(Music)
- [Allison] Hi, this is Allison Sheridan
and welcome to another edition of ScreenCastsOnline.
This week we're going to learn about an iOS app
called HashPhotos from beyondf.
This application is for iPad, iPhone and iPod Touch.
Think of HashPhotos as a way to augment Apple Photos.
It works on your existing photos library
but brings unique capabilities
that simply don't exist in Apple Photos.
You don't have to choose between Apple Photos and HashPhotos
because they work together,
allowing you to have the best of both worlds.
Most of the features of HashPhotos
act on your Apple Photos library directly.
So if you create albums and folders, for example,
in HashPhotos, they show up in Apple Photos.
Edits you make to your images
are also in your Apple Photos library.
HashPhotos is incredibly fast,
even on a giant photos library
making it faster for some things
than working in Apple Photos on the Mac
but the real power is in the extra features of HashPhotos
like being able to adjust the dates on photos,
add location data, create filmstrips and much much more.
HashPhotos is free with in-app purchases.
You can try each of the premium features
three times before you buy
but the pricing is really really low.
You can choose from six different feature packs
for one dollar US each or you can unlock all of the tools
for the grand sum of $3.99.
(Music)
I've done a search for HashPhotos in the iOS App Store.
Let's take a look.
You'll see that it supports iOS 12 as of very recently.
So this app is being kept up to date.
Let's download and instal HashPhotos.
Let's open
and the first time HashPhotos opens
it's going to give you some hints
about some things you can do with HashPhotos.
I'll flip past all of these
because we're going to talk about them in this tutorial.
When it comes up it shows you some options
on how to navigate the interface
but I'll be showing you this so I'm going to tap away
and now you can see it's ready to take a look at my photos.
You will notice that this background may change over time
as I'm doing the recording
and I take photos in my personal library.
When you first run HashPhotos,
it should ask you for access to your photos library.
Because I've installed this before,
it has remembered that I gave it that access.
By default, your images are laid out in a square format
in the grid you see on screen.
We can change that to rectangles if you prefer
in the Preferences but we'll get to that later.
Also notice that we have some numbers here.
You see it says 28, 29 and 30.
Those are the dates those photos were taken.
You can see September peeking out from the upper left
so all of the photos after the 28
were taken on the 28th of September.
You can see I have one screenshot
taken on the 1st of October.
It's kind of a nice little grid view
that gives you an idea of when the photos were taken
and you can still see all of your photos.
If I tap on a photo like one of these flags,
you'll see it's a live photo
and it actually played it for me.
Let me swipe that back in the upper left
we also have a button there that we can tap that says albums
that takes you to the same place.
In the upper left, we have an Apple Photos logo
and right next to that is a HashPhotos logo.
If we're in Apple Photos,
you can see all of the albums you have in Apple Photos.
If I tap on the second icon for HashPhotos,
this is going to be local albums
and we're going to come back to that.
Let's go back to Apple Photos.
At the top you can see a count
of the number of photos in my library
and that number is different in the main grid view
that's because the count at the top is not just photos,
even though it's labeled photos,
it's the count of your photos and your videos.
We can see expanded here smart albums.
So these are the albums that are created by default
in Apple Photos.
If you favourite a photo, it will create the smart album
called Favorites and then it would show in this list.
Likewise if you created a video or you did a selfie
or a live photo, all of these smart albums you see here
are created on the fly as you do things in Apple Photos
but they're beautifully revealed in HashPhotos
which makes it really easy to navigate
in and out of your smart albums.
I'm going to tap on the chevron
to the right of smart albums.
Next down you see we have my albums
and this is a list of different albums and structures
that I've created.
In particular if you look at the 2018 icon,
if I tap on that I sort my photos into folders
by quarter and by year and that folder structure
is preserved over in HashPhotos
because HashPhotos really is looking
at your Apple Photos library.
Under my albums I have even more structure.
I keep 2018 on the outside but if I tap on that,
you can see each of the folders that I have by year.
Let me tap on 2017.
Inside here now you're going to see even more folders
but let's take a look at 2017 Q1.
If I tap on that, now these are actually albums
that are inside folders that are inside folders
in Apple Photos.
So all of the structure that you create over an Apple Photos
including albums that you create in your folder structure
is maintained and fully visible from within HashPhotos.
Let me just tap on one of these.
Let's see... how about when my AirPods battery was leaking.
If I tap on that, I can immediately go in
and see the photos that are inside that album
that were inside two folders deep.
Let me go back to albums and I'll collapse this back up
by tapping the chevron next to my albums.
I'll tap on photos in the upper left
and it's actually going to pop it back over
in order to get us back to our full album view
of all photos.
Let me just tap on albums again in the upper left.
Other albums we have in here
have been created by other applications
like my WyzeCam and the application Focos
that I've shown you before.
Let me scroll up.
We can also see Cloud Shared
and that's iCloud Photo Sharing.
These are all albums that I have shared
with friends and family
and they're showing up inside HashPhotos.
If I scroll up there's nothing showing under tags
but we're going to come back to tags
because that's a feature within HashPhotos.
Let's scroll all the way up to the top.
If you're like me and you have a lot of albums,
Smart Albums and albums you've created and folder structure,
I think it's a lot easier to see it in this list view on iOS
than the way Apple Photos for iOS shows it to you.
You know, over in Apple Photos on iOS.
it shows it in a grid block view
and you have to keep opening things you can't drill down
with nice little chevrons like this.
Actually HashPhotos is presenting the information
much more like Apple Photos on the Mac
which is the way I prefer to see it.
Down at the bottom of the list of albums,
we've got a + button.
HashPhotos allows you to create private and local albums
and folders that will only live inside HashPhotos.
If you look at Smart Albums, My Album,
and we'll be looking at regular folders,
all of those will exist over in Apple Photos
when you switch back over there.
