How's it going everyone I'm Landan with LMR.com and in this video, we're going to be installing
the engine bay portion of our SVE fuel system that is designed for EFI equipped Fox Mustangs.
All right, if you have found this video and have yet to watch the review or the installation of
the fuel tank, fuel pump and hoses, then I would recommend you go check out those videos first.
So to bring everyone up to speed our supply and return hoses have been run all the way to the
front of the car and passed through the opening behind the passenger side strut tower. This is
where the engine bay portion of our fuel system comes into play. We'll install the regulator,
the bracket, and our SVE fuel rails in this video. Now you will need to remove the upper
intake manifold to finish off the install. We went ahead and isolated a separate video for you
guys on how to do that so be sure and check out that video as well. For more information on how
to wire Aeromotive's heavy duty wiring harness, check out the video in the description. If the
car isn't safely supported via a-lift or jack and jack stands, go ahead and do this. With the upper
intake manifold removed from the car, wipe the mating surface on the lower intake manifold and
cover the ports with some masking tape. Within the engine bay remove the cap from the schrader valve
and depress the stem to relieve any fuel pressure. Place a towel under the supply line fitting.
Disconnect the return line with a half-inch disconnect tool.
Place a towel under the supply line and separate it with the 5/8 disconnect tool.
If you haven't already done this, disconnect the flex hoses from the hard lines that connect to the
fuel rails. Locate the flex hose and hard-line fuel connections near the passenger side
front frame rail. Use a 5/8 quick disconnect tool and separate the supply hose from the
hard-line. Use a half-inch quick disconnect tool and separate the return hose from the hard line.
Remove the hard-line support bracket that is secured to the passenger side valve cover.
The hard lines can now be removed from the car since they won't be reused.
Disconnect all eight fuel injector electrical connections.
Loosen and remove the four 8mm fuel rail retaining bolts. There are two per side.
Gently lift each injector out of the lower intake manifold. Whenever the injectors
are removed from the lower intake, lift the fuel rail assembly out of the car.
Place the fuel rail assembly on a workbench and remove the injectors from the fuel rails.
Whenever all the injectors are removed, thoroughly clean the o-rings and inspect for damage.
Of course, replace these if needed. Apply
some dielectric grease to each o-ring on the fuel injectors.
Before you assemble the rails take this time to flush out the fuel rails,
fittings, and hoses with compressed air to ensure the components are free of foreign material.
Verify that the plug installed in the front of the driver's side fuel rail is tight.
Be careful when tightening the plug because you don't want to dent or scar the aluminum.
Lubricate the o-rings on all of the -6an to 3/4 16 fittings. Install
one of the fittings into the lower port on the driver's side fuel rail.
Finger tight and then rotate until the fitting stops with a 7/8 wrench.
Install one of the provided 90-degree fittings and leave it loose.
If a plug is installed in the front port on the passenger side fuel rail,
go ahead and remove this. Now just a heads up, the passenger side fuel rail will not have an opening
on the underside of the rail. Install another three-quarter 16 to -6an fitting
into this port and tighten it down. Loosely install the 45-degree fitting.
Install a 3/4 16 to -6an fitting into the rear of either one of the fuel rails.
Loosely install a 90-degree fitting and then do the same for the other fuel rail.
Install the fuel injectors into the fuel rails in the same orientation as you removed them.
If you still have the factory distributor boot installed the fuel rail will more than likely
make contact but it isn't detrimental. Removal of the boot is optional.
Install the driver side fuel rail into the lower intake.
Position the two small spacers in between the lower intake and the brackets on the fuel rail.
This will properly space the rail to clear the distributor. Reinstall the bolts
and push down on the fuel rails while you fully tighten the bolts.
Install the passenger side fuel rail into the lower intake and
loosely install the previously removed bolts.
Push down on the fuel rail and fully tighten the bolts.
So back on the workbench, loosen and remove the two 964 socket head screws that secure
the pre-installed bracket to the regulator. Position the regulator onto the provided
bracket and reuse the small allen head screws. This will only install one way.
Lubricate the o-rings on the 3 -6an to an6 o-ring port fittings.
Install three of the provided -6an
to an6 o-ring port fittings into the three ports on the regulator.
Fully tighten these fittings with a three-quarter socket or three-quarters wrench.
Locate the EGR vacuum regulator solenoid mounted behind the passenger side strut tower.
Loosen and remove the two 8mm retaining screws.
Slide the regulator bracket behind the rubber isolator
and then reinstall and retighten the previously removed screws.
