ok I left my my tops a little longer I've already cut this one to length
but you don't have, say, you don't have a 12 inch chop saw that
will cut 12 inches across and three inches deep, let's say like me, I did this
one completely by hand and I'm going to show you how I did it
I'm going to use a knife wall which is something you get used to if you keep
following the videos you'll hear me talk about a knifewall all the time
so I'm going to take my length now off this one here so everything, this has
been cut to length, every other piece now my well board and my aprons are
going to be cut to this one piece
so I'm going to take off the minimum from this end so that I can take off the
maximum from that end to make a knife mark here
usually I use a knife marker 'cause it's absolutely definitive
I'm looking along this length here and these two marry up perfectly but there was no
gap between them so I know we're straight so I'm going to use this as my
straightedge I've already sighted down this for straightness so I know I'm
straight
a good square you can't get by without a good accurate square so get the best
square you can
this is a combination square, slide up to that little nick I've got the next slide
my knife into it
slide up to it and squeeze and lock as much as I can, a very light pass here
very very light and then I can go heavier and now I can go as heavy as
I like and it won't slid
this is a Stanley knife this is not the usual Stanley knife it's a wonderful
knife you really love owning one of these so square that knifewall then I'm
going to go onto the edge here so I go into my knife cut slide my square up to
it now because I registered my first square edge against here
I now go to this edge so I always use the same registration faces the whole
time and we're going to get into exactness about how you lay out your
face edge and your faces
later on in our offerings but right now this is your workbench and this is
the quickest easiest way to get you going
you see I go heavier and heavier with each pass start very lightly switch over
this will guarantee this edge being squared cannot not be square
my knife has come exactly on the same edge as this one so we're ready to go
just to define my knifewall a little bit deeper on the top here
I go in like this
this gives me a step down to guide my saw against just flick that like that
and now we can run the saw
I'm just using this saw it's probably 90 90 years old I sharp my own saws will be
doing some videos on saw sharpening that will knock your socks off later
so I'm going across the top, watch my line there
generally I saw just a slight amount out of square so that I can plane down to that
knife line now I've gone in a little bit it's not likely to do the 8, this is my power
stroke
this is real woodworking, back to top again here
nearly there
careful you don't break the corner off here gently gently and there's my
laminated section
let's test this, I usually try and break this, it will break
close to the glue line but look where it broke again in the middle I'm trying to
break it on the glue line which shows not one of them has broken on the glue
line
it shows the strength of this PVA glue this is a no-nonsense PVA glue
so I've got a plane at the end grain and it's easier to do it now then when it's on
the finish bench stand it on end down on the ground should I say and then bring
this in to you
I've got a a knife wall on this side
but if you can see here you can see I plane slightly out of square
I mean I saw kerf slightly out of square so that when I plane I can plane in
right up to that knife line and I'll show you how we do that even though this
is spruce this is really very heavy now
ok I've got my plane set fairly sharp I don't want to take too much off
I'm planing down the face but I'm careful not to go past this edge here
with my cutting edge because it will break, it will fracture and I've
gone right up to that knife wall
I don't actually need to check this for square because it's automatically square
the knifewall guarantees it while I'm here I'm just going to break the edge
just a little bit and then I flip over like this
you can see how nice and clean the surfaces now plane number four this
does not have a thick iron in it
it's not a heavyweight plane you don't need them this will do all that you need
and there is my end
nice pristine surface and now I'm going to offer it back to the other piece and
do the same at the other end but mark it directly off the second bench top