I know I know you all want to see the cr250 but the nice thing about having
two project bikes going at once is that while you're waiting on parts for one
bike you can switch it up and work on the other so the tubes for the CR250
we'll be back next Tuesday or Wednesday all finished up so we're getting really
close another week or so and we back to work on that bike but in the meantime
we're gonna do some work on Haley's XR 80 we will be powder coating the engine
covers today so stay tuned alright here's the plan for today be pulling off
the engine covers gonna be doing the flywheel cover valve cover clutch cover
and while I'm at it there's a couple more things on the bike that are kind of
nasty here so I'll be powder coating the kickstand as well foot peg mount I won't
be doing the pegs because we got some new wider pegs coming for it
be doing the engine mount skid plate triple clamps come over to this side and
I think I'll be doing the brake pedal kick starter and brake rod as well and
maybe a couple other things that kind of pop up as I work on the bike so a lot of
stuff being coded today step one drain the oil alright don't let me
forget to put oil back in this thing once we're all finished up now for step
two I'm gonna pull everything off around the clutch cover so the Kickstarter foot
peg and mount brick pedal brake rod and the clutch cable
yeah damn crusty I have to get a breaker bar on this thing
all right now with the clutch cover off I'll need to shave all the gasket
remnants off and pull everything off the clutch covered thankfully the engine
looks really clean internally no sludge or buildup anywhere and the filter was
super clean as well so I don't think we'll need to tear into this thing at
all
now we've got a whole pile of parts off the bike to be coated the next thing
we're going to go after is the valve cover it looks like we're going to pull
the tank off for that and then on this side I'll be ripping off the flywheel
cover and footpeg mount and kickstand as well
I kind of forgot about this cover it's got a big chunk missing out of it but
thankfully got a new cover sitting on the shelf so we'll go ahead and powder
coat that one now the last thing we got a checkol is the triple clamps looks
like they're kind of hard to get to you but in reality it's pretty simple
just slide the forks out of the triple clamps along with the wheel and then pop
the handlebars out of the upper clamps and the triple clamps basically just
slide right out of the frame
all right so here's the deal with the bottom triple clamp the lower
bearing needs to be removed before we do any type of coating so I got that popped
off and I figured while I was at it I would upgrade the steering stem bearing
z' with this set from tusk so this is the old-style bearing just
got a bunch of little B B's or little balls inside of a plastic cage really
crappy setup now I'll show you what the upgraded setup looks like so it's
actually roller bearings with a metal cage and you have to replace the race
that goes in the frame as well so this is a lot better setup than the previous
well here's everything that we'll be coding the next step is to clean it all
up over here in the parts washer
we're all cleaned up and the next stop is the sandblaster so inside the cabinet
I'm using a hundred grit aluminum oxide media we're all blasted up so we're
gonna drop this stuff into an acetone bath and follow that up with a preheat
through the oven now when you're doing powder coating you'll need a mask off or
plug areas that are sensitive to thickness scents powder does have some
build up and that would include the gasket surface on the inside the hole
for the kickstart seal dipstick hole and the hole for the clutch arm
and then when you're all finished up masking you want to poke a hole in the
backside that way the heat from the oven doesn't shrink the tape and peel it off
the gasket surface just pulled these parts out of the oven so that means we
are now ready to spray now as far as powder goes in color
we'll be going with a prismatic stone black this is the same color we used on
the rims for the XR 80 so let me give you guys something to think about here
so you spend all this time prepping your parts in order to powder coat them you
go through the sandblasting soaking them and acetone preheating them you know
pulling off the bike there's a lot of steps and if you go with a powder that
isn't quite up to par all that work is for nothing so my advice would be to
find a powder that sprays out and lays out really good and also is super
durable and also fits your budget as well so I've used powder from Eastwood
I've used powder from Powder by the pound many other companies and the one
that I like the most is prismatic always sprays out super good finishes awesome
and it is durable as heck so I will drop a link down below to you where you can
find this exact powder now it's time to load up some powder into this eastwood
gun and get to spraying
you'll notice the finish is pretty chalky it's literally just powder
sitting on top of the part so now we're ready to pop these in the oven at 400
degrees the kiram and while you're spraying you definitely want to garb up
so wear some gloves wear a respirator have an exhaust system like an exhaust
fan and I go the extra mile by wearing a tie vex you now once the part reaches
temperature which in this case is 400 degrees go ahead and check it with the
heat gun 420 so you're gonna give it an extra 10 minutes to really bake that
powder onto the part and one thing to keep in mind is you don't want to be
near the oven or breathing in too many of those fumes as the powder is curing
so take a step back from the oven or just leave the space completely when
those parts are in there