Let's start with those.
I'm going to tap on Add Folder and at this point,
I could create a private or local folder.
Again, those would only be inside HashPhotos
or I can create My Folder and My Folder means
it exists over in Apple Photos.
So we tap My Folder
and I'm going to create a folder called Flags
and you'll see at the top right underneath My Albums
you'll see Flags.
Let me tap over the grid view
and I'm going to tap select in the upper right
and I can simply tap tap tap tap
or I can hit cancel, I can tap and drag and tap all four.
Now with those selected down at the bottom
you'll see it says Add To and I can tap there
and I can put it in the folder Flags
but I need to create a new album
and we'll call it Waving Flags and I'll tap save
and now if I go look at My Albums and I tap on Flags,
I've got Waving Flags and there are my four flags
I added to that album.
Remember these photos are now in an album,
in a folder over in Apple Photos.
I really like that this allows you
to work in Apple Photos or HashPhotos,
whichever is the better tool for the job at the time
but the structure you create exists in both.
Let's go back over and look at albums.
I'll go back to all photos here.
You see that it takes a couple of seconds to come up
but again remember this is organising
and viewing 70,000 photos on an iPad.
You can see I have some new photos
that have come in from my walk today.
Let me swipe over and I'm gonna tap the + button again
and this time let's take a look at local album.
It's gonna ask me to name it
and now it flipped over on the very top
to the hash logos section.
Let me flip back so you can see it.
I'm going to tap on the photos icon
and then back to the HashPhotos icon.
So now I can see my local and you'll see I have no photos.
So let me tap on albums and I'm gonna go back to photos
and this will come back in just a second
showing all my photos.
I want to show you another way to select photos
that's even more efficient than what I did before.
I'll tap on select and I'm gonna tap
on the one for October 1st and when I do that,
it's going to select all of the photos for that day.
Now in this case I don't want that screen shot
so I'm going to tap it to deselect.
I'll tap add to and I'll tap Local Album
and I've only got one so it'll go to My Local
or it could have created a new one
and it's moving 12 items.
So now it's going to ask
whether I wanted to allow HashPhotos
to actually delete those 12 photos from Apple Photos.
Now in this case I don't actually want to do that
but this is a way of taking albums
and having them be just in HashPhotos
and not show up in Apple Photos.
I'm gonna tap Don't Allow.
We go back to albums again.
This time I'm gonna select Private Album.
I get a warning here that says I need to set a passcode
in order to create a private album.
I'll tap set passcode and it's going to ask me to type it in
and I'll use my keyboard to type in 1234
and now on screen I have to type 1234
to see into that album
and create this new private album and I'll tap save.
Now it's flipped over to the HashPhotos side again
and now it says Private Albums
and if I tap on that it's going to ask for my passcode
to be able to get in to see them.
You'll notice I couldn't see them until I type this in
and now there's my private album.
I tap on it and I don't have any photos in it.
I could go through the same process that I did before
to go back to my photos and I'm gonna do a select,
I'll select all, deselect that one photo
and I'll say Add To and I'm going to go to a private album
and it's going to ask for my passcode yet again.
I'm gonna go to My Private
and it's gonna move those photos.
Again it's going to want to delete them from Apple Photos
which I don't want to do.
Let's go take a look at those local
and private albums we just created
and I'll tap on the HashPhotos logo
and let me first look at My Local.
You'll notice that those 12 pictures
are actually in that album.
It gave me the option to delete before
but it did put them in a local album here.
So I have kind of the best of both worlds.
I have a duplicate of them in this local album.
The same thing is true if I go to Private Albums
and I can tap on that album and though there are again
and I want to show you how to delete albums
and swipe from right to left.
I'll get the delete option and I can delete the album.
Let me do the same thing with my local.
You notice we also could rename the album from here
but I'm going to delete the album
and it says those photos will be deleted
and can't be undone but if I go back to my photos,
since that was a duplicate I go back over here,
you can see that those photos are still there.
So that was actually three copies of that set of 12 photos.
I don't want to spend too much more time
talking about folders and structures than we already have
because there's a lot more fun to be had in editing.
I've been on another walk.
So there's even more photos.
Let's take a look at this photo
of the palm tree and the clouds.
When I tap on it I'm gonna see the live photo
and then it's going to hold still.
In the upper right I have a button
that will let me look at the information about this photo
and you can see that's all of the EXIF data
for how that photo was taken,
including the location information.
If I tap back on the image, that goes away
and when you first go into some of these tools,
you'll get tool tips that'll give you gestures.
For example if I swipe down, I go back to the grid view.
I'm going to tap back in if I swipe up,
it's going to show me the information view
so you can use those gestures or you can use the buttons
if you'd prefer.
In the upper right is the edit menu
and the first time you tap this,
it's going to show you a tooltip
that suggests you try a long press on that.
So I'll do a long press right now.
So right now it's showing me a bunch of different options
that I could jump right into in editing
or tap away and tap once and go into the edit menu.
We'll start there.
In the bottom left we have a box.
I'm going to tap that and you're going to see
I can flip horizontal vertical, do rotations
and I can do crops.
We have a lot to go through here
so I'm going to assume that you know
how each of those would work.
Next is lighting and colour and this has a lot of options.
We can add green to a photo, I'll tap that
and I can simply increase the green or decrease the green.
I'm gonna hit the X to back out of that.
If I go back in, I can add a vignette
and again that one's a simple slider.
I can do a dark vignette or a light vignette.
I don't like either one so I'm going to hit the X again.
I don't want to go through all of these
because they are very standard types of controls.
One that's kind of a higher level control
that you don't always get in an iPad app or an iPhone app
is curves so I can change the way the lighting works
based on the RGB colour space.
