Hey guys I'm Matt with Walton Woodworking and today I'm going to show you how I
made this cabinet for our primary bath with shaker style doors and an adjustable shelf.
Tt's a simple build for the average diyer and I'll share the tools that
I'm using along the way and the links will be in the description below.
I grabbed the basic measurements of where the cabinet will be hung
and headed out to the shop to begin cutting down the material.
Once I cut the backer I assembled the carcass with pocket hole screws and
the backer is attached with glue and pin nails.
For the backer I'm using quarter inch UV coated Birch because I'll be mounting the
cabinet using French cleats on the side, so no structural support needs to come from the backer.
I cut a couple of French cleats for each side.
These cleats will make for easy mounting once I get the cabinet inside.
When preparing to make cabinet doors you want to
consider the type of hardware and overlay you'll be using.
The stiles are the vertical pieces on each side and the rails are the
horizontal pieces that fit between the stiles.
I cut the rails and stiles from the same material as the face frame,
which is three quarter inch Poplar.
The outside of the cabinet will be painted and Poplar
is an inexpensive option for painted surfaces.
You'll see that I marked the fronts of each piece and make sure that
side is always facing down on the router table so the rails and stiles match up.
I'm using the Amana 55432 in-stile and rail bit set,
which is a shaker style door with a small bevel on the front of the door.
The great thing about this router bit set is that it can cut frame
stock from 5/8 inch thick to 1 and 1/8 inch thick material,
and includes various shims to perfectly fit oversized and undersized panels.
Plywood sheets rarely reflect their Imperial dimensions. For example this
quarter inch material actually measures 0.20 inches. Quarter inch MDF actually
measures 7-30 seconds so I can adjust the bits to match the correct thickness.
I like to run all of the grooves for both rails and
stiles so I can test fit the material thickness.
I grab a test piece for rails which will fit between the stiles
so I can measure the height for the next cutter.
After running the channel into all the pieces I swap out the rail bit
and adjust the height to match for the groove.
Make sure that the channels line up with the cutters on the bit and run a test piece.
The depth of the cutter needs to be adjusted slightly for this so I
make my adjustments and test another piece. Then I start routing the ends of the rails.
Dry fit everything together and cut the inside panel.
I glue up the panels and let them sit overnight before sanding and painting.
Since I made the cabinet three quarters of an inch thinner on
each side to account for the French cleat, I cover the bottom with a quarter inch
material painted on one side and attach using glue and pin nails.
This helps cover up the gap that would be visible on the bottom side of the
cabinet. I'm using European style hinges for these doors so I cut the pockets for
the hinges and install the doors to the face frame before hanging the face frame.
This helps me make sure that the gap is consistent around the entire frame and makes installing the
mounting plates easier than doing it when the face frame is installed on the cabinet.
Once the doors are attached to the face frame I bring the assembly in,
attach it to the cabinet with glue and pin nails.
The pin nails are small and hold the face frame in place while the glue sets.
Add some molding to the top of the cabinet to match the style
in our home. After caulking the gaps it was time to put the cabinet to use.
Thank you guys so much for watching. Again,
I'm Matt with Walton Woodworking. If you love this type of content make sure you
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