Hi there, Sandy here.
Welcome to another Friday Findings video at KeepsakeCrafts.net.
Some time ago I did a Friday Findings video on E6000 glue and I was asked by several of
you in the comments to please review other glues.
So today I'm going to talk to you about GS Hypo Cement.
So this is how Hypo Cement comes, in a little tube and the tube comes in a box and in this
case, you do kind of want to pay attention to the packaging because it gives you a lot
of really good information.
First of all, it dries clear and it stays clear.
It doesn't yellow and unlike Super Glue, it won't bond your fingers, which is nice.
It has a precision applicator, which we'll talk about.
It's good for hobbies, crafts, model building, jewelry and beading, which is what we're all
interested in.
Also fly fishing, watch crystals -which I found out, interestingly, is actually what
it was made for, is gluing watch crystals into watch bezels- plastic, glass, metals,
ceramic, optical and industrial applications, fine screw backing and general repair.
So when you take a look at your packaging, you'll notice that it's actually perforated
right here at the bend and if you open it on that perforation, you'll find that you
have instructions in four different languages, English, French, German and Spanish.
And one thing they stress is it's for non-porous surfaces.
If you have something that's porous like fabric, they have other versions that are better for
that.
"Liquid cement flows readily."
Yes it does!
More on that.
It won't damage surfaces, which is good.
It tells you to apply it to clean surface.
Always important with any glue.
Wait 10-20 seconds until it's tacky and then assemble.
Don't press the applicator.
Yes, more on that.
Sets in 10 minutes.
Allow 24 hours to dry.
Remove excess with rubbing alcohol.
They also mention acetone.
When cement is not in use, clean the applicator area and put the wire back in.
I'll show you that.
And they say to flatten the tube, don't roll it, twist it or bend it.
Store at room temperature.
So pretty good directions.
Good to keep.
I used to think these kinds of directions were optional, but I've learned they all have
a good reason.
So I tried a few different things as jewelers and polymer clay artists we might use.
I did polymer to polymer.
I did metal to polymer.
I did metal to metal.
I did some beads on polymer and I even did some polymer to glass.
And I followed the directions.
I wiped everything with an alcohol wipe so it was clean.
Let it dry and then applied the glue as they directed and I haven't tested any of these.
These have been sitting for 24 hours so you're going to see with me how they work.
So here's a polymer clay bead and a little starfish mold that I had made and one thing
before I applied this, I did sand the back of the star fish a little so just about 80%
surface area contact back here.
Okay, now that came off.
It took a bit of force, but it did come off.
I might need, it kind of looks like I didn't have as much surface area and interestingly,
this is still tacky feeling.
It could be me, that I put too much glue on, but that didn't stick as well as I would want
it to if I made this into a piece of jewelry.
Here's another polymer clay piece.
This is from Christi Friesen's book, Flourish, and this is her stained glass technique.
And I just glued this little over lapping bit together, the leaf and the flower and
you know what?
Those are pulling right apart too.
Alright, well let's take a look at the beads.
See the beads are popping right off.
Somebody on Amazon on the comments and questions mentioned that they were very disappointed
that things came apart after 24 hours, but that after about two weeks, they had a very,
very strong bond.
So that might be something to keep in mind.
Alright, let's try the glass on polymer.
I wasn't going to do this one and then this one had fallen off.
When I made this, after I made it I actually popped all the pieces off and put them back
on with Super Glue, but this one still fell off and that one came off pretty easy too.
Hmm.
Alright, well, let's try the metal.
Here's metal on polymer and all of these are coming right off.
I think, alright, now this one I had to dig my fingernail under and you can, could you
hear that.
I think it's still wet.
I don't think 24 hours is enough time to cure it.
Yep, that one's dry.
That one is completely dry.
This one I can just hear, you can almost see little strings of the glue that are not completely
dry.
So I'm kind of disappointed in this.
I don't think I would get these same results with Super Glue.
Alright, let's try the metal on metal.
No.