I'm really pumped on how this black powder-coat came out skid plates pretty
beat-up but you know what skid plate but the
powder sprayed out great cured smooth and not too glossy not too flat I think
it'll look really really good on the bike now what's cool about powder coat
is you can double up on the coating to make it last a little longer that's what
I did on these three parts here they get quite a bit of wear when they're on the
bike from boots from shifting and using the brake so I thought I'd add a little
extra thickness so how you add the second coat is when you're done spraying
the first coat and curing it you pull it out of the oven and spray the second
coat while it's still hot and then pop it back in the oven for the same amount
of time to cure that second coat now for the foot peg mounts and front engine
mount we'll be doing a little different color here this is called a silver
bronze from prismatic as well all right let's get to spraying all the mounts are
done looking pretty good so the color came out pretty much this is a gray very
basic color but I didn't want to go over the top with the color on the frame I
think this will fit really good now with all the powder coating done it is time
to move on to the next batch of parts so for this stuff we will be doing seracote
because of the tighter tolerances seracote is a lot thinner coating than
powder coating so it works better in areas where there's splines threads
we've got joints like on this arm and areas where we can't have any buildup
like where the forks slide through the triple clamps now the only areas we'll
have to mask off is on the stem where the lower bearing sits right there
and then also on the clutch arm where it slides through the clutch cover now at
this point all the parts have been soaked in acetone and baked through the
oven for the preheat process and now we're ready to spray so we will be going
with a graphite black seracote on these parts doing a lot of black on this bike
so seracote turned out sweet and at this point we are all done with coatings for
the day and we can move on to the next step with this bike now the first order
of business is getting this clutch cover back together and on the bike
so the clutch cover is all done turned out pretty badass really dig in that all
blacked out look so now let's get the engine ready for the clutch cover to go
on so we're gonna make sure there's no dirt on the gasket surface give that a
good wipe down can't forget this little plunger part that goes into the end of
the crankshaft got the oil screen then we've got two locating pins that go on
the crank case and it's very common for these to seize up so I like to put some
anti-seize lubricant on them and then on the gasket surface I like to put grease
so that way if I ever have to take this thing apart the gasket doesn't stick and
tear when I take it apart and then also the grease kind of helps keep that
gasket into place as I'm bolting things together and on goes the new gasket just
line it up with those locating pins kind of tack it down to that grease and now
we're ready for this sick-ass cover
time to pop on the Kickstarter but I've got a new rubber grip to slip on I'm
gonna use some sc1 to help slip that over there we go
started it was like wrestling a bear but we got this thing on looks even better
than new now see how it looks on the bike heck yeah man that looks fabulous I
think I look even better with the valve cover and flywheel cover on as well so I
thought while I had the valve cover and the flywheel cover off might as well
check the valve clearance so I'm gonna get this thing at top dead center on the
compression stroke there's a compression stroke right there
line up the marks and the spec is two thousandths of an inch for both intake
and exhaust that one clears that one looks good as well so we are good to go
I am really digging that color hard to go wrong with black huh once you go
black you never go back now there's one last thing we can do on the bike for
today and that is installing the bottom steering stem bearing now I've had the
triple clamp sitting in the freezer overnight that's why it looks a little
frosty trying to help shrink the met a little bit so the bearing slips on
easier you absolutely do not want to forget the seagull that goes underneath
the bearing put a little bit of grease inside the bearing you got to be quick
with this before the stem heats up and I've got a bearing installer tool this
is from a tusk so it has these little callers that go
over hopefully this one works yeah that's barely hitting on the inner
race of the bearing so I'm gonna have to be really careful putting this thing on
so we're gonna give this thing a few love taps of the hammer and hopefully
pound it right on got to make sure that seal is lined up with the bearing and
then when we reach the bottom you'll hear a different tone to the hit so
right there that hit it oh my god are you that
stupid I'm an idiot completely spaced on grease and the bearing before I pressed
it on so I'm gonna have to grease that bearing the get away if you're dumb like
me and you forgot to grease your bearing before you press it on you can actually
take the race and work the grease in that way that race kind of acts as a
press they'll press all that grease right into the rollers of the bearing
all right we're all greased up and ready drip nothing's gonna wrap up today's
video I appreciate you guys joining in on cams cooking show that's what it felt
like however but in the next video Hayley and I are gonna be tearing apart
the XR 80 completely down to the frame powder coating the frame and swingarm
and then putting the bike all the way back together so you want to stay tuned
for that see you guys next time take care