Hello, John Talley here with partzilla.com. Today we're starting in on a new project. That project?
We're going to be doing a complete engine rebuild on our 2005 Honda CRF450R. Now to start this out,
we need to get that engine out, take it over to the tear down bench and break it all the way down. Now
just for fun, I want to show you the kit that I've chosen that we're going to use to rebuild this
engine, and what we've decided to go with is a kit from Wiseco called a Garage Buddy. And with this
kit, you get everything to do a complete rebuild starting all the way down at the crankshaft,
going all the way up to the rings on the piston. It is a very comprehensive kit with new bearings
and seals and gaskets and O-rings and pistons and rings-- I mean just about everything we're going to
need to get this engine back up and running in top condition. They even give you an hour meter so you
can keep up with how much time you're putting on your machine after it's been rebuilt. So now that
we've got this kit set out, let me go open up my toolbox and we're going to dive into this project.
Step number one: well we need to go ahead and get all the fluids drained out of this machine.
That means fuel, oil, and of course coolant. Let's start with the oil, and it's over on the other side.
Now our drain bolt is a 10 millimeter located right up under the shifter, but
before we move it, let's go ahead and pull the fill.
Make it easier for it to drain out.
Now to get as much oil as we can out of it, crank the engine over just a couple of times.
We'll let it finish draining and then we'll turn our attention to the coolant.
Now to get to the drain bolt for it, we just need to
pull off this little protective cover, and then it'll be an eight millimeter right at the bottom.
It looks like it's finished draining. We'll go and put that bolt in for the time being
just so i can take it all apart in sections here in a little bit.
Next let's step over and look at the fuel tank, and I'll show you how to drain it-- even though this
one's already been drained. So to drain the fuel, you'd want to turn your valve off. At that point,
disconnect the hose going down to the carburetor. Now this one's already been drained, otherwise
some would spill out, so you want to have a paper towel ready. At that point, go ahead and
connect a hose to the end of it, bring it down to whatever container that you're going to put it in.
Open it up, let it drain. Really all there is to it. Like I said, this one's already been drained.
So here's what's going to happen next: we're going to go ahead and remove the seat, the rear section,
because that makes it easier to get the carburetor out of there, the tank, then we'll drop out the
radiators. And at that point we'll be down to a few cable connections, electrical connections,
the the actual mounts for the the frame, and then it'll be ready to lift out. Now the seat's pretty
simple. Just a couple of eight millimeters we need to get out, one on either side, back at the back.
And lift it up, slide it back, there we go. Now for the tank, we basically have a bolt up top,
then there's supposed to be a strap here at the back-- which is missing so I need to
order another one-- and then we're going to lift it off as an assembly with the shroud
still attached so we need to disconnect from the frame and the radiator. And basically all of
those bolts are eight millimeter heads. It looks like there's a washer missing in there as well.
I just need to remove that bolt for the petcock.
Actually on this machine, it's already been disconnected from the hose going to the tank.
You can lift it out still attached.
Then we can lift the whole thing out.
There we go. The breather wasn't even attached. Imagine it was building up a little bit of crank
case pressure there. The uh, the breather line was actually getting pinched over here under the tank.
I think this machine's had a really tough uh,
former life. What we're going to do next is just remove the entire fender
as an assembly. So we've got four bolts up front going to the frame, it's going to be 12 down low.
I'm going to the six millimeter Allen.
That wasn't very tight. It makes me a little suspect of the threads back in there. That's
really loose. But before we remove that, let's reach in, go to this Philips
right here at the base of the back of the carburetor.
Now let's finish removing this and that whole rear section should come out. Just
have the exhaust sticking out like an appendage. It's a neat thing about race machines: modular.
Next let's focus on the exhaust, and we're actually putting on a whole new system. This one's been
a little bit beat on. Yeah, I don't think the power curve cares for that dent there too much. So
get the slip on off, then it looks like we've got a 10 there and a couple of 10s at the
head pipe. That should be all it needs to split apart and release.
Hopefully this won't fight us too bad. These have a tendency of corroding and rusting.
The ones for the head pipe, there's two 12-millimeter nuts. That's it.
Yeah, I think somebody's done some creative welding on this one.
Yeah that's not from the factory. A couple of cracks here and there.
This machine's been so abused. Next I'm going to focus on getting the radiators removed.
So let's go ahead and break it loose from the water pump. Do this side first, and then we'll
jump over and do the left side . Now I'm betting these hoses have been on there for a while,
and they're going to be a little bit ornery to break loose. But let me show you a trick on that.
Just grab it where the clamp was. You don't have to put a lot of force on it. And just
break the seal loose... for the most part. Now we should be able to lift
it off without too much effort. Now be prepared: there still may be some coolant
in the system, so go ahead and have your drain pan under it when you lift it off.
Yeah, a little bit more.
next let's reach in, take off one of the top clamps.
There it goes. Now let's reach over and get that one at the bottom.
All right, it should pull off when we get that other one removed.
That'll do it for the hoses. Now we just need to finish unbolting it from the frame, and there's two
eight millimeters: one down low and one up top. And we're just going to push these little vanes back.
Now is it absolutely necessary to remove the radiators for this? No, but I want you to be
able to see what I'm doing, plus I'm going to pressure test these to make sure they're okay
because let's face it: this machine has been through a lot. There she goes. And there's just a
overflow hose which it does not want to route up, so we're going to disconnect the overflow tube
from the radiator itself. Now see if we can get that one to release. There we go. Now let's head
over to the other side, unbolt the other one, and that'll do it for the cooling system. There is one
one more hose I need to get, and that's going to the front of the head. So let's break this one loose.
