Let’s work our way through buttonholes.
There’s quite a few different ones that are on the machine, so like 51, 52, 53, all
the way through 63 here.
Your standard one that you’re used to see, the first one.
The next one is a little bit more delicate.
It’s not so think on the satin stitches.
Fifty-three is a stretch.
You’ve got a rounded-tip for like jeans, a keyhole when you have a shank button, a
straight stitch buttonhole.
Those are really nice on vinyl and leather suede; and then an heirloom buttonhole with
a very gentle blanket-stitch look all away around it.
What we’re going to use is foot number 3A, and 3A is the foot that you’ll see on your
screen.
Next, you have a red line that can be adjusted to get your first buttonhole the perfect length,
and then that length will be repeated over and over as many times as you need to go.
If you have a button, for example this one here.
If we measured it out, that one is 20 millimeters long.
We could set that for a 20-millimeter long buttonhole, and then we’ll go ahead and
put this on.
Now, you’ll notice this foot does not have a little bit of a groove in it to slip that
first thread down below.
There’s a couple ways you can do it.
You can go ahead and put the needle down through the sewing area, and then pull the thread
out, and then put the foot on.
That’s a fun little way to do it.
Notice which direction I’m tipping it in from.
I’m tipping it in from the right side.
That’s a lot easier because you’ve got the little sensor here are also on the right.
Now for your bobbin case, what we want to do is we’re going to alter the tension a
little bit.
In your manual, it’s going to show you the hole in your bobbin case finger.
We’re going to go ahead and take that.
I’m going to trim that in.
It got a fluffy end here.
We’re going to take it in from the inside out.
It’s like that little bit of an angle, so just angle it in, and you’re just going
to thread that through.
What that’s going to do is pull your stitches to the backside.
I love to do that for decorative stitches also because then I don’t have to worry
about bobbin thread coming up, and for buttonholes, it’s going to make it a lot prettier.
All you have to do is just put it back into the machine just like normal.
Use a little cutter on the side of the door, and then close your door.
That stitch will come up in the first time we’re doing it.
Right now on your screen, the machine again does not know what size you want to do, so
on your sample fabric, and the sample fabric should be fabric that is interfaced just like
your regular project fabric, or if it’s going to be have a little stabilizer underneath,
or just two layers of fabric like I’m doing here.
Where you want to start, that’s where you’re going to put the needle to begin.
Now, watch where the red line is.
There’s a red line that is coming with the needle towards the red mark we have on the
side of the foot because of the length we want it to do.
Just go ahead and let it come up together.
You will need to manually stop it.
That’s a few stitches short, so just keep going until those two red lines meet.
Touch reverse button one time.
That is all we have to do.
Now, just step on the foot control.
Now, here’s what’s going to happen.
It’s going to stitch backwards back to the top.
Tuck at the top.
Now, do you know why it goes backwards?
That is because you want both satin stitches coming the same direction.
Bernina is known to have that pretty look.
Sometimes when you have satin stitches go on one direction and then the other, they
have a different look, so these are identical.
It will come back down to where we turned around.
It will tuck at the bottom, and end with a couple locking stitches.
Just keep your foot on the foot control until it comes to a complete stop.
Now when you lift this foot up, watch what’s going to happen.
It’s going to reset, so don’t lift that up in the middle of a buttonhole if you need
to fix something because it’s going to bring you back to the beginning part.
We take a look at our buttonhole.
Maybe cut it open, and test our button through it.
Now on our machine screen, it says, “Auto.”
That means that, that length is programmed in, and we can just go ahead and start to
stitch as many times as we need buttonholes to be done.
Just have to put it right where we have it set to start with, and they’ll be exactly
the same every time.
That is how easy buttonholes are.
Maybe people are like, “Oh, I don’t like buttonholes.”
I’m like, “Well, okay; but check out how easy it is on the Bernina 550.”
Reset it, and then again, being that those stitches were locked at the beginning and
end, you can come in nice and close, and clip those end stitches, so nothing is showing.
Look how pretty those are.
Now as for the ones, let’s go ahead and do like the keyhole one.
That’s 56.
Once again, we need a new length before we start.
I’m going to shorten it up just so it doesn’t take so long.
We’ll start.
