(forceful exhale)
- All right, did the whole thing
as if I'm Sylvester Stallone.
Oh, this is great. Yo, Adrian.
What's going on everybody.
Thanks so much for tuning in to Chemical Guys Detail Garage.
Today we have this beautiful Challenger in the shop
and we've already washed it and clayed it
but now we're gonna move on to the protection stage
because this vehicle sits outside
where it's gonna be exposed to water spots, contamination
and all kinds of harmful UV rays
that could be damaging the clear coat.
So today we're gonna show you how to properly protect it
as well as enhance some of that shine and metallic flake.
(logo chimes)
So to begin, we've already washed this vehicle
and clayed it to remove the embedded contaminants
that are in the pores of the paint,
and that's given a really slick finish
and now we're gonna skip over to the polishing step
and move right on into the protection stages
but first we want to use quick detail spray
just to remove any kind of light dust
or any fingerprints that may have accumulated
on the vehicle as it was sitting
and this is great for any color vehicle
but I like to use it on dark colored cars
to not only clean it in between car washes,
but also to enhance gloss.
We're also gonna use a green microfiber towel
and we're just going to roll away all the dust and dirt
that was on the surface, even though it's fairly clean,
this is just a great precautionary step to take
just so we're not grinding anything into the surface
as we actually put on our coatings.
There we go.
Flip over to the fresh side,
the buff away the excess or the streaks and runs.
Like I said the car, was already clayed because
we want to make sure that we have the best bond
between our coating which we're gonna use a wax for today.
But a clean surface makes it easier
and also makes a longer lasting bond between
whatever you're going to put on the surface whether it's a
glaze or a ceramic sealant, or wax.
We're just gonna focus on this fender
and a little bit of the hood here just to show you guys,
just to demonstrate the proper procedures.
So now that's nice and clean we're going to move on to
applying our wax but as you see the paint is very,
it's a very dark color which has
a lot of metallic flake in there.
So we've chosen a wax that's going to not only enhance that,
but also protect that and that's gonna be
Pete's 53 Black Pearl.
This is a paste wax that
has natural blend of carnauba in there
and all I have to do is melt some onto your applicator pad.
(light scraping)
This is a hand applied only wax,
which is typical for most paste waxes just because it
will be really difficult to get some of this onto a
machine polisher.
(light scraping)
And just like when you're applying any kind of coating
You wanna first dab it out
and then start it working back and forth into the surface
that you are applying or protecting.
And you can use this on essentially any color
but this works really well on dark colors
and dark colors that have metallic flakes such as this one.
(pad squeaking)
And this will start bonding immediately so
we can either allow it to cure for about five to 10 minutes
depending on the ambient temperature,
or you can simply buff it off after you've already
applied it to your section.
I would recommend doing a panel at a time if you're gonna
wipe off after every section.
(pad squeaking)
What I like to do is I'll go over one direction,
and then we'll come back using the opposite direction
just to ensure that we're not missing anything or
leaving any high spots.
A lot of people have trouble with buffing off
the wax after it's cured but that's typically because
either it was a heavy coat or you allowed it too long to
sit on the surface and then hardened.
So what I would recommend doing is
using a cross-hatching pattern.
This will thin out the coat makes it easier to buff off
and it's also going to spread it which will
save the product.
A thin coat is only need because initially the only
layer that's bonding is gonna be that first layer
that touches the surface.
So a lot of people wannna know if you put a heavy coat on
will give you more shine and more protection.
And what I would recommend doing
is just apply a secondary coat.
So you can apply two thin coats and that's going to give you
a longer lasting bond but it's also going to give you
a better bond with more protection.
And as you see here, it's already
basically started to haze up so now we're going to
take clean microfiber towel and wipe off the excess
and I like to use a Happy Ending towel just because
this is a very soft, plush towel that has very high fibers
or very plush pile and this'll pickup all the product or
any kind of waxes or polishes, glaze, sealants
without scratching the surface,
and now we're unveiling that high shine.
What's also great is this makes the surface feel
really slick so this improves your hydrophobic properties.
Let's say you have a ceramic coating on your vehicle,
this is a great way to boost it or if you don't have that,
you just want a simple old school traditional style wax,
this will still give you hydrophobic properties
to help repel water spots.
It also reduces dust clings, so it's gonna make it harder
for things to land on the surface and stick to it.
So this will keep your car looking cleaner for longer.
It's also just a great way to maintain the exterior
of your vehicle giving a beautiful shine
as well as a long lasting layer protection.
A lot of people want to know how long a paste wax lasts and
typically it's not gonna last as long as a cream would
because there's different kinds of polymers added to it,
but this wax alone with proper maintenance and also
proper application, you can probably get about four months
out before I need to reapply it but I would recommend doing
it maybe once every other month just to boost it
and also maintain it.
So now after buffing off the spent product which I mentioned
that we can take it off almost immediately.
This wax is great because it's a simple wipe on wipe off
method, but I would still recommend using a soft towel
such as a Happy Ending and also using linear motions.
Linear and meaning that you can use a
cross-hatching pattern, straight lines,
but you want to avoid doing any kind of
swirling motion because if you should pick up anything
or maybe the towel wasn't clean and it creates a swirl,
a swirl is very easy to notice and it's also a lot harder
to polish out as opposed to a straight line scratch.
And also you see that the gloss has been really enhanced.
The vehicle looks really wet also it feels really smooth.
The wax has added a protective coating
that's going to help repel any kind of harmful elements
while also making it super hydrophobic.
What's also great is it's going to enhance the
metallic flake so for those of you guys that are looking to
enhance the depth of your vehicle while also adding
protection, I highly recommend using Pete's 53.
And one final thing is when you're working around
rubber trim or a plastic component, you always wanna avoid
putting any kind of polished ceramic clay sealant or waxes
on there because they are texturized which means
they're porous and they can also absorb wax which stains it
give me that nasty chalky look.
So, if you're working on an area like this where
you're uncomfortable with waxing just
either get as close to as possible without going over it
or you can always mask it off to avoid any kind of damage.
So guys, thanks so much for tuning in
and if you appreciated (upbeat music)
today's video, be sure to give it a thumbs up,
drop your comments down below for future videos.
We'll see you guys next time.
(music intensifies)
(chillstep music)