I can change it like that or I could tap on a colour
like this will just affect the reds in the photo
when I drag the curves around
and if I don't want to see the curve for a second
so I just want to view the photo,
I can tap that curve symbol on the left side,
I can bring it back and I can hit undo
and I can hit X to get out.
We can also use an auto enhance feature
but you've again got experiences with that.
Up the top centre you can see a rectangle
with a bunch of little rectangles going back on that.
Let me show you what that is.
This is the undo history.
So let me close this for a moment
and I'm going to do a couple of changes.
Let's change the highlights and shadows.
I'm going to bring up my shadows
so I can see that tree a little bit more
and I'll bring down the highlights
and I'll hit the check box this time.
Now if I tap on the versions,
you can see I have different versions
and I could go back to the opening version
by tapping the top.
You can always go back and forth within this
during this operation.
You also have at the top and undo and a redo button.
I'll tap the redo and now you can see
the detail in the palm tree again.
I'll go back here and I'll tap open again.
So that's the way it was when it opened.
The centre colourful button
which looks kind of like the HashPhotos logo
is to get into filters.
There's a lot of options in here.
I'm still scrolling so you can go to your filters,
to your heart's content here.
I'm up to F, we can go into vintage,
we can tap the checkbox
and now I've got a completely different look to that photo.
I'm going to undo.
Next up is frames and this is to allow you
to put a frame around your photo.
Now it starts with a very simple rectangular frame
but I'm gonna hit the box on the left
and I can change that to just weight on the top and bottom,
a large area down at the bottom
looks kind of like an old Polaroid
and we could go to each of those options.
The next button, the circle is actually
for the colour of that border that's going around the photo.
We can also change the thickness.
It shrinks that up and down.
Let's go back and put a normal kind of border on it
so I can make this thicker and thinner.
Actually let's make a little bit thicker.
On the far right we can add rounded borders
so we can round our image inside that photo
and I'll tap the X button to back out of that.
Next up is the + button and this is gonna allow us
to do shape mask, overlay images, drawings blur.
There's a lot of fun to be had in here.
Let me tap on shape mask and it starts out with a circle.
If I tap the button on the far left
you can see I can change the colour of the outer area
so let's make that, let's see how about a dark blue there,
medium kind of blue.
Let me tap the middle button
and now this is going to show the shape.
So I could make it a heart,
make that some sort of romantic thing here
and then the button to the right
is gonna allow us to change the opacity of that outer area
that's not covered by the shape mask.
So I could make it completely opaque
or could make it much more translucent.
Kind of makes an interesting effect
if you wanted to highlight something
with a little bit of opacity there.
I'm gonna hit the X to cancel out of the shape masks.
Tap back in here and now I can overlay an image
and this is kind of an interesting idea.
I'm able to go back into my photos
and I'll choose another palm tree picture from the same walk
and it actually just plopped it right on top.
I'm gonna use two fingers to pinch and zoom it in,
that's gotten smaller and I can drag it around
with one finger and with two fingers,
I could rotate it, maybe put it down in the corner here.
I can change the opacity with a button on the right
so I could sort of filter that in and out
and the centre button this allows me
to change the blend mode.
So it's set to normal but I could set it to darken.
So let's move it over on top so you can see a little more
and let's go back over here and go back in.
I could change it to multiply, colour burn, linear burn.
If you've worked with overlay masks before in blend modes
you'll be familiar with this.
I don't think we need to go through all of those
and I'm going to cancel out.
Let's go back in.
I can actually draw in my image when I tap on drawing
I'm gonna get several tools and I've got a paintbrush
on the left and I tap on that.
I can simply draw.
Tap again, I could draw a rectangle
and go back I'm hitting the undo button at the top each time
go along here I can draw an arrow.
So I really want people to notice there's a palm tree here.
I can change the opacity of things that I'm drawing.
So let me draw another arrow over here.
It's a little bit lighter.
Let's go into this second button
and that allows me to make a thicker one
so I'll draw a nice big thick one
and you can see it's not quite as opaque as the first one.
I don't think anybody's gonna miss the palm tree here now.
Let me hit the X to pop out of all of those.
I'll hit the + button again, let's go into blur.
With blur, we have several tools down at the bottom.
The centre is going to control
what kind of tool I'm going to use for the blur.
The circle is going to change the size of the brush
that I will be using if I use a brush
and the third is going to change how blurred it is,
that little droplet changes how blurred it is.
So let's hit the paintbrush to start with
and I'm actually going to choose a circle.
I'm gonna drag a circle
across the centre of our picture here.
So you can see that it's blurred
and I'll use the droplet to change how blurry it is.
Dragging that up I can drag that down.
So let me undo that and let's look at the paintbrush.
So let's say I wanted to blur the outside area.
I'm gonna change the thickness
by increasing the size on this left button here
and I can start drawing
and I'm just kind of scribbling around on screen here.
I can change how much I've blurred this area
and I'm gonna accidentally kind of zoom in here.
I'm gonna accidentally blur over some of the tree.
If I go back to my paintbrush,
I have an eraser brush so I could go in here
and I could erase what was being blurred.
I might want to be more refined
so I might want to bring down the size of my eraser
and I could erase a smaller area.
Let me tap on the eraser brush to choose another tool.
You can also choose to use a square.
So I'll draw a large square right here to blur that area.
Let me hit the X to cancel out of this
and the next one up is Tilt Shift
and this is a particular technique
that allows you to create images
that make things look like they're miniature
and it requires a certain type of photo
where you've taken a photo maybe looking down on something,
people will do like a soccer field
and you can make something look smaller
and make it look like it's miniaturised.
It doesn't very well work if you're looking up
but let's just take a look at it really quickly here.
With tilt shift you want to change
the focus of the centre section to be in sharp focus
and the outer areas are gonna become blurry.