Now, a keyhole buttonhole is going to start with just a straight stitch.
Many people are like, “Whoa, it’s not doing the satin stitch.”
That’s okay.
Down till the red lines meet, touch reverse button one time, and let the machine finish
out this satin stitch around the keyhole.
It will go back to the beginning, and then it will finish off the other leg.
This is nice for a button that has a shank to it because now it has a place for it to
actually sit when you cut it open.
Usually like on a coat, it’s done this way, and your button will sit right into that little
opening there.
Let’s do one other one, 53.
That one is going to be like the stretched buttonhole.
It has a little excess down the way.
It’s a little bit more open, but it will stretch with your fabric.
You’ll see when it’s done what we’re talking about.
Once again, touch the reverse button to set the length.
Each time you pick a new style of buttonhole, you will need to reset the length.
There is a way to go ahead and set that to memory too.
We’ll show you that at the end.
There we go.
All right.
You can see that one has a little bit more open.
How about our straight stitch 159, straight stitch buttonhole?
Don’t blink.
This one goes fast.
We’ll just tell it, turn around, and up, and back, and a lock stitch at the end.
This one is done also.
See how pretty that is.
Now, there’s another way to get even a prettier buttonhole yet, and that’s to do a corded
buttonhole.
I’m going to go ahead and take some cord.
A gimp cord or something of that caliber here.
Take your buttonhole foot off.
You can do this with it on, but just to show you.
On the back, there’s a little bit of a heel right in the middle.
Take your cord, and divide it in half, and then wrap the cord over that heel.
This is a corded buttonhole, so we’re going to put the cord up the toes.
Let me go ahead and put it in here, and I’ll show you.
There we go.
There is one of them in.
The other one.
Okay.
It’s a little slippery.
Here we go.
I’m trying to do this all at once here, so you can see it.
Okay.
One cord goes over that side, and then this one.
See how it just goes right over that little front toe, and there’s a little groove that
you can just set it in, and it will hold it.
Once it’s in there, you don’t have to worry about it.
See how perfectly parallel that cord is held from the tip to the front?
That’s because now it’s perfectly aligned for the satin stitch to come over that cord.
All we have to do, we’ll go back and do our standard buttonhole.
Say 51.
You can also put zero on your keypad because that is pictured with a buttonhole as well.
I’m just going to make sure these are in nice and tight here.
You can do it, like I said, with the foot on the machine, but just so you could see
what I was doing.
Okay.
Now, just go ahead and start to stitch.
I didn’t pull that thread through, so I’ll just clip it here.
Okay.
Once again, since we picked out a new buttonhole, let’s see.
Actually, it could actually remember that last size.
Yeah, it did.
Okay.
Because it said “Auto” on the screen, and I haven’t cleared it out.
All right.
Look at what this is going to do.
It almost makes this buttonhole a little bit more raised, and it’s really pretty when
it’s done.
Talk about securing it.
Okay.
Finish up there.
Just go ahead and unhook the front, and hook it from the back.
It will come off that easily.
Now, take a hold of one of the cords and pull because it wasn’t stitched over at all.
It was perfectly aligned.
It will draw itself through.
Just pull it, so the loop disappears at the top, and then you can come in, and trim those;
or if you want, you can take a little needle and thread, and weave those down in to your
fabric.
Most of the time, I’ll just trim them because it’s not going to really go anywhere.
They’re very secure.
If you have any little tails left, just give it a little pull, and they’ll disappear
in to the corded buttonhole.
See how pretty that looks?
That is really super easy.
Now, I can show you how we can save a length of a buttonhole into the memory.
We went ahead and went back to stitch number 53, one of the buttonholes we did on our sample.
It says, “Auto,” so that means that there is a length already in there.
If you would like to save that length, so that means after you turn off the machine
and turn it back on, it will remember that length, you just come over here and touch
“OK”.
You can a different length for each buttonhole.
Now, if you do a new length, and then touch “OK”, it will overwrite the previous length,
and then keep that new length in memory which is nice.
If we go back to buttonhole number 51, that was auto, so we have the length that was at
20-millimeter one that we started off with.
We touch “OK”.
Now, it’s in memory.
If I go to stitch number 1 and come back to stitch number 51, there’s the one saved
in memory, and ready to repeat that length for you