in this video what I want to show you is how we can use a
method called Direct method to set out the eight bevels required to cut a hip roof
The advantage of Direct method is I can be done on a building site. All you really need is a
Square, a
sliding bevel
something to measure with and pencil to mark with and
without any calculation you can set out all eight bevels and have them on a piece of timber where you can take
Direct reference or you can transfer the bevels directly under a sliding bevel with them
There's not too much effort at all
So all you need is a piece of timber the piece of used here is about
500mm long doesn't need to be that long probably 400mm be fine
This is 90 x 45
the thicker the piece of timber
The better so 45 is good if you can get 70 that would be even better
Just make your edge bevels more accurate
But the process is exactly the same
So the first thing you need to do is give you a sliding bevel
and you need to set it up to your roof pitch, so
We're going to use 30 degrees for this video. So I've set my sliding bevel I have 30 degrees now
How you get that is up to you you could use a protractor. You can even set the
Drop saw to whatever your roof pitch is and um take the or set the sliding bevel up to
The angle on your drop saw so you get the actual pitch
but you need to get that that initial roof pitch set to start with
So we put our sliding bevel on here. We need to come in
About 100mm from one end, and we need to mark in our plumb bevel
Because that that will be our plumb bevel there that line
Then what we do is we take the thickness of our timber
So whatever distance this happens to be?
In this case it's 45mm, but whatever yours is and we transfer that on so it's at 90 degrees
it's parallel to our plumb bevel and
We're not worried about the whole line we only want to know where it meets. This top edge here and
From that top Edge what we're going to do is just going to square a line across the timber back to this point here
like such
so effectively what we've got now is we've got the rise of our Roof and
this line across here represents the plan length of our common rafter
so
those two dimensions form our
plumb and level bevel of our common rafters, so
rise, plan length common rafter
So that must mean that this one here is the true length coming after it gives us our plumb and level
bevel of our common rafter
so the next step is to do our edge bevel for our creeper, so
all we need to do is grab the square again and
square a line across from where the
The level bevel was that point
square across the timber
so that effectively gives us our plan length of
Plan length on this side and on this side. we've got the true length of our common rafter and we've join those two points up
That'll give us
edge bevel creeper on this corner and
edge bevel purlin down on this corner
Okay, so now we need to do our edge bevel for our hip sorry our plumb and level bevel for our hip
So what we need to do we need to extend this line straight down the face of our piece of timber
like such
And then we're going to get the length of this line
And we're going to draw it in here. So that where it the line ends. It lands exactly under the
Line we've extended out here
like such
So what we've got now is we've got our rise still
with this line here, which is now our plan length of our hip and
This will represent the true length of our hips that means the two
Bevels that we've just formed
Are the plumb and the level bevel for the hip
So now we need to grab our sliding bevel again we need to actually pick up
This bevel, transfer this bevel here onto the sliding bevel
like such
and then we're going to move that down the piece of timber and
draw that in in again and then
we're going to pretty much repeat the process
to get some more bevels so plumb bevel for the hip mark the thickness of our timber
Parallel once again, we're only interested in this point
Pick it up Square it across with the combo Square and
that will give us our plumb and level bevel for our hip there as well a
Little bit of a double up but needs to be done
Then once again. We're going to square across the edge
join the two points
And that will give us our edge bevel for our hip up in this corner here
so then we need to do our purlin bevel there is a couple of ways of doing that first way is
Grab our combo square again, and we need to pick a point along our plumb bevel common rafter here
And just draw a line square to this edge
straight up
till it hits the edge there and
then we're going to square it across the top as well, so
straight up, square It across the top
Then what we need to do
They take this length here, which you can just measure and we're going to transfer it around under this edge second
transfer for that around like such
so that length there is the same as that length there and
Then we're going to join this point here
With this point down here
and
That will give us our face bevel Purlin
Now there is a way you can do that without having to do any drawing
and that is I'll jump over to another piece of timber if
We cut our timber or now
our plumb cut and our edge bevel creeper cut
so form a compound cut
that can be simply done on a drop soil with a circular saw if you
Set your circular saw you drop saw at 45 degrees
And then just cut along the plumb cut that will automatically cut that angle for you
And then you can just cut square across the timber and that will give you
an end like that and this little
Angle in here is
your face bevel purlin so it's just another way you can do it without having to do any drawing at all
So that's it. That's the eight bevels
For a hip roof
Produced using what we call direct method and as you can see
Doesn't matter what bevel
We have a reference
or we can actually reference that bevel off one of the edges mainly this edge
but
pretty easy to
Transfer those marks off the Timber onto a
sliding bevel and
Pretty easy also to set up one of these for all your common roof pitches
so you have it in the truck and it's all box and
just pull out the one you need for the roof that you're cutting and
Away you go
So that's it eight bevels for a hip roof using what we call direct method