden stick.
The shapes that don't overlap the edge should be cut in half to aid removal later
Slightly overlap the two halves, and rub down firmly to create a tight seal
Don't put the holes too close together
Priming the surface with acrylic paint has two benefits:
Firstly, the paint will create a seal between the tape and the wood, to stop the resin seeping underneath
Secondly, the paint will stop the wood from showing through the resin on the edges, where it will be very thin
I begin by brush coating a liberal layer of paint all over the surface to be covered in resin
I then even out the texture with a paint roller
Allow the paint to dry thoroughly, for at least a couple of hours
I'm adding some tabs made from the same painters tape to help me uncover the oval shapes after the resin pour
For this project I'm using a FOOD SAFE clear casting epoxy art resin
This resin has a 2A:1B mix ratio by weight
40g was more than enough for this pour
Mix thoroughly, taking care to not introduce any air bubbles
I'm adding 10% of the weight of the resin in acrylic paint. So for 40g of resin I'm adding 4g of paint.
The paint will go much darker when added to the resin, so I'm mixing 3 parts white (3g) to 1 part buttermilk (1g) to maintain the actual colour
I STRONGLY recommend doing a test batch to ensure compatibility between your materials
Add the paint to the resin and stir thoroughly
Protect your work surface and use a couple of blocks to raise the cheese board by at least 15mm
Wear a protective glove on whichever hand you will use to spread the resin
Gently pour the resin over the surface. Try to avoid the masked areas as much as you can.
Drizzle some resin around the edges
Spread the resin evenly with your finger, ensuring all areas are covered
The resin will find it's own level, and any surplus will drip over the edge
The resin will only glaze the sides with a thin coat, which is why it's beneficial to prime with a similar coloured paint
Don't forget to coat the inside of the hole
Use a flame to quickly pop any surface bubbles
Use a cotton bud or mixing stick to scrape under the edges to remove any drips
You might have to repeat this after a few minutes
Allow the resin to cure until stiff enough to remove the tape without losing its shape
After 2 hours I test a piece of scrap resin with a cocktail stick. Draw a line through the resin, and if the line heals itself, you need to wait longer.
After 4 hours, I repeat the test. If the line remains with a sharp edge, the tape can be removed.
Carefully peel away the masking. There may be a few stringy bits of resin but don't worry, we will deal with those.
Pull the tape upwards, as cleanly as possible.
The tape should have left a nice sharp edge
Removing the tabs will reveal the oval shapes underneath, which can be lifted from the centre.
Tweezers are handy for lifting up the tape
Don't worry if you have disturbed the resin, as it is still soft enough to level itself
Use a flame to heat any uneven patches of resin, as this will soften it further and help it to level again
Allow the resin to fully cure in a warm place for at least 24 hours before you handle it, or 72 hours before you use it
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