These graceful boats
made of tortora reeds
were around long before the Inca arrived on the scene.
They're so perfect for Peru's rugged northern surf
that their design hasn't changed in hundreds of years.
The fishermen used them - with great success -
in the shallow coastal waters
where larger boats can't go.
Buso is the patriarch of the beach.
The man who has the last word in everything
from the weather
to who's strong enough to carry a boat.
"He doesn't think I can carry it."
"He says I can't do it."
He's offered to show me
how to paddle through the surf.
What I really want to do is build one of my own.
Buso doesn't think that women belong on boats
which makes me want it that much more.
I had no idea how cold the water was.
And Buso is 60 years old.
They're called "Caballitos"
"Little Horses"
for the way they prance over the waves
depending on who's at the helm.
"This is... you? How old were you?"
Buso started his career at the age of four.
A good thing, since he now has over 30 mouths to feed.
10 children
with the next generation well on the way.
His wife.
"My queen," he says with pride.
It's time to build my boat.
Each fisherman has to grow enough tortora reeds
to make 5 boats a year.
A caballito lasts less than 3 months
in the pounding surf.
It takes 2 weeks for the reeds to dry.
I try to help but I'm only in the way.
They know exactly what to do.
Buso has agreed
reluctantly
to let me join him in their fishing grounds
IF I can carry the 140-pound boat myself
AND paddle it in the surf.
"I don't believe it!"
"Definitely the prettiest one on the beach."
"By far."
At last - my maiden voyage.
Buso secretly sends four of his sons out
to watch over me.
They make it look so easy.
Consigned to the cargo hold
a useless piece of baggage.
"Women," Buso says, "are made for cooking fish,"
"not catching them."
Buso is illiterate.
His teachers once urged him to stay in school
and become a lawyer or a doctor.
"But I'm already a professional," he said.
"I'm a master fisherman.
"I've studied the sea and I understand her ways."
"This is where I belong."