Back on the workbench, lubricate the o-ring and install a -6a to a three quarter 16 fitting
into the large port on the distribution block. Hold the flats on the distribution block with a
large wrench and tighten the fitting with a 7/8 wrench. Lubricate the o-rings and install two
-6an to 9/16 18 fittings into the small ports on the distribution block. While
holding the flats on the distribution block, tighten each fitting with a three-quarters
wrench. Take the 18 inch and 24 inch supply hoses and work them until they are straight.
Loosely install each hose onto the two fittings in the distribution block.
Back in the engine bay, whenever we installed the supply and return hoses in our other kit,
I marked the return hose with a piece of painters tape to differentiate
the two. You can do this for either hose as long as you know which one is which.
Locate the long return hose where it passes through the opening behind the passenger side
strut tower. Neatly route this hose through the existing components in this area and towards
the middle fitting on the regulator. Take one of the 90-degree adapters and loosely install
this onto the middle fitting in the regulator. Loosely install the return hose on the adapter.
At the firewall, disconnect the two small vacuum connections at the check valve.
Carefully dislodge the harness clip securing the main engine harness to the firewall. For
additional working room, pull the supply hose alongside the firewall and towards the engine.
Loosely install the supply hose onto the single fitting side in the distribution block.
Feed the two short supply hoses towards the back of the engine near the firewall.
While you have the working room go ahead and tighten the fittings on the short supply hose.
Carefully route the supply hoses alongside the firewall and towards the 90-degree adapters
in the back of each fuel rail. The longer of the two hoses will install on the driver
side fuel rail and the shorter of the two will install on the passenger side. Loosely
install each hose onto its respective fitting. Position the distribution block so that you
can tighten the single supply hose coming from the rear of the car. Hold the flats
on the distribution block and tighten the supply hose fitting with an 11/16
wrench. Tighten each fitting on the 90-degree adapter and the hose with an 11/16 wrench.
Re-engage the harness clips back into the firewall and reconnect the vacuum lines.
Take one of the 48-inch return hoses and route it under the TF5 module from the driver's side.
Loosely install this hose onto the 45-degree adapter in the front of the passenger side
fuel rail. Route this hose alongside the top of the valve cover, around the two supply hoses,
and towards the fitting in the regulator that is closest to the engine. Take the second 48-inch
return hose and route it alongside the other hose except this one will connect to the 90-degree
adapter on the underside of the driver's side fuel rail. Feed the return hose from the driver's side
rail behind the accumulator and then up towards the fitting in the regulator that is closest to
the fender. Loosely install the hose onto the fitting and the regulator. Install a 90-degree
adapter onto the fitting in the regulator that is closest to the engine bay. Install the return
hose from the passenger side fuel rail onto the 90-degree adapter. Before tightening the
rest of the fittings use this opportunity to zip tie all the hoses the way you want them.
Whenever you have everything the way that you like,
fully tighten all the fittings that were not tightened previously.
Remove the tape from the hose.
Go ahead and reconnect the injectors.
Remove the 3/16 plug from the regulator and apply
a high-temperature thread sealant with PTFE to the threads on the fuel pressure gauge.
Thread the gauge into the port on the regulator. You'll first want to hand tighten it and then
you can use a 7/16 wrench to rotate the gauge until the wording in numbers are parallel with
the regulator. Before you reinstall the intake manifold use this opportunity to check over
everything in the engine bay and verify that all the fittings are tight. Check over hoses to make
sure they aren't close to exhaust components but ultimately just give it a solid once-over.
Now you can start neatly dialing in the hoses underneath the car. Start at the front and work
your way towards the rear. I use the included adel clamps to ensure the hoses are properly secured.
I then followed that up with zip ties to keep them grouped together.
Personally, I'd run over all of your fittings again and make sure they're tight.
It never hurts to triple-check. At this point, you can fill the tank with gas
and perform a few key on engine off cycles to prime the system and check for leaks.
If everything checks out okay,
go ahead and reinstall the upper intake manifold and its associated components.
You will need a vacuum source to connect to the fuel pressure regulator. The best
and easiest route to take is to extend the existing hose that was used for the factory
regulator or just use a new piece of vacuum hose and cut it to length. Once everything
is ready to rock and roll, start the car, set base fuel pressure, pull your application by
using the instructions provided with the regulator. After that you're good to go.
All right guys I'm going to recommend above-average mechanical ability for this fuel
system. Not to mention a good selection of tools and assistance from a friend is an added bonus.
Like anything we show you, please use a little common sense when installing aftermarket parts.
If you're unsure about something, stop what you're doing and give us a shout with any questions.
As always if you like this video, give it a thumbs up, subscribe to our channel
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time we release something new. While you're at it check out our other videos and you know what
to do by now, for all things Fox Mustang, keep it right here with the real enthusiasts LMR.com.