So I'm moving my fingers in and out
to make the outer areas blurry and change the location
and I can change the angle of the blurry
versus the sharp areas.
I can also change how blurry it is
outside of those two lines.
Now let's switch over to a circle
and you can see that the centre is in focus
but the outside is blurry.
Let me tap the X to get out.
I'm going to go back in, we'll take a look at stickers
and stickers simply allows you
to apply little stickers to your images.
I think we'll add some rain to this beautiful photo.
We can move that up and over, we can change the opacity
like a rain cloud out of that.
I could flip it right and left, up and down.
If I had multiple stickers on this image,
the next icon would allow me to bring them forward and back
with respect to each other but let's keep moving
and with it selected I could also delete it.
Do I want to delete the selected sticker?
Yes I do.
Let me hit the X to get out
and finally we have text.
When I first tap that it's going to invite me
to double tap to edit.
Let me put two lines in here and I'll tap the check
and now with two fingers I can pinch and zoom
to make that be larger and I can rotate it
and let's change the colour with this white button here
and I'm gonna change that to a dark red.
I can change the opacity but I think
I'll leave that alone for a moment.
Let me change the font and you'll see the font
in the words that you've actually written.
Let's choose something big and thick here
and then I can change the left and right justification.
I can change the kerning.
So I can change the spacing between the letters
horizontally and vertically.
I'm gonna go to the drop shadow.
I'll pick black for the drop shadow
and then I'm gonna change the blur radius
and you start to see it come out there a little bit
but you notice you can't quite see what's going on here.
So above that there's two numbers.
You see two zeros and they have chevrons
to the right and left and chevrons up and down.
That's going to slide our blur to the right or to the left
and down and up.
So let me start tapping and you can see
it starts moving to the right.
I can also tap and hold and drag to move it more quickly.
I'll then use the ones on the right to drag down
and you can see I've got a significant drop shadow.
With it selected, I can change the colour to pink
or let's try changing it to green
and that's how we can add text to an image with HashPhotos.
Let me hit the X to get rid of that.
Let me hit the back chevron
and I'm gonna tap discard changes
because I don't want to keep any of that
but now that you're familiar with those menus
tapping and holding on the edit menu,
you could go directly into something you wanted
like add stickers.
We're right into the interface very quickly
instead of having to drill down
through all the different menus.
We tap the X and I'll tap X again and I'll back out.
Let's do one final edit because I didn't show you yet
how to save.
Let me tap on the edit button and let's go into lighting
and let's go back to that highlights and shadows.
I'm gonna bring up the shadows so we can see that tree
and I'll bring the highlights down a little bit
and I'll tap the check box.
Now if I tap the backward arrow now,
it's going to say do you want to discard changes
and I don't want to discard changes this time.
I'm going to tap away from that and in the upper right
you can see a downward arrow into a box.
I'll tap that.
We have options to save a small, medium, large or full size
and we can choose whether or not
to have the metadata and location saved into this image.
By default it's turned off but I'll turn that back on
and I have an option to open that in another application.
I can email it, message it, Instagram it or save a copy.
Let me tap save a copy when I go back,
when I go back again,
you can see I have two versions of the same photo.
The one on the left is our original.
You can see it's a live photo.
Let me go back.
I'm gonna go into this one
and that's our new and improved version
but it is no longer a live photo.
You might think at this point
that I've showed you everything a photos app can do
but there's a lot more built into HashPhotos
and it's kind of buried in an interesting place.
Down in the bottom you'll see three dots
but I'm actually not going to be using those three dots.
In the upper right I'm going to tap on select
and I'm going to tap on this surfer.
You'll notice the bottom left has now changed
into the standard share button.
Let me tap on that.
In here you're going to see things that look
very very standard at first.
The top row is applications.
You can send a photo to but down below,
you've got the typical things like saved a drop box,
copy, print, assign to contacts and save to files
but as you keep going you're gonna get to some things
that are unique to HashPhotos.
We could favourite a photo and this Favorite
is the same as Favorites over in photos
but we can also change the location,
adjust the date and time and more.
I'm gonna tap away from this
and I'm gonna show you a use case for some of those things.
Let me cancel and I'm going to slide over to my albums here
and I'm gonna take you down to this bottom album.
This is a series of photos that I scanned into my computer
in December of 2011.
But these photos were not taken in December of 2011.
They were taken around July, maybe 1975.
Got several photos here in December
and then one showing in January of 2012.
But all of these photos really should be around 1975.
Well I would like to change the date on these photos
and HashPhotos makes it really really easy to do that.
So I'm going to tap on Select
and then I'm going to tap on the Select
next to December 2011 on the far right
that's going to select all of those photos.
Let me scroll up and I'll get this one
that says January of 2012.
Now that all those photos are selected,
I'm going to tap on the Share button.
I'm going to scroll over
and we're going to skip over Set Location for the time being
and I'm going to tap on Adjust Date/Time.
Now I'm given a menu of Custom or Time Shift
and let me show you Time Shift first.
That's not what I need to use now
but there are times where you take your phone with you
and maybe the time zone didn't get set correctly
or perhaps you have a big camera, an SLR
or a mirrorless camera,
and you forget to change the time on it,
and it doesn't set the time correctly when you go on travel.
I have that problem, I forget to do that
and then my photos from my big camera
and my photos from my iPhone
don't line up with the same times
so they get all messed up in my photos albums.
With this, you could time shift by single-hour increments.
So if you're off by two hours in timezone
you could just change it by two hours.
Again that's not the problem we're solving with these photos
but I wanted to show you
that that's a very, very useful option
and I will definitely be using that.
Back on the Custom tab we can be very precise about this.
Unfortunately I don't know the precise date of these photos
but I can tap into date and I'm gonna set these to 1975
is about when I said it was.
Let's keep going it's gonna be 1975
and we're gonna go with, how about July.
