HI, I'm Eric from Rocky Mountain ATV/MC.com
And today I'm going to show you how to replace a clutch on an atv or a motorcycle.
To start with you are going to need a service manual. They'll give you the specifications and procedures you're going to need that's specific to your vehicle.
We're going to put in a Tusk Clutch Kit today.
It's always a good idea to soak the friction plates, overnight is best.
Go ahead and get the oil evenly on both sides.
On some bikes it's going to be necessary to remove the brake pedal. Other bikes you can just put the pedal out of the way.
To do this we're going to spread the brake pads.
And then push down on the brake pedal and wedge a screwdriver to hold that lever down.
We're going to go ahead and take off the clutch cover.
Of course you'll need to have the oil drained before you take off the cover.
On some machines, especially a lot of the later 4-strokes you have to take the entire side case off. It doesn't have just a clutch cover.
With the bolts removed we can go ahead and take the clutch cover off.
This is a great time to inspect our gaskets.
Some models have o-rings, others are actually gaskets. You'll probably have to replace it.
We're going to take the pressure plate off by loosening the bolts in a criss-cross pattern.
Now we've got the bolts, there's springs right behind them. Sit those aside.
We're going to take the pressure plate off. When you do this, there should be the lifter.
On some models there is actually a ball bearing the sits in the bottom of that so watch out for that.
Next we're going to take the plates out.
Some machines may have jutter springs or cushion rings.
If you're reinstalling an OEM clutch these will need to go back in so pay close attention to how these were positioned.
Jutter springs or cushion rings will not go back in with most aftermarket clutch kits unless the instructions say otherwise.
On this particular Tusk Kit they will not go back in.
Now is a great time to inspect the outer basket and inner hub.
If there's any grooving it will actually make the clutch feel grabby.
If there is excessive wear it might be necessary to replace both items.
Okay, now we're going to go ahead reinstall the clutch plates, and you always start with a friction.
And then a metal or steel, this could be steel or aluminum.
And just keep alternating until you get to the last plate.
And the last plate will again be, if you've done it correctly it will be a friction plate.
Now the lifter is going to go back on.
The pressure plate.
The springs and the bolts.
We're going to tighten these in a criss-cross pattern.
Approximately 7 to 9 foot pounds of torque. Refer to your service manual for exact specifications.
Clean off the sealing surfaces.
Put your clutch cover back on.
The specifications are normally about 8 pounds or torque for the outer cover.
Go ahead and pump your brake back up.
Now is a great time to fill the engine back up with oil and then we need to check our clutch lever free play.
You need about 3 to 4 millimeters of free play.
If you don't have free play and the cable is too tight it can cause premature wear of your clutch plates.
Once you do this you're all done.