I swear it wasn't even 48 hours later after publishing the how to get rid of nutsedge
video at the DMOHQ lawn that I came back to my own lawn and noticed the same daggum problem.
I mean just look at the madness.
Fortunately, it's only located right here on this portion of the lawn.
So, there's not a whole lot that we have to tackle but I'm going to jump on it now so
that it doesn't become a problem in the whole yard.
Alright, so this is probably going to be a quicker video than normal because we've already
talked about how to get rid of nutsedge.
If you haven't seen that video, click that little "i" icon at the top of the screen.
But the difference between that video and this video, in the last video, I used an herbicide
that mainly does contact control, whereas today we're going to use one that should give
pretty good systemic control.
Now the herbicide I'm going to use in my Bermuda here to get rid of the nutsedge, I'm going
to use Dismiss NXT.
And the two main ingredients in it are Sulfentrazone at 31.77 percent and Carfentrazone which is
at 3.53 percent.
Now what I like about it, ya don't need a whole lot of it.
To knock out nutsedge like in my Bermuda lawn here, I only need .23 ounces per 1,000 square
feet.
Now how do you measure out .23 ounces?
Well, luckily this bottle comes with this handy little measuring top right here, where
it has broken down .115, .23, .34, those are the three most common measurements that you
need per 1,000 square feet to take care of a lot of weeds.
And yeah, it's got a pretty good list of weeds that it can control, so yellow nutsedge, like
what I have in my yard right now, uh, kylinga, clover, dandelion, and those are just a few.
If you want to see the full list, I'll leave a link to the product in the description box
below so you can go over to do my own dot com and read that.
There's no restrictions when it comes to reapplying this product but generally we tell people
to wait about two weeks between applications.
And also keep in mind that it can control sedges, specifically, for up to 60 days.
And like I said for most warm season grasses, you're only going to mix about .23 ounces
per 1,000 square feet to treat a lot of weeds.
So, let's get to it.
I know you see me using marking dye in just about every application that I make, and,
honestly I feel lost without it, but when you go to do spot treatments, I highly recommend
doing it so that you can really physically see where you sprayed.
Only mixing up a gallon because we're only doing spot treatment.
We're not doing a full blanket application.
So this one gallon should be plenty to tackle the problem over there.
So when you're spot spraying, I think I've covered this in previous videos but there's
no need to just saturate and drown the weed.
You just need to lightly spritz it, like so, and move on to the next and so on and so on.
So we'll just do that for this whole little area right here.
And done!
Like I said, this is going to be kind of a quicker video than normal just wanted to go
over this product and knock out this little problem I have here in the lawn.
But I'm curious, are these the kind of videos that you want to see more of?
Where we highlight one particular product for the lawn, go over the active ingredients,
the things that it controls, the mix rates.
All that kind of stuff.
Let me know.
Sound off in the comments section below.
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And as always, thanks for watching!