I was yearning for some fresh sea air, so I decided to take a trip to Germany's most northern state:
Schleswig-Holstein. Where exactly? On the Schlei!
It may look like a river, but it's actually an estuary of the Baltic Sea.
So what better way to kick off the day than by taking in the crisp salty air in the city of Kappeln's historic harbor.
Kappeln used to be a fishing village, but today it lives mainly from tourism.
It's a great base if you want to explore the area.
One of the city's landmarks is the Amanda - the tallest windmill in Schleswig-Holstein.
The weather’s perfect for a boat ride. First I have to check in with Captain Juliane Sebode.
A roundtrip cruise to Lotseninsel Schleimünde on the MS Stadt Kappeln takes about two hours.
The captain's son Jan Ole is at the helm today.
The Schleimünde Peninsula is situated at the mouth of the Schlei.
It’s shape constantly changes as a result of the wind and waves.
During storm tides Schleimünde can be completely submerged. Most of it is a bird sanctuary.
This light house has been guiding ships to safety since 1871.
One side of the peninsula faces the open sea!
From the mouth of the Schlei to the other end. To the city of Schleswig.
The old fishing district of Holm is especially pretty. It was settled in the tenth century.
Another must see is Gottorf Castle! It was once the residence of the dukes of Schleswig-Holstein at Gottorf.
The house also produced kings and bishops.
The castle's chapel dates back to 1590 and has been largely preserved in its originally form.
The small duchy was a mighty center of power in northern Europe.
Gottorf also houses an archeological museum.
One of its most amazing exhibits in the Nydam boat, a warship from the year 320 AD.
Uta Kuhl is very familiar with the history of the region.
When was Schleswig's golden era?
In the 17th century when it was the Duchy of Schleswig-Holstein at Gottorf.
At that point Schleswig was really one of Europe's prime cultural centers.
Culture - not military might - was used to try to rise to the level of Denmark.
That was a outstanding time, when there was a kunstkammer, when there was a lot of construction
done on the castle, when the gardens were planted, and when there was a huge library here.
It was a center of both science and the arts. It had far-reaching influence.
Through the course of its history this region periodically belonged to Denmark.
Why were the Danes so interested in it?
It often happened that the Duke of Schleswig was also the King of Denmark.
Which meant that from the Danish perspective, this region was always a part of Denmark.
Under the Dukes, Schleswig was officially a fief, but they were increasingly pushing for their sovereignity.
So what we saw - put in simple terms - was a centuries-long back and forth about
whether this region belonged to the German Empire or to Denmark.
This stately Baroque garden also belongs to the castle. It was commissioned by Duke Friedrich III in 1637.
Here we find the Gottorf Globe. The old historical house was replaced with this modern building.
The purpose of which is to keep a technical masterpiece safe.
The globe is three meters in diameter and the outside depicts the earth's surface.
On the inside, there's a map of the stars, and a depiction of how people in the 17th century viewed the sky above.
The Gottorf Globe is known as the world's first planetarium. This one is a copy.
The original was taken to St. Petersberg by a Russian tsar.
Before my visit to the Schlei comes to an end, I want to try my hand at sailing.
Sailing instructor Oliver Franke is going to show me the basics on a boat built in 1957.
In my defense I know nothing about sailing.
First, we slowly leave the harbor. I'm allowed to steer!
Oliver sets the sails while I try to get a sense of what's happening.
Are we suppose to be tilting this much?
Jaja.
Rasmus, Neptune, Lorenz, Clara, Niklas, Eggenege-Pin:
We drink to you, so you may always smile upon us and give us good wind. Cheers!
Let's hope the sailing gods like sherry.
Next - a lesson in sailing lingo:
Because of the profile of the sail the flow velocity on the outside side is stronger than the inside.
Tacking is when you towards the wind and jibe is through it, right?
Um... no. The other way around. Those ropes are the backstays. They support the mast.
I understood about two words of what you just said.
It's not as easy as I expected.
But: If at first you don't succeed, try, try again. And eventually, I too get to hoist the sail.
Now, this is the best part about sailing: gliding smoothly across the waves.
A perfect way to enjoy my final moments on the Schlei.
And just like that, I'm in Flensburg, the third largest city in Schleswig-Holstein after Kiel and Lübeck.
Flensburg is located just five kilometers south of the border to Denmark.
If you're looking for a souvenir, you're sure to find one in a local arts and crafts shops.
Flensburg’s proximity to the water made it almost predestined for trading.
Shipping and trade left a lasting mark on Flensburg.
Back in the 18th century, local merchants mostly dealth with sugar and rum from the Carribean.
That's because Flensburg used to belong to Denmark, and the country had colonies in the West Indies.
And it was thanks to the rum trade that Flensburg experienced its best of times.
There were around 200 rum houses in Flensburg at the end of the 18th century.
Today, only two remain.
One belongs to Martin Johannsen, who is keeping the family tradition going.
Just like his grandfather, he gets the rum from Jamaica and refines it in Flensburg. Storage is very important.
How long does it take to make rum, from start to finish?
That depends - it varies according to what you drink.
Light or white rums are younger, whereas brown rums are more intense.
As a rule of thumb a rum should be left in the barrel for six years.
Our distilled rums are between eight and twelve years old.
But we also have one from 1965, and another 22-year old distilled rum.
I think it's time for a drink.
Great!
Okay, let's do this!
Here's a nice Jamaican rum.
That's pretty strong! How much alcohol is in there?
Only 38 percent.
Only, he says.
Rum isn't for the faint of heart.
For those who prefer gentler spirits, Johannsen's rum house also has less potent options.
The shop has been here since 1878.
My trip to Germany’s north ends at Glücksburg beach. A favorite with the locals.
Great place to relax after an eventful day. What a wonderful time I’ve had.
Lots of water, sailing, an incredible castle and let’s not forget the strong but delicious rum!
If you ask me, perfect conditions for a summer getaway.