July 3rd that sounds great
and I have no idea what time they were
but I've got a toggle down here that can change the time
or I can leave that off and now I'm going to tap Adjust
and all of those photos just changed to July of 1975.
I think this is a fantastic feature
and I've never seen anything that does it this easily.
Again, these changes are now reflected in my photos library
on my phone, on my iPad and on my Mac.
Now let's set the location for these.
I didn't have location on when I scanned in the photos
so I'm gonna select them again.
I'm gonna just tap July of 1975, select all
and a tap on the share button
and now I'm gonna scroll over here in this bottom row
and I'm gonna set the location.
I'm gonna search for the city.
My parents had a boat in Redondo Beach,
wants to know my contacts,
I'm not going to do that right now
'cause I don't need to look up a contact.
I'm just looking up a city
so I'm going to tap Don't Allow.
Type in Redondo Beach then I hit search
Redondo Beach California and now I can hit save
and all of those photos now think they were taken
in July of 1975 in Redondo Beach.
Let me tap on a photo here and I'll tap the I
and you can see it says Thursday July 3rd, 1975
and it's showing a location down in Redondo Beach.
That's not actually at the harbour
so it's not quite where I meant to put it
but you understand what I was doing here.
Let me swipe down and I'll swipe down again.
I think this is a fantastic feature
and probably one of the things I'm most excited about,
using HashPhotos.
Now I can swipe to my right
and I'm going to go back to all photos
and I'll swipe to the left again
and if I scroll all the way to the top,
you'll see I've got photos in 1975.
There's my July 1975 and you can see
the photos have been placed correctly now.
Let's take a look at another way
to change the location on your photos
especially doing a mass change to photos.
On screen here you can see a bunch of photos
that were all taken at night of a Falcon-9 rocket launch.
There are five photos in the middle there
that you can see the live symbol on
so you know those photos were taken by my iPhone.
I took the other photos using my Olympus mirrorless camera
and I don't have the location on those.
Let me open up one of these photos
and I'm going to tap the I to see to the right
and you can see it has the location down on the beach.
I'm going to tap the three dots in the upper right
and you can see a lot of information about the photo.
If I scroll all the way, down at the bottom
you can see the location information.
If I tap anywhere here, you can see it says Location Copied.
You can tap on altitude, on image direction,
anywhere in that section
and it'll copy the location information.
I'm going to tap done and I'll tap away
and let me go back and let me choose one of these photos
like this one and the bottom right there.
This one does not have location information.
I'm going to tap the I
and it says there's no location information.
If I tap once on the map it's going to immediately assume
I mean that last copied location and I can tap save
and now that photo has location information.
Let me tap the picture and go back
and I could select all of these photos
that were taken with my other camera.
See let's just take them all.
The interface is a little bit different
when you're doing a batch change like this.
We're going to use the share menu in the bottom left
and I'm going to scroll over until I see set location
and it's going to immediately assume
that copied location and I tap save.
And now if I go into any one of these photos,
let's say this one right here and I'll tap the I
and it shows the location information
has been added to all of those photos.
HashPhotos makes it really easy
to add location information to your images.
Next let's take a look at a feature
that does exist in Apple Photos
but is really easy to use in HashPhotos.
Let me select these three construction photos
and let's say I didn't want to have that in my photo album
when I'm showing it to someone.
Let me tap the share button.
I'm going to slide over to hide
and it's gonna allow me to hide these three photos
I'm gonna tap it once and it's going to ask me a second time
and now these three pictures are going to disappear.
I go back over to albums and under smart albums,
at the very bottom there you can see it says Hidden (3)
and if I tap on that, you can see the three hidden photos.
These photos will be hidden on photos on the Mac and on iOS
outside of HashPhotos.
I'm gonna select all three photos so I'll hit select
and I'll hit the select button to the right of October
and I'll tap my Share button and I slide over
and now it has changed to be called Unhide.
When I tap that, it's gonna automatically
put the pictures back and you'll now see this is empty.
So I'll go to albums back to photos and when it comes up,
those three photos will be visible again.
With HashPhotos, we can convert a live photo
to a still photo.
That means it's gonna strip off the little video file
that goes along with the live photo.
Let me tap on the picture of this dog.
You can see that it's kind of moving around
and I don't actually care that that's a live photo
that may be taking up disk space,
for some other reason I wouldn't want it to be a live photo.
Let me tap back I'm gonna select and tap on that image
and now I'll tap our share menu
and I'm going to scroll across
and you can see live photo to still.
Tap that once it's going to say
do you want to convert the live photo to the still photo
and it warns you the still photo will be saved
and the original live photo will be deleted
and a tap convert and it's going to give us another warning.
It's gonna say "Are you sure?"
Do you really want to allow this photo
to be deleted the live photo
and that live photo will be deleted from iCloud photos
on all of your devices.
I'm going to say delete and now you see the symbol went away
and when I tap on the photo it's a still photo.
Down on the bottom left of our main grid view,
you'll see a button with three dots.
Let me tap that and you can do
a couple of different things here
but I want to have you focus on the little broom here.
When I tap on that it shows you
two of the most amazing features in HashPhotos.
It can find duplicates in your library
and it can find similar photos.
Similar photos are maybe even a bigger problem
than duplicate photos.
It's very common practise to take multiple photos
of the same thing say a group photo
and we want to make sure we get a great photo
so we take a bunch of them.
But in Apple Photos on any device on the Mac or on iOS
it's incredibly tedious to figure out which one is the best.
If you're like me, you hesitate to delete the similar photos
and you end up keeping them all,
cluttering up your photos library.
HashPhotos will allow you to find similar photos
and triage them easily and painlessly
in an intuitive interface.
Now I'm not actually going to do it at this level however
because with my giant library,
there were actually 11,037 seven similar photos
and it took about six minutes to identify them.
