If you saw our short film, the bounty, you know, that James
got himself frozen in Carbonite.
We were going to thaw him out afterwards, but Ian thought he could use the break.
He looks pretty happy, doesn't he?
It's like he never left.
Let me show you how we did this.
What if we freeze James in Carbonite, you know, like Han
Solo in the Empire Strikes Back.
I mean, surely we have the technology to do it by now that movie came out ages ago.
It's basically ancient.
So, I guess the first step is to go out and find some carbonite.
Not quite.
Oh, carbonite.
Exactly what I'm looking for.
Okay, okay.
In case you haven't guessed yet, we're not actually going
to freeze him in pink foam.
This isn't really a make a real episode. Did you notice?
There was no Make It Real intro.
I guess you could say this is just a prop, or an extreme
cosplay. Sounds easy, right?
Probably not.
The first step of the process
is to capture James in three dimensions, and we're going to
do that in two different ways.
The first way, photogrammetry using something as simple as a DSLR, the
way to do photogrammetry is to take multiple images of your subject in a 360
pattern, then load it up into a software
that uses a specialized photogrammetry algorithm to recreate the 3d model.
The second method for recreating James at 3d is going to be using
something like a 3d camera, such as the Zed camera back here.
The Zed camera use this two cameras to capture two separate
offset images, then lay them on top of each other to create a depth map.
We got two methods of scanning.
Let's see which one works best.
I've just imported all the photos I took of James.
The next step is to let the software do its magic.
For the photogrammetry, we're going to be using an open source software called
Meshroom.
As we were doing the depth scan,
I realized that we were losing a lot of detail, so I decided
to just use photogrammetry.
So the photogrammetry looks good.
I'm going to take this model, clean it up, send it to Dave.
And he's going to program the paths into the robot.
To cut out this foam, we're going to be using a KR20 from KUKA robotics, as well as
a liquid cooled spindle from Pushcorp.
This spindle just has a wood routing bit in it that it spins at 20,000
RPM to be able to cut out the foam.
The first thing we need to do is tell the robot where this
tool is on the end of the arm.
Easiest way to do that is just get a point out in space and have the robot touch
the tool to that point at four different angles.
If it knows all the positions that it used to put the tip in the same
spot, it can figure out exactly where it is on the end of the arm.
Next, we need to take the calibrated tool and touch off on the foam so that
the robot knows exactly where the foam is and where it needs to be running the program.
All right, that should do it.
Let's go.
It took about six hours, but it's all done.
There's a few problems where the different layers of foam were glued together
and the glue didn't hold all that well.
It'd be better if we had a solid piece of foam to cut through,
but we'll just have to glue some of those fingers back on.
Next we're going to have to give it a coating to make it look like carbonite.
All right, so I've cleaned up the foam as best I can.
Now we're going to coat the entire thing in a rubber polymer to give
it a nice, consistent finish
that looks like Carbonite let's get started.
This is probably to get messy.
Oh look at that.
I think I'm happy with how this looks.
So once this dries, we just have to make a nice frame for it.
And bam, we've got me frozen in Carbonite.
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Hey, I'm Henry I'm a co-op here at Hacksmith Industries
and today I've been tasked with making the case for our Carbonite.
We're going to start off by making a frame out of wood, and then in
classic Hacksmith Industries fashion,
We're going to be covering it in metal.
Finally, we're going to add some details to the electronic panels to
make it as film accurate as possible.
Let's get into it.
I'm hoping the thing fits.
Cause the wood does bow and stuff, so we might need to like,
make sure it gets in there.
You know?
So first I'm going to make some pilot holes,
then I'm going to screw the frame together.
I didn't do this right.
We gotta do that again.
I, this is supposed to go on the inside.
W-why we capturing this, cut the film.
Alright,frames done.
Just gotta make sure it fits James.
And then we're moving onto the sheet metal.
I bet it won't.
All right. It looks like it'll fit.
Let's get onto the sheet metal.
All right.
These look great, onto bending.
Ok. We're going to use this box brake to bend our sheet metal.
So the problem with these edge bends
is when you start bending, runs up against the other side of the frame.
So we need to do is take this out of the break, go to a table and just bang it
the old fashioned way with a hammer.
So what I've done is I've attached a little bar stock up top, attached to this thick
metal table, and I'm going to use thick mild steel, just basically as a plate to
push it down and get that 90 degree bend.
It's pretty MacGyvered but that's what we do here.
It looks pretty good.
We're gonna do that four more times.
All right.
Before I go any further, I want to do a test fit.
Might not look like much right now, but you got to trust the process.
I'm going to get to welding these guys together soon and
everything should be flush
Um, I'm actually not feeling terrible about this.
I think the gaps are a little big, but I think they'll come out
when we ratchet them all together.
And of course do a little more hammering.
Thanks Chris for taking it together.
I've learned a lot now it's time for me to fill the gaps myself.
It's going to start smoking a lot.
Cause there's wood underneath.
All right.
Now that we got the welds done, I've got to grind all these mistakes away.
And there are a bunch of them.
All right. Now that we've ground down the seams.
We're gonna use an orbital sander to get the right surface finish
Now that the metal is done, I got to make some panels to fill in these cutouts.
I found some great reference material on a Star Wars prop building forum, where I
learned that the side panels are actually made from Volvo dashboards turned inside out.
Star wars fans have been making their own Carbonite frames using
this exact same methods since 1980.
The problem is even if I went down to a scrapyard and found a Volvo 3 43,
I would need to find eight of them.
And the side panels are such a hot commodity that they'd already likely be
ripped out with that in mind, I found some 3d models of the panels and we're gonna print them out
right here.
So obviously I'm not going to keep the prints this colour.
So we're gonna hit them with a few coats and metallic spray paint.
I wanna incorporate some electronics into this control panel to give our scifi tech
some life. I'm going to use an Arduino to control the LEDs and the seven segment displays.
To view the full schematic diagram, click the maker.io link in the description below
Uh, each one of these wires is connected to a port on the Arduino
with which I can code the seven segment display on the front.
With the control panel finished, it's time to mount it at all to the frame.
Perfect.
We've built a lot of stuff over the years.
From captain America's electromagnetic shield, to the world's first
retractable, proto lightsaber.
I even built Aquaman's Trident.
Okay.
This one was a little weird.
Fact of the matter is, building all these crazy projects
leaves me no time to build PCs, and we need a lot of PCs around here.
So why not let Microcenter do it for you?
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Not only that, the tool also ensures compatibility between selected components.
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You can have one of the pros at Microcenter build it for you.
If you check out Microcentre using my link below, you'll get a coupon
for a free pair of Bluetooth Headphones.
Sorry, was just lost in his eyes.
Anyway.
Uh, we got to give James
a little coat of paint to give him that real Carbonite look, let's get into it.
So I mixed this acrylic with water and we're gonna use it as a wash,
that's just going to weather the top of the Carbonite.
With the pain finished it's time to put it all together.
That was a fun build.
Big thank you to David Armory for lending us the KUKA robot to make this happen.
Make sure to check out his channel and subscribe.
If you'd like to see more robot arm videos.
Don't forget to enter our contest for the limited edition, only 10 ever made,
Haskar.
All you have to do is fill out a survey to be eligible to win.
Follow the link in the description below to enter now.
If you want to see more behind the scenes content of our Hacklorian series,
along with a ton of other fun stuff, make sure to check out Hacksmith Vlogs.
We would do weekly videos, on our daily Hacksmith madness.
Thank you for watching and subscribing, and I'll see you on the next one.