Inseam pockets can add function and utility to most pants and skirts. They can be added
to existing clothing missing pockets or to new garments that you make. To make an inseam
pocket, you need two pocket bag pieces. One will be made of any thin fabric pocket material
and the other will match the garment fabric. You need a thin strip of fusible interfacing
approximately ½ in wide and a bit longer than your pocket piece. Here one pocket bag
template is a standard size seen in many sewing patterns. The other is a modified pocket bag
sized to fit a cell phone. Both of these pattern templates are free for you and available to
download and print in the video description. Modify them to fit your needs and preferences.
You need to fuse the thin strip of fusible interfacing to the front piece of your garment.
Line it up with the marks on your pattern or where you want the pocket to be. Press
firmly with the iron following the interfacing directions. Once it's fused, you're ready
to prepare the pocket bag. Lay the plain pocket piece right side to right side over the fusible
interfacing. Then draw a box from the pocket marks on the pattern that is approximately
12 cm deep. At the machine sew precisely along the line. Leave your needle down, pivot at
the corners. Be precise with your stitching. When you get to the second corner pivot and
turn to the edge to backstitch.
With your shears trim about 4 mm away from each of the side stitches. Remove all of the
middle fabric by trimming close to the inner stitching. Be careful to trim close but do
not cut any of the other parts of the garment. You want to cut very straight. Once you clip
the center piece then clip diagonally into each of the corners without cutting the stitching.
Be careful and precise.
Now flip the pocket around and carefully fold out the edges so everything is nice and square.
Use your fingers and take your time to roll out the seams and then press with an iron
to make sure the pocket material is fully folded on the back side. When you are finished
pressing, you will have the pocket on the rear side and then you are ready to topstitch
it in place. Topstitch by stitching in from the edge of the pocket about 5 mm and then
turning. This seam will be approximately 5 mm from the edge of the pocket opening. When
you get to the end, leave your needle down and pivot to the outside and backstitch.
Now we need to attach the other side of the pocket bag. This is how it will look in the
end, right side to the right side. Since you are using French seams you first need to put
the wrong sides to wrong sides and then stitch with an approximately 4 mm seam allowance.
Some instructions for French seams tell you to stitch a larger seam allowance and then
trim it. That is useful when modifying seam allowances on existing patterns. But it is
more work and more steps. By stitching precisely at 4 mm from the start you are ready to turn
your pocket bag and complete the other side of the French seam once done stitching. Be
careful and line up your pieces as you go. Manipulate the fabric as you go around to
keep everything lined up for your 4 millimeter seam allowance.
Your pocket bag is almost complete. Now turn the bag inside out. Use your fingers to roll
the seams to the outside all around the pocket bag. Make sure to get the seams completely
to the edge and then press flat. Take your time and work all the way around the bag.
Pay attention to the ends making sure they are completely turned and smooth. Now the
pocket bag is turned out and is read to complete the french seam.
Fold any of the Garment material out of the way so you do not accidentally capture it
in your stitching. Start at one edge of the pocket bag and stitch 6-7 mm away from the
edge. Make sure to capture the seam on the inside. Work around the pocket bag.
This is how the pocket will look when complete.
Now you need to attach the other piece of the garment. Line the pieces up with the wrong
sides together on top of the pocket. Stitch with a 4 mm seam allowance all the way down.
It should be off to the side out of the way but be careful not to catch the pocket opening
with your stitching. Stitch straight down the entire garment with the wrong sides together
Stitch past the pocket opening and backtack at the end.
Now the pocket is almost complete. You just need to turn the seams around and finish the
French seam. You can see the pocket bag on the inside with the finished french seam.
Fold your material around so the right sides are facing and carefully manipulate and roll
the seam to the edge just like you did on the pocket bag. If there is any excess bulky
material in the middle of the seam, now is a good time to carefully trim it away. Roll
everything out and press it nice and flat.
Now it’s time to stitch the last French seam. Stitch at approximately 6-7 mm all the
way down. Be sure that you do not capture the pocket bag. I like to back stitch right
at the pocket openings to reinforce the garment but it is not a necessary step. Continue down
to the end of the garment material and back stitch.
Press everything the direction of the pocket and then press on the top side as well to
complete the pocket.
French seams are very useful and easy to construct with simple tools. With this method all the
raw seam edges are captured and you don't need a serger or special equipment to finish
your seams. Inseam pockets with french seam finishes are rad, put them in your next sewing
project.