So I'm probably not going to go through that
and that's kind of daunting so let's go an easier path.
Now slide to the left and I'm gonna go to December of 2017.
In here you can see there are several photos
of me and my husband and my dog
in front of a Christmas tree.
I'm gonna select by hitting the select button
and I'm gonna select all of December
and now down in the share button, I'm gonna slide over
and you can see find similar photos.
Now the nice thing is that allows me
to just take that one month
and see how many things I have that are similar.
So let me tap find similar photos
and it takes just a few seconds
and you can see it's found about 50 of them.
Let me scroll up to the top here.
There are several that are similar
and up at the very top you can see
these photos of us with our dog.
In the bottom left we have a square icon with three dots
and if I tap that, I can change what kind of information
is showing right on the photos.
By default it's none but I can tap on dimensions
and this can be handy if you have say a high resolution
and a low resolution option of the same photo.
I do that a lot.
I'm not even sure how I always caused it
but I do have a lot of those.
In this case, that isn't the problem.
Let me tap down here we can look
at what time they were taken
or we could look at the file size.
In this case that's not terribly helpful information
so let me tap and go to none.
Now the real trick here is when you go to compare.
HashPhotos has decided that the first three are very similar
and the second three are similar to each other.
So we're just going to have to deal with three photos here
at the same time.
If I tap on Compare in the upper right,
it's going to show us two of the photos side by side.
On the left you can see it is numbered this photo number one
and it says it's the best photo.
You can also see that we have the dimensions
and the size and the file type in this case,
HEIC see telling us about this photo.
You can also see that we have the RGB
and luminance histograms to show us
maybe one photo is better than the other one,
maybe one is blown out.
In this case that's probably not going to be
too much information for us.
Now here's where the real power comes in.
I'm going to zoom in with two fingers
on the photo on the left and you'll notice
that it's zooming in on the photo on the right
at the same time.
So from here, I could decide which one of these photos
I liked better.
I mentioned the best photo's on the left
but the right photo is number two.
Let me tap the star at the bottom
and you'll see that number two is on the left now
but it has now been declared the best photo.
So let's say I don't really like this photo on the right
but I wanted to look at that third photo.
I can scroll like this from right to left
and now I've got a different photo to compare
and I look at those two and I say wow,
that's really my favourite photo.
So I could take this photo and give it a star
and now that is considered my favourite best photo.
It's got the best exposure, it's got everything I like.
At this point, I could tap the delete
and I could delete all that I haven't chosen
or just delete this current photo.
I'm gonna leave that alone
but you can see how easy it is to zoom in
and maybe you've got a group photo
like I talked about before and you're looking to see
whether Uncle Harry has his eyes closed or Aunt Sue
has got her mouth open.
What's going on in that photo?
You can figure out which one's the best
because you can zoom in and look very closely
at both of them at the same time.
Now you may not want to zoom them at the same time
and the gear down in the bottom left
is going to help you with that.
We tap on that, we can click on this sync zoom scroll button
and now if I zoom one photo,
it zooms but the other one does not.
Personally I like it with the syncing on.
I mentioned already that we can see
the size and file type and file size at the top
but down at the bottom we have the EXIF information,
the detailed information about how this photo was taken.
For example I know the f-stop, I know the speed,
I can see the zoom of the lens, the exposure,
the ISO and which phone took that photo.
If I tap on the gear again, I can hide that information.
I tap again, I could hide the histogram.
This other way to compare
is by going to Overlay Compare Mode.
I'm going to tap on that and now you only see one photo.
At the top you can see it says that's photo number two
and that's the candidate
but if I press on the white star on the right,
if I tap it and hold I can toggle back and forth
between number three which I had declared was the best photo
and number two which is one of the candidates.
So I can go back and forth and look at the two of these
and say okay they're almost exactly the same
but I like that one better and so yes,
three is my best photo.
It's a real easy way to go through your photos,
triage quickly and see which ones you like the best.
I'm gonna tap done and now we can do one other thing.
We can declare these photos not similar.
You see where it says Compare in the upper right,
there's a ≠ sign.
If I tap that, I can say no these photos
are actually all different.
I want to keep all three of them
and you can mark them as different.
I think that this ability to compare photos
in this quick and easy interface that's so intuitive
is going to really help me clean up my library
and maybe get rid of those 11,000 similar photos
in the future.
Let me tap done.
I'd like to do a quick example of where you have two photos
of different resolution and you can pick which one to keep.
Let me scroll up here
and in here I have a set of photos that are similar.
So I'm going to select
and I'm going to tap these photos right here
and I don't remember which one is similar
so I'm going to tap on this button here
and a slide across and have it show me find similar photos.
So now it knows these are the same
but if I look at these top two photos,
they look exactly the same to me and they actually are
but let's go here and tap on dimensions
and now you can see that the one on the left
is 3024 x 4032 and the one on the right
is much, much smaller.
I'm going to scroll up
and that's actually a different photo.
So when I go in here and I say to compare,
I need to turn off overlay mode
and I'm going to look at them side by side
and the one on the right is smaller than the one on the left
so I'm going to delete this photo
and I'm going to say delete current
and it's going to delete just that one photo
that was smaller and now the third photo just came in
and took place number two and it's just a candidate.
Well I can't bear to get rid of either one of those
but I could easily get rid of the ones
where it's a lower resolution.
Let's tap done and we're gonna get out of here
by tapping done again and we'll go back to Albums
and we're back to where we started.
Let's select a few pictures from a recent visit
to the aquarium here.
See each of those looks pretty good
and I'm going to go to the share button and this time,
we can create a slideshow.
I can choose a theme either push or dissolve.
I can choose music if I want to but we'll say none for now.
We can choose how long to hold the slide.
