[Music plays softly in background] Hello, my name is Faith Cooper and I am a co-curator of the exhibition Eleanor
Lambert: Empress of Seventh Avenue. This exhibition was organized in March 2020
by graduate students from FIT's fashion and textile studies program and
is the first exhibition to explore Eleanor Lambert the original fashion
publicist. Throughout her 75 year career, Eleanor
Lambert worked passionately to bring global recognition to New York's fashion
industry. The introduction section of the exhibition features this Bill Blass coat
from around 1970 that was donated to the Museum by Eleanor Lambert. Lambert often
wore clothing designed by her clients, an appreciation of their talents and as a
show of her support. Bill Blass was not only a client, he was also a good friend
of Lambert's. He once said of her work "to tell you the truth, I really don't know
what she does, but it works." As the exhibition demonstrates, Lambert created
a new kind of fashion profession and established industry practices that had
shaped the fashion industry for decades to come.
Before entering the fashion industry Eleanor Lambert began her career in the
art world when she moved to New York in 1925. She is credited with establishing
the careers of sculptor Isamu Noguchi and Salvador Dali. Lambert commissioned
Dali to design the cover of the fall 1930 issue of the American textile
industry publication American Fabrics in order to reignite the purchase of silk
in America following World War II. The Surrealist butterfly motif featured
on the cover is echoed on the tie by Dali displayed next to it. The tie was
painted a year after the issue was published. Much of the art Dali created
for Lambert included butterflies. This is evidenced by the recent auction sale at
Christies of the 1953 painting Dali gave to Lambert. The colorful dresses are
reminiscent of butterfly wings and may have been inspired by fashion. Lambert's
clients often repaid her by giving her their works. Since the beginning of her
career, Eleanor Lambert established relationships with some of the most
famous celebrities of her time like Paley shown here. In 1940 Lambert took
over the international best-dressed list which designer Mainbocher started before
the war. Her original intention was to create a publicity stunt for her clients
and to provide the fashion industry with "a record of taste." It became a fashion
staple that is documented in a new book by Amy Fine Collins. Lambert created
publicity for her clients such as Norman Norell and Halston whose blue sequined
dress of 1972 is shown here. This dress was worn by actress Lauren Bacall who
was featured on the list. Over time men and women fought and even offered bribes
to be recognized for their sense of style by their inclusion on the list. The
list featured the most fashionable celebrities and socialites. Its
popularity led writer Truman Capote to collaborate with Lambert to help him
build the guest list for a masked ball. The 1966 black and white ball would
later be known as the party of the century.
This mask, a highlight of the exhibition, was worn to the party by Gaston
socialite Marietta Tree who ran in the same social circles as Lambert.
If her name sounds familiar, it is because she is the mother of model
Penelope Tree. The second section of the exhibition is titled "Fashion Meets
Politics," which explores Eleanor Lambert's involvement at prominent
American political figures. A video highlights one of the only White House
fashion shows. Lambert and Lady Bird Johnson produced the "Discover America"
fashion show that took place in 1968. It celebrated and promoted the American
fashion industry by showing red, white, and blue garments and accessories as
well as the work of Geoffrey Beene, Bill Blass, and Norman Norell. One of
Lambert's most famous political connections was Jacqueline Kennedy who
was criticized in 1960 by Women's Wear Daily for purchasing French fashion
while her husband was campaigning to be President of the United States.
Lambert helped Kennedy change the negative press by selecting American
designers for her to wear. Images from this 1961 Life magazine show women
adopting Jackie's style, as well as having a passion for fashion. Eleanor Lambert's
initiatives often included a hint of activism. One of her most revolutionary
acts was her support of black fashion models, designers, and publications. For
example, in 1973 Lambert helped organize the iconic Versailles fashion show. She
ensured this event included American designers, as well as black models, which
was rare for the time. The African-American designer Stephen
Burrows was selected for the Versailles show. Lambert became a keen advocate of
Burrows around 1970, the year he created this jacket.
The final section of the exhibition entitled "Eleanor Lambert's Vision of Seventh
Avenue" displays the work of some of her most influential clients and illustrates
how they contributed to American style. In 1943 American designer Mainbocher
created a version of this dress for the infamous Wallis Simpson Duchess of
Windsor like Mainbocher, Simpson was a close friend of Lambert
and was frequently featured on her best-dressed list.
Simpson created a scandal when Prince Edward Duke of Windsor abdicated the
throne in 1936 in order to marry her, an American divorcee. Simpson maintained a
distinct style in the face of such notoriety. Her Mainbocher wedding dress
shown here was part of cultivating her image and Lambert understood its
importance, encouraging Simpson to donate it to an
American museum. Throughout her career, Lambert loved
seeking out young fashion talent. She discovered Oscar de la Renta
in 1965. A designer she believed in so much, she represented him for free. As he
became more established de la Renta sent Lambert checks to repay her for her
support. In 1967 de la Renta won a Coty Award for his trend-setting
Russian- and “Gypsy”-themed collection. The Coty awards were started by Lambert to
recognize American designers for their work. This de la Renta caftan belonged to
fashion icon Diana Vreeland who had once called Lambert "an amateur" for supporting
American fashion. Clearly Lambert would prove Vreeland wrong, as Oscar de la Renta
would go on to serve as president of the CFDA. The CFDA, which stands for the
Council of Fashion Designers of America, is a not-for-profit trade association
formed in 1962. Lambert noticed that both the state and city didn't pay enough
attention to the interest of the American fashion industry and she was
instrumental in its formation during the 1960's. Eleanor Lambert noticed another
young fashion designer Calvin Klein. She spotted him cutting coats without a
pattern. Impressed by his skills, Lambert took Klein on as a client and
helped him start his business in the fall of 1968. She would later call him
"one of the most sensational successes of American fashion in recent history." This
Calvin Klein wool coat is a recent donation to The Museum at FIT and an
original sample that helped launch his business. Klein became the first designer
to win a Coty award for three consecutive years. Eleanor Lambert's
influence and impact on the American fashion industry was well beyond what
we've highlighted in this walk through. To learn more about Lambert's major
contributions to America and the fashion industry, such as fashion week, the Dress
Institute, her charity work with March of Dimes, and more we invite you to visit
the past exhibition page of the Museum and FIT's website. Thank you for
joining us. [music continues playing]