This is not the Maldives.
This isn't Scotland.
Or Norway.
And no, this isn't Switzerland either.
This is Albania.
A country that has all of that – and much more.
One of Europe's best kept secrets.
For a long time, Albania wasn't exactly perceived
positively by outsiders.
It was seen as poor, underdeveloped, criminal.
But over the past few years, more and more tourists have been arriving.
So, what's changed?
And what's Albania like to travel in?
I take you on a road trip through the country
and show you how to get around. On my schedule for my next few days:
bunkers, beaches, and accursed mountains.
For now though, I'm off to the capital Tirana.
This is where North Albania meets South Albania, tradition meets modernity,
nature meets nightlife.
Tirana is the heart of Albania and Skanderbeg Square is right at its center.
Although there's usually a lot going on,
Albanians always make time for a coffee.
It's no wonder that there are hardly any other cities in Europe with so many cafés per capita.
When in Albania, do as the Albanians do.
So before I set off, I start my day with a coffee.
Here in the main square, too, it only costs about one euro.
If you want to get out of Tirana
and discover the rest of Albania, you can head here to the bus station.
These minibuses can take you to almost every corner of Albania. Their schedules
aren't always the easiest to understand, though and they don't necessarily
stick to specific times. So it's best to ask the drivers themselves. They're always happy to help.
If you're a confident driver and willing to take risks, you can also get around with a rental car.
Like I did.
Let s go!
The most important driving rule:
Don't be shy with the horn.
Albania has never been particularly prosperous. And in the 1990s, the country slid into an
economic crisis causing many here to lose all their savings. But it has always been
rich in resourceful people and beautiful areas.
Even the ancient Romans thought: Damn, it's pretty nice here.
And decided to stay. This amphitheater here in Durrës is a reminder of that era.
Today, the prospect of a cheap vacation attracts many tourists to Albania.
New hotels are springing up everywhere and the beaches are being prepared for hoards of tourists.
Over the years, it has become increasingly easier to get here and enjoy the sea and sun
without breaking the bank. But the rise in tourism has also changed the country.
Nature conservation vs economic development, wilderness vs tourism: This debate is currently
being weighed up all across Albania. South of here, for example, an airport is currently being built –
in the midst of a protected landscape.
I'm looking for nature and adventure. But first I grab a quick snack.
A byrek a day keeps the doctor away!
Only 40 cents!
And now I'm on my way north to Shkodër.
From the ruins of Rozafa Castle I watch the sunset.
Thyme, fresh from the castle.
Nice.
Even in summer, the number of tourists here in the cultural center of northern Albania, is manageable.
Hello? Nobody there.
Entrance to the castle costs 3.50 euros, and the view is priceless.
These mountains back there will be our next stop.
And to reach them I have to leave pretty early the next morning.
Because the ferry across Lake Komani departs from here only once a day.
The crossing to the other shore, to Fierza, takes 2.5 hours.
It's a bit windy but easily worth it because the view is just stunning!
The reservoir stretches for 34 kilometers.
On the way, I meet Ermal Serjani.
A sports teacher who works as a tour guide in the summer.
While the beaches of southern Albania are overcrowded this time of year,
that's not the case in the north where there's still plenty to see.
From Fierza, I continue to the Valbona Valley – in the middle of Bjeshkët e Nemuna,
the so-called cursed mountains.
They are called cursed mountains because for a long time, this region was so cut off
that people lived here according to a set of their own laws. But don't worry, Albania is just as safe for
travelers as other destinations in Europe: because although the clich is widespread that Albania
is full of crime, it is just that: a cliché.
As a woman traveling alone, I not only feel safe here, but also very welcome.
Most Albanians I have met have been extremely hospitable.
There is only one place where you have to watch out and that is here: on the road.
If you travel off the beaten tracks, roads can sometimes look like this.
And although Albanians are some of the most considerate people you will ever meet
the road has its own laws.
So, when in doubt: Just hop on a bus.
Valbona valley is surrounded by snowy peaks, some of them reaching almost 2,700 meters.
So, I do what should be at the top of every visitor's to-do list: go for a hike.
Stay alert, though: There are bears and wolves in the area.
There are trails for every level of difficulty.
However, you should be experienced or bring someone with you who is.
The trails are not always clearly marked.
While hiking, I come across some structures that look like spaceships.
These are bunkers. If you keep your eyes peeled,
you'll find concrete domes like these all across Albania.
They're a reminder of a time that many Albanians don't want to be reminded of. For over 40 years,
Albania was almost completely cut off from the world. Dictator Enver Hoxha, fearing an attack
from outside at any given time, commissioned the construction of 750.000 bunkers.
Only 200,000 were actually built.
They remain today as either lookout points or crumbling ruins.
The past left its mark on Albania's landscape and economy which can still be felt today.
It's one of the reasons why the nature here in the north still seems so pristine.
Because the region is so isolated and lacks infrastructure, there is hardly any industry here.
And young people lack prospects for the future.
If you want to do your part to ensure that the region develops gently and sustainably,
the best place to stay is in one of the small, locally run family businesses.
Like Arben and Faria Selimaj's hostel on the edge of the valley,
which has an unbeatable view.
Feels like a fairytale.
Faria has cooked dinner for her guests. And immediately gets me to set the table.
I'm already so hungry. This looks so good, I'm excited.
Every hand is needed, because today 25 guests are staying here.
We are planning to finish six more private rooms
because a lot of people are asking.
And we don't have a place for them. And then we are finishing that and that's enough.
Why is it enough?
Because I really like to take care of people.
And if I take too much, it's a bit difficult and I can't. That's why.
There is byrek and sucuk. Conversations about hiking in the snow, hospitality,
and incredible mountain peaks.
Albania really has it all: Unspoiled nature and lively cities, mountains, beaches, sun, snow.
And all of it sprinkled with that sense of adventure.
Traveling through Albania might not always be the most straightforward thing, but it's well worth it.
Bring flexibility and a pair of decent hiking boots
and put Albania on your bucket list.