I think two seconds is about as long
as anybody wants to see a slideshow.
We can choose to repeat or not
or we could also shuffle our pictures
and that's all there is to do to start a slideshow.
So every two seconds you're going to see
these photos flip through and you can see a slideshow.
Let me tap away and tap done and I'm gonna cancel.
Let me select the same four photos.
One, two, three, four.
I'm gonna go back into Share and I'm gonna go over here
and you can create an animated GIF with hash photos.
You don't have a lot of controls
so you simply get the photos and they're going to blink by
and down in the gear we can simply change the delay
of how long there is between the photos changing.
It's a quick way to knock out an animated GIF.
With those same four photos selected, let's go back in.
We're gonna go over and one of the fun little things
you can do here is you can create a film strip
either combining vertically or horizontally your images.
Let's do it horizontally and you can see the four images.
Down on the bottom left
I can add a separation between the images,
pull them apart a little bit, I'll tap done
I can add a frame on them and you can't quite see it.
It's white so let me tap done
and I'll tap the right side here let's make that blue.
Hit the check box and now our frame is blue.
We can also round our images.
It's a quick way to make a fun little film strip.
I've switched over to the iPhone
just so you can see the experience there
and I'm showing it on my desktop of my Mac
because I'm going to show you a really terrific feature.
Let me tap on select and I'm gonna choose
those same four photos we were looking at before.
Tap the share button and go all the way across
and there's one feature
I have been skipping telling you about
because it's a little more complex to show you
but it's send to Mac or PC.
This is going to allow me to transfer photos
directly from my iPhone to my Mac or PC
without having to go through any other applications.
I'm going to tap on send a Mac or PC.
It's now browsing my network looking for a device
that's running the HashPhotos transfer application.
They tell you to go to beyondf.com/hashphotos
and that's where I am in Safari right here.
I have to scroll past all of the information
about the regular HashPhotos
to get down to the transfer programme.
It's almost at the very bottom, here it is
and right here you can download for the Mac or for Windows.
I've already downloaded it, installed it on this computer
but it was very very small and took hardly any time at all.
So let me pop this down
and I'm gonna launch HashPhotos transfer.
Let's move it over to the right hand side here
and now it's waiting for connection for my phone or iPad.
You can see on my iPhone it is recognised
that the 2016 MacBook Pro is available.
So I'm going to tap on that.
As soon as I do, my Mac is going to say
do you want to accept this connection.
I would like to accept that connection.
Now on the iPhone you can see that it's changed
to showing that I'm going from my iPhone to my MacBook Pro
and it wants me to push the send button
and it's showing me that I'm gonna send four photos
and watch quickly on the Mac when I tap send,
that's how fast it transferred those four photos.
When I tap on this folder, it's going to show you
where I've got my photos and is putting them in pictures,
HashPhotos 2018, 08 and there are my photos.
I've actually practised this a couple of times
so we'll go down and look at each one of these,
those the ones that just came in.
So this is a very very quick way to do this
and it's just completely uncomplicated.
You just tap and go.
Let's pop this down and look at the very few settings
in HashPhotos transfer.
We can choose the default location for HashPhotos,
we can go over to import,
we can choose to use the default location
we set on the first tab or we can tell it to ask every time
when we download photos.
We can change the subfolder format if we choose
and we can choose how to have the file named.
Right here is devices and this is my iPhone.
If I were to select this and hit the delete key,
it would no longer be a trusted device.
Now all I would simply have to do
is accept that incoming connection a second time
but I can see how this would be handy
if you give away a device or sell a device
or maybe you let someone transfer photos to your computer
and you want to then revoke that access.
Let's close this down and I just think
this is a fantastic way to use HashPhotos
to move photos from your iOS devices over to your Mac or PC.
I've flip back over to the iPad
because I think it's easier for us
to be able to see what's going on.
Back down in the bottom left I'm gonna tap the dots again
and going to the + and let's take a look
at Paste from URL and Paste.
Let me tap away and I'm gonna go over to Safari
and I've got a picture of the AppleCare logo here.
I'm gonna press and hold and copy.
I'll go back over to HashPhotos.
You tap this I'll tap + and now you can see paste
and Paste from URL are available.
I'll tap Paste
and now you can see the Apple logo is in my photos library.
Let's go back over here.
Let me flip over to the second tab.
I have a giant mind map here
of how I did a full nuke and pave of my Mac just recently
to go to Mojave and I want to grab this one by the URL.
So I'm gonna tap on here and that's my entire URL.
Let me tap on it, tap copy and now we'll go back over here.
I'll tap the three dots, + and now Paste from URL
is the only thing that's highlighted.
I'll tap that and in a few seconds,
you should see this photo
come into my photos library as well and there it is.
We also can import from our camera or from iTunes
but I think we've done enough in that menu for now.
The last thing under the three dots is the settings
and this is setting specifically for this album.
So right now it says use global options.
If I uncheck that I can change the sort order,
I can change whether things are grouped
by month, year or day.
I mentioned that we can look at square
versus rectangular images.
I can set that here, I can change the size
and I can choose whether to have additional info
shown on every photo but again,
these are just specifically for the album,
not the global settings.
I'm gonna put the global settings back and tap done.
If we want to look at global settings,
let's just go over to our albums in the bottom left
you'll see the gear.
I'll tap on that and unfortunately,
there are so many settings
I'm not going to be able to take the time
to go through all of them.
I'll highlight a couple, though.
So the thumbnail shows again
how we can show by group by month.
We've talked about that just a minute ago,
we can change from square icons
to the full rectangular icons.
We can change the size of the images
that we're looking at here.
Badges are kind of interesting.
You can turn on and off what badges are showing
as you work through your albums.
You go back.
We've got the theme, we've got a dark theme here,
we could change that, we're gonna go into General.
You can see there's just a ton of different options here.
