Hello I'm Graham and I hope everyone's having a great day and welcome to this
second in a video tutorial series I am beginning for new users to the Panasonic
Lumix Bridge camera range.Now today I've got the Fz 300 330 but it's the
same with you if you're using the Fz 200 or the thousand or the 2500 it's so
narrow you to take better photographs using these bridge cameras now in this
particular video I'm gonna be taking pictures of the blossom on these trees
now to be fair it's the third week in April and by now we've got blossom on
trees the magnolias are out the cherries are out but at the moment in the UK it's
been so cold that these trees are about three weeks behind and this is the first
territory that are found in this Arboretum that's actually got any
blossom on and the rest of the trees as you can see in the video they're only
just beginning to come in to birds there's only a little bit of green in
the leaves so at the moment there's very little to photograph
I've seen some catkins further down the Arboretum so I'll try and get some
pictures of those but today primarily I'm going to try and take some pictures
of these cherry blossoms now they are white cherry blossoms and we should be
able to get a contrasting picture of those against the blue sky well at the
moment the Sun is only just making an appearance over runes and more so
there's no sunlight on this tree whatsoever at the moment which is a good
thing because I don't want the Sun to be burning the petals if I do need to add a
bit of accent light I can use a pop-up flash to define the stamens in the plant
petals with the camera set to aperture priority mode I've got my ISO set to 100
and with an aperture set of 3.2 it's given me an exposure of about a
twenty-fifth of a second now with image stabilisation that's fine a handheld but
with any motion in that blossom by lit by the breeze we might not be able to
get a sharp picture so I might have to increase the ISO to at least 200 or 400
to give me that one or two stops difference to enable me to get a faster
shutter speed but we'll see how we go with that if I am struggling then
obviously I'm going to be using the flash because of the flash exposure it
will arrest the motion in those petals I'm going to take the first picture I'm
going to try and find a cluster of these blossoms which gives me a nice try
the shape or an arch so give me a bit of a better composition in the images so
I'm gonna try and find one on this side of the tree there's a nice little
cluster here which is about a meter and a half away so I'm gonna try and set
those right but this particular shot I've zoomed out to an effective focal
length of about three hundred and forty millimeters I same about a meter and a
half away from that first blossom my exposure is one eighth of a second so
I'm going to take a shot of that and it looks sharp enough but I'll take a
second shot and now to add the accent lines I'm going to put the flush on so
remove the flat the lens hood so I don't get any shuttering from the lens itself
I'm going to raise up the flash and without any flash exposure compensation
I'm going to see what the lighting is on that particular blossom it's quite a bit
of Brie so the flash may help here
that's just added that little extra bit of light to the tree itself now the Sun
has come up a little bit and you can probably see that I've now started to
pick up a bit of sunlight so it's going to start to highlight some of those
blossoms against the sky so I'm going to try and pick up some of the blossoms
that are at the top of the tree of course that doesn't mean using a longer
telephoto setting I sell pop back the flash and
I'm going to go all the way up to 600 millimeters and capture that no because
I'm using ISO 100 I can actually take the advantage of using a zoom so I'm
going to go into Izu turn that on and I can use up to about one and a half times
before image quality starts to degrade
so I've gone into 900 millimeters now so that's one and a half times digital zoom
try and find a nice cluster against the sky
you got to move around a little bit to start and get a better view of those top
blossoms against the skyline of course the blossoms are swinging connect
substantially in the breeze that's at the top of the trees and taking quite a
few shots to make sure that I've got pinpoint sharpness then the Sun is just
risen some more and it started to pick up some of the petals on the lower
elements of the tree so I'm going to try and capture some of those now which are
against the blue sky so again I'm going to be zooming out to 600 millimetres to
give me that telephoto effect
let's try to pick up a composition that looks good
and again this the wind is going quite quite a bit up there
my one 500th of a second exposure should be enough to arrest that I can see we've
got these stamens in the middle of those flowers
Crissman shark now in my photo style setup I'm again using -5 sharpness of -5
noise reduction and the reason I do that is because the sharpening in standard
JPEG process into the camera tends to give some sharpen out facts so by
turning the sharpening down to minus five you can bring the sharpening level
to the desired to point in your post-processing and the game setting
noise reduction to minus five the way Panasonic and implement noise reduction
is to apply a small blur to the image and that destroys any of the fine image
so by turning noise reduction to minus five you getting rid of that blur filter
again you can reduce your noise if you've got any in post-processing but by
shooting at ISO 100 we're giving ourselves the best opportunity given
noise free images they can probably see the Sun has just come over Rivington
more there so it's giving me these long long shadows from the trees and
backlighting those daffodils quite nicely so I'm going to try and get some
pictures of those while the Sun is in this low position and now I'm moving to
get those stuff those
so I want the Sun directly behind them so it takes the translucency of the
petals I think I'm using a very long focal length I've gone all the way up to
500 millimeters for this shot if I wanted to accent the flower even more I
could use exposure value compensation to bring those petals out brighter compared
to the center of the flower so I'm going to put two thirds of an Eevee exposure
value compensation onto this shot and you can see the difference might just be
tending to slightly burn out so I'll go down to one-third again I'm f4 now just
know it's here on this tree is a lichen growing and the sun's raking across that
quite nicely so it's giving a nice 3d effect so I'm going to move in quite
close and use a telephoto setting to throw the background out of focus and
try and pick up the edge of that lichen against the background and see I've
moved in quite close I'm probably about 400 millimeters effective focal length
on the lens the backgrounds nice out of focus and the Sun is creating those nice
little shadows in the lichen so I'm going to take that photograph
looks to be an interesting composition here we've got two lines of trees which
are converging into the background there with a bit of the haze and the
background it looks quite nice with the long shadows across the image so again
I'm going to try and capture an image of this particular shot for the second shot
I'm going to stand off to one side so that the converging points are on the
intersection of two thirds over on the right-hand side of the image so I'll
just move the camera across and reposition it so got the intersection on
the right-hand side of the 2/3 and we should be able to get a better picture
nice shot with a crow flying through there well that's it for the short video
and I hope you found that useful if you're a new viewer channel please do
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next one good bye for now