So GS Hypo Cement definitely not cured after 24 hours.
A lot of folks use this for jewelry making, for sealing knots and such, but I would say
you're going to need definitely more than 24 hours.
I'll have to glue all these pieces back on and I'll do the test again in like two weeks
and then we'll see how strong these pieces are.
So how do you use this stuff?
Well, one common complaint and one I had problems with is that when you pull the top off and
it just pulls out.
It doesn't twist.
This starts to ooze immediately.
Can you see that droplet of glue?
Right away it starts oozing and it doesn't stop and I looked it up on line and the manufacturer
recommends while you're working with it you put it in a small jar that will hold it upright
and they suggested that you put a sponge soaked in rubbing alcohol or acetone over the point
and that will help keep it from oozing.
I just put a baby wipe over it and that worked just fine.
Now the first few times I used this, so much came out.
What a mess!
But what the directions say is you don't hold it the way I'm holding it here.
You hold it right up here, right near the nozzle.
You're not putting very much pressure on it at all.
If you press on it down here because this is so fine, just a little bit of pressure
is going to cause a lot of glue to come out.
So I'm going to just re-glue this.
In fact I'm going to re-glue all of these and then wait two weeks and see what happens.
You want to make sure you clean the whole thing really well because like I said, this
cap is not a twist off.
It just pulls off so there's really not much opportunity to get any force going there.
You need to be able to pull it off and then this can be tricky.
To get this little needle in that little hole, the best way to do that is to take your finger,
put it right up against there and then that will help you guide it.
There and there you go.
So here we are back again.
It has been two weeks since the clip you just saw and like I said, I put these pieces back
together and let them sit for two weeks.
So now let's check out what kind of bond we have.
So let's see.
We're going to start with the polymer on polymer.
If you recall, this one popped right off and I am pulling on this as hard as I can.
I'm pushing on that.
That is not coming off.
So given enough time, that's a very strong bond.
Here's another one.
Polymer on polymer.
Thin pieces.
Okay, looks like I probably didn't use enough glue there and didn't have it bonded well.
So you can see that that was kind of stretched.
So it probably just needed to be weighted or clamped.
Being polymer on polymer, I suspect if I had done it properly, it would be as strong as
this one.
So how about this one with the pearls?
Okay, these are coming right off, but it looks like, oh, that's really strong.
Okay, you know what it is?
If you see what's left behind here, it's the coating.
So it looks like the glue is doing a good job, but the coating is coming right off so
that's something to keep in mind, that these little pearls are coated.
That one's on there good and tight and there's a fair amount of glue in there.
So it seems like this one's probably a combination of first of all the coatings come off.
So the coating is glued on there just fine, but then the rest of the pearl comes off.
So that's something to keep in mind about your materials and also probably operator
error that I seem to recall when I put these in that I was pretty quick and not super careful
about it.
Okay now this one I've been waiting for.
Metal on polymer.
Now that one just came right off and that one came off and that one came off.
Okay, not happy with that.
And metal on metal, popped right off, popped right off.
All in all, I would have to say I'm pretty disappointed in the performance of the Hypo
Cement.
It claims that it will work metal on metal, but I'm not seeing it.
So the whole idea of waiting two weeks came to me because of a comment somebody made in
a review that they found that after the time given on the Hypo Cement packaging that they
didn't have a good bond, but then they discovered just by chance two weeks later that the bond
was very strong.
And I wondered again if that was operator error, that perhaps we were putting too thick
a coating of the glue on.
I think you have to make it very, very thin.
So perhaps too thick a coating and it needed that extra time to dry.
That's entirely possible.
It also might be that I needed to scuff these pieces, these metal pieces, but depending
on your project, you might not want to have to do that.
So all in all, I'm not real impressed or thrilled with it.
If I was going to use any of these kinds of objects in a project, I think I would seek
out something else to glue them or a different way to connect them.
I generally prefer more mechanical ways of connecting rather than relying on glue.
So that's my two cents on the GS Hypo Cement.
So thanks so much for watching.
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