You might want to look at what quality JPEGs
you want to share like for example
when you send a Mac or PC
maybe you want to change that to maximum
or maybe you want it to be low quality.
We'll go back if we look at Privacy, you can change globally
whether or not metadata, location,
tag and memo are included.
We haven't talked about tag and memo yet.
That's the last thing I'm going to be showing you.
So metadata and location.
Maybe metadata is okay.
You don't mind showing someone what ISO you took a photo at
but maybe you want to always have your location stripped
whenever you're sharing photos to social media
and like I said, there are a lot of different options
you can go through here and we don't really have time
to go through every single one
but I wanted to show you where those were located.
Let me tap done and I'll swipe to put this away.
Let's take a look at tags and memos in HashPhotos.
The reason I saved this to the end
is this is the one piece of data that you'll be working with
with HashPhotos that does not transcend
over to Apple Photos and that's really unfortunate
and I'm sure that if the HashPhotos people
could get that to work, they certainly would.
I suspect this is a limitation from Apple
but it's still very valuable if you find yourself
working in HashPhotos quite often.
So let me tap on the picture of this rose
and I'm going to tap the badge icon
in the middle on the bottom right.
You can see the tags I've used previously
and I'm going to tap on iPhone XS
because this photo was taken with that.
It's also a flower but in this case it's a rose.
Let me hit enter and now I've got three tags on that photo
and I can tap Save.
You can see in the bottom left,
the three tags that I've added to this photo.
Additionally I could add a memo
and that's the icon on the far right
but the leftmost of the three.
I tap there I can type in a memo
and I'll tap save.
So now you can see the memo down below
and you can see all of the tags.
The power of tags comes in on the search
that's built into HashPhotos.
I'm going to tap back and then in the bottom right,
we've got a little search icon
and you can see that I can search by tags or by location.
Let me tap on tags and you'll see
that I could search right now
for all of the photos taken of flowers
and I'll say search and it should just come up
with those two photos.
There's the plumeria I tagged to the other day
and the rose you just saw me tag.
What you're seeing down on the bottom right is a tooltip
it's saying I could reset the search by tapping that again
or I could tap to continue to get out of that tooltip.
So I found that so I can tap here.
I can go back into tags and I can try searching
by, say, flower and rose and now,
it should just find that one photo.
Let me tap on the search again, go back into tags,
I'll get rid of these two tags and say show all
and we'll go back to seeing all of our photos.
In settings there's an option
to sync your tags and memos through iCloud Photo Library
or do a manual sync through Dropbox or iCloud.
In my experience however, none of that actually works.
So I was not able to sync my tags and memos
between my iOS devices.
Now let's take a look at search by location.
I'll tap on search in the location icon
and it brings up a map of the world
showing you where you've taken your photos.
Let me tap on these pictures from Dubai
and immediately you'll see pictures of the Burj Kalifa
and Steve and I in Dubai.
If I tap and hold on the icon for search,
that will take me back directly to the full album view
without having to back out of my search criteria.
There's some very interesting characteristics
of the way search is implemented in HashPhotos.
Let's go into search by tag again.
You'll notice across the bottom in the grey bar there,
I don't have a keyboard showing
because I have an external keyboard attached
but you'll see a hash tag and an at symbol less than,
greater than, equals, times and not.
And I'll show you what those mean.
If I tap on the hash tag, they'll give you examples
of all the things that you can search by.
In the first example they're using the exclamation point
which in programming means not.
So it's showing you that you could say, doesn't have a tag
not #tag.
You can say not in an album.
You could say media type is a photo, a video, a JPEG.
You can search by a lot of different criteria here.
Let's take a look at this #gif
and we'll say search and in a few seconds
it comes up with all of the GIFs I have.
We can tap on one you can see Pluto with Pluto.
Let's go back and we'll go back in to search,
back into tags.
Let me take that one out will tap the hash tag again
so you can do this by location in album
and they give you some examples when you go into this.
We can see if things are in favourites in albums.
I mean the list goes on and on
and they give you a lot of different options here.
The one I had high hopes for was the one that says
file name:text and I was hoping
that that would search by the title of the photo.
I happen to title all of my photos over in Apple Photos
but this is actually the file name just as it says.
So it might be file name IMG_6520
and I was really, really hoping
that they had access to the title information.
Again I suspect that Apple is not revealing that to them
and that's why you can't search by that.
I have asked whether it's possible to search by title
but I have not heard back from them yet.
Let me take out the hash tag
and we'll take a look at the @ symbol.
The examples demonstrate that you can search by date
using the @ symbol.
Let me take that out.
If I tap on the less than symbol,
you can see this allows you to search for photos by size.
This might come in really handy
when you're looking for those tiny photos
that you really want to get out of your library
that are cluttering things up
or possibly look for very very large photos.
You can see if you say greater than or equal to 2048 by zero
means the width is greater than or equal to 2048.
So maybe you want to get rid of some really large photos.
The multiply symbol down below the little X
is not highlighted right now
but that's because I haven't typed anything in.
If I type in say 1024, now I could say by 768, let's say.
That lets me search for photos
that are smaller than 1024 x 768.
We back out of that.
We'll just hit cancel and I'll press and hold
my search button and reset our search criteria.
Now I've taught you an awful lot today
and I'm guessing you're gonna forget some of it.
The good thing is that HashPhotos
has a help file that's visual.
Let me pull over here and tap on the question mark.
There's a lot of different information here
about all the features of HashPhotos
and they're done as visual guides.
So for example let's say you don't remember
how to open the map view.
If I tap an Open Map View, you're gonna see
you have screenshots walking you through
how to do this process.
Let me tap that I we'll tap done.
(light music)
That's it for this week,
we'll be back next week
with another ScreenCastsOnline tutorial.
(SCO theme music)