I'm thankful to surf these waves with no crowds
to be in Mozambique
and I'm thankful for the universe
I started writing in this journal one year ago
and I read it every day,
three things I'm thankful for and it makes me appreciate
and focus on the positive things in my life
I cannot do the drive without my snacks
I know, I used to do like that much surf trip with competing on the QSL years, so
it's been a really nice break for me to come here and surf good waves and just
enjoy and surf and not think about the competitive aspect.
This place is just magical and I'm just blinded by all the beauty of Mozambique
and I've been surfing this magical wave with only two people out
and it's been amazing
and yeah just crazy place
where I really feel like reconnecting with nature
and like reconnecting with myself too
and just living life simple with authenticity and I really like this
After a few days up north,
We came to Tofo
and that was so nice to see all the local here, surfing all the Mozambique young generation coming up
and how nice and stoked they were in the water and sharing the good vibes
I like how real the people are
and just the smile you share
and on the line up with the Mozambique local people
that was really awesome for me
and just stocked where I am right now
and I had so much practice so much good rides
that I'm yeah..
That's just awesome for starting the year!