Looking at this one guys, this one's gotten really really hot. See how it's swollen up so much past
where it was clamped? And that is feeling really weak, so when we go to put this back together,
we're going to at least replace this one. The other ones, they look pretty good although I'm
going to go back and inspect them one more time. But if yours looks swollen up like this,
it's time to go ahead and replace it. Because it's not if, it's when it's going to break loose there.
Go after these two on the front.
Now let's go ahead and get the carburetor disconnected. On the side I need to loosen
up another clamp. I'll tell you what, we're just going to take off this hose. Yeah, plus that's
just about as hard as a brick, so I think it's time for a replacement on that as well.
Now all the vents are already pulled up, so we should be able to pop it back
off the intake and then bring it up. This is a TPS switch if memory serves. Let's get the vent hose off.
There we go. Then what we'll do is we'll just zip tie it
next to that little holder for the front brake line. Getting closer guys.
Disconnect our cable for the stator and probably a crankshaft position.
Now let's go ahead and disconnect the clutch.
Push that boot back where we've got some working room. We're going to need to loosen up
the play on it where we can wiggle it out of there.
And the adjustment screw is not adjustable anymore, so add that to my parts list.
Yuck. Now the way this should have happened guys, I should have been able to take the
adjuster and screw it all the way in to have that in line with the split. And then you should
have been able to easily pull the cable, bring it around, and then drop it out of the lever.
This one wouldn't even let you bring the adjuster in anymore, so what I had to do
is actually grab the cable. And the way I did it is I went ahead and engaged the clutch
and put pressure on the cable, and when I released the clutch I let it that
pressure follow me out and that gave me enough distance to then get the cable out of the split.
But I'd say this cable is pretty much done too, so I'm going to put that on my parts list.
Now we can go in and disconnect this. There. Now to give us a little bit more working room,
I've got the course-- the coil cap pulled off the spark plug. We're going to reach in here
and just remove the coil completely to where we've got some more room to negotiate
the engine out of the frame.
Because even if you could get the engine out with it in there,
chances are you're going to damage it. So why not just go ahead and get it out of the way?
Of course the top one has a 10 on the other side, just a nut. There we go. Now you have the ground
wire that was here, and then the trigger that was right there. Get this other cover out of the way.
Now at this point I'd be telling you to remove your chain, but this one already
has its chain off. If it's a master link, you just remove your master link and then
pull it out. And if it's an endless chain, then you'll end up having to
press out one of your pins to get it out of there. So now we can concentrate on the
engine mounting bolts, and we'll need to support this temporarily so the machine doesn't collapse.
That should do it. Let's start off by getting out the uh, the top ones. There's gonna be four
12 millimeter bolts up top, two on either side. The upper motor mounts... All right guys, to get this one,
it's a 14 millimeter bolt
on one side and a nut on the other.
And here we go.
There we go. Fair amount of corrosion in here, guys.
That'll need to get cleaned up a little bit. It was getting close but uh, it hadn't frozen up yet.
Now let's get those other two 12 millimeter bolts out of the other side.
Now let's get the the brake pedal out of the way, because it won't clear the swing arm bolt.
May need a little bit of grease in there. Dry to the bone. Then we'll do the swing arm.
22 millimeter here, guys. If the brake pivot looks that bad, can you imagine what the swing
arm is going to look like? I guess we're going to find out here in a second. I'm betting bad.
Afraid of that. Yeah, this is where the fun's gonna begin. Because the harder I hit with this,
the more it's gonna mushroom the end of it because this is tapered, it'll just break loose.
Marring up our frame. Don't do this to yours.
I think that broke it loose.
No she has not moved yet. I guarantee you this thing's corroded in there. Um
hmm.
All right this is probably gonna mushroom it anyway, but we gotta do what we gotta do.
Oh yeah, looking good, isn't it guys? It may have been a little while since this has been apart.
Those bearings in there, I'd say they're in need of replacement. Just a theory.
But I think we saved it. I'm sorry. All right guys, I think we're down to
a couple more bolts and she will be ready to wiggle her way out of there... hopefully.
Not quite the battle we had on the swing arm, which is a good thing.
Go ahead and disconnect the top of the shock mount.
Swing it back.
All right, so we're going to go and get that kickstarter handle out of the way.
That wasn't on there very tight.
All right guys, we only have one more little thing to get out of the way, and that's the gear shift,
and it's held in by a 10 millimeter bolt. So what we're going to do guys, last but not least,
let's lift it up, turn it in, rotate it 90 degrees, and then it comes out this direction.
Let it sit there for a second.
Well all right guys, there you go. She's out of the frame. I'm out of breath and evidently really out
of shape. Well that's going to wrap it up for this video. Next we're going to start tearing this down
because like I said, we're going to rebuild it from the crankshaft all the way up. Now if you
want to be notified as we go through that process, why don't you hit that subscribe button. You'll get a
notification that we've completed that video and you can give it a look. If we've already completed
the whole process, you can reference this unit's playlist and then pick out which section you may
need me to help you walk through, depending on what you're doing to your machine. Well listen,
if you have any comments or questions, just leave them in the section below and I'll do my best to
answer them. And if you need any parts or tools for your machine to help get this far, why don't
you check us out at partzilla.com and we can get you taken care of. We do want to say thank you for
shopping here with us at Partzilla, and we will see you in the next video. Y'all have a great day.