It's finally finished!
This is the C44KM.
I'm going to show you a very fast-forwarded version of the build I just did, and then
we're going to get it on the trail.
It really surprised me.
If you want to see just how well this thing goes, stick around!
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This is the WPL C44KM.
You might remember part 1 of this review I published back in early June – one of the
first videos I made for this channel.
This is a 1:16 scale model of the Toyota Landcruiser 40-Series ute.
Next to it here is the WPL C24 1:18 scale model of the Toyota
Hilux pickup – and one of these things is not like the other!
The C44 is closer to 1:16 scale, which is why it’s a bit bigger than the C24 here.
Ok, that out of the way, the build was on hold for quite some weeks while I waited for
a sufficiently warm and sunny day!
Spring is finally here in Melbourne and with it, a few days that were decent enough for
painting to come out ok.
Once the paint was down and the clear coat on, I was finally able to get this thing finished.
The axles were a fiddly affair and the clearances took a while to get right.
I’m not a huge fan of the way WPL addresses clearances, with these paper gaskets to get
spacing right – the alternative is for shims,
to move the pinion closer to the crown gear in the diff.
But with the WPL axles, the pinion already starts too close due to the way the axle is moulded,
so the gaskets are needed to space it out a little.
The system works, but it isn’t ideal.
I don’t know how it’ll last, especially if it gets wet.
Water will be hard-pressed to penetrate through if you’ve got it done up tight and there’s
enough grease inside, but still, a paper gasket on a diff plate makes me a little uneasy!
For now, it’s together, it’s snug and it works smoothly.
So I’ll just ignore it until something goes on strike.
It took a little while to work out the orientation of the diff gears, which also are straight-cut
and made of brass.
You wouldn’t want to run too much power through any of these components as they're
just not made for more than the lowish-torque of brushed motor power.
But as long as you stay within that intended design envelope, they’ll be durable enough.
The bearings are not sealed, of course – so stay out of water and you’ll be fine.
Or, get sealed bearings and retrofit them and you’ll be ready for wet running.
I think dusty conditions would also wreak havoc on these bearings, so be aware that unsealed
bearings are for dry and clean running and you’ll be fine.
For the total price of this model, which was around
$100 AUD, you can’t really complain!
The value is definitely there.
Getting the top plate together is easy enough.
There’s sufficient room for the electronics, but I had to be a little creative with some
cutting near the end of assembly.
I also had some trouble finding the right screws – WPL supplies more screws in number
and variety than you need, so a pair of callipers can be helpful to identify the right screws
– at least, when the very basic manual here gives you their correct sizes!
Sometimes they don't and you've just got to guess.
For the wheels, I made my own foams.
I used the included wheel weights in the B36KM truck I did a while back and I think the weight
was necessary and helpful for that truck.
For these wheels, I ran a few rings of solder
around each wheel and that was the weight, but otherwise
I just let my foams do the trick.
The tires are nice and soft and I glued them to the rim without a problem.
For the electronics, I used a Hobbywing ESC, which is more than ample for this rig.
I chose it because it’s fully waterproof, which is a good thing.
And I used my Flysky GT5 6-ch radio and just a cheap and cheerful
FS-A3 receiver, which is all of $6 or $7.
The kit comes with a motor and the two servos, one for steering and one for shifting.
And speaking of two servos, the 2-speed is finnicky
– a problem I found on the B36KM as well.
My solution has been to cut away some of the plastic on the little shroud in which the
shift servo arm moves, which frees up its total play and lets it click in and out of
1st gear.
Once everything was together and I tested the chassis on my little rock garden, it was
time for the body to be done!
At the end of winter we finally had some sunny days, so I got the plastic primer down, then
the paint, then the clear coat.
That all took a few days to allow it to dry and harden, and then I assembled the body.
And I’ve got to say, I’m pretty happy with the result!
How good does it look!
It’s top-heavy, of course, being a hard body model, but wow it’s still composed
and the suspension, basic as it is, works beautifully.
I wish it had leaf suspension for realism, but I can’t deny that the oil-free shock/spring
combo they supplied works really well.
This is a stable little trail truck and it is FUN!
Find a link to where I got mine in the description.
As always, I’ve paid for everything you see with my own money and I’m answering
to no company for my review.
Opinions are my own and I encourage you to ask questions and research for yourself – but
I do hope this little review has been helpful.
Leave me a Like if you’ve enjoyed this little review and I’ll see you next time on RC-TNT.
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