welcome back to another video my project for today is I'll be working on some
breaks and prepping them for something special but first I'm gonna give you a
little update on the cr250 build all right this is how she sits got the pegs
and triples mounted up on the frame and the frame is bolted down to the scissor
lift so most likely I'll finish up the engine get it bolted in and then start
building around that alright coming over to the shelf here suspensions all built
ready to go swing arms ready to bolt on and then the wheels are completely done
that's a big deal and then come up to the workbench where nothing is put
together engine is completely apart all the way down the crank tranny cases
clutch all that so I'll be getting parts in soon and I'll be starting the build
process one more box over here a bunch of fresh aluminum pieces so I've got a
lot of stuff that's ready to go the biggest thing holding it up is the
engine but I'm in no hurry I'm just taking my time and enjoying every step
of the process ok on to today's project I'll be disassembling all the brakes
sending up the master cylinders for welding and then prepping everything for
ceramic coating so the reason I have to print brake systems here is because I'll
be using a different front master cylinder I prefer the ones off of a
newer CRF this one's off of a 15 CRF 450 so I'm just gonna Rob the cylinder off
of it and sell the rest of it I find that the newer master cylinders work a
lot smoother than the older ones here's the difference between the two master
cylinders this is the one off the so three cr250 and this is the 15 the 15
uses a push rod style that has a lot of free motion in it whereas the O 3 just
uses a fixed piston so there's a lot more friction with the O 3 or the older
style whereas the newer style has a much smoother lever action this is kind of
getting off topic but while I'm on the subject of using newer parts there's a
few more things I robbed off the 15 as well so I've got the pegs and PEG mounts
to the peg mounts have this little dirt shield in front of it and then the pegs
are a lot wider and they don't pack up with
as easily and then I've got brake rotors off of a newer CRF as well these things
look so much better than the ones that came on the o3 and all this stuff just
bolts right on alright enough chatter the first thing to lock out is the tear
apart the CRF brakes
I'm gonna pull these master cylinders apart and get them ready for welding
I'll play about the welding a little bit later on so I think there are circlips
underneath the rubber boots here and that should expose the piston and I'll
be able to pull the guts out of the cylinder have you got the push rod out
and pulling this boot should expose the circlip yep as you can see there's a
circlip down in there and once I pull that the internals will come out of the
cylinder these are the circlip pliers that I'll be using just got two fine
points here on the end I had a switch off the tips on the pliers for the
angled ones since it's a really tight fit down here in the cylinder so I
rotated that circlip around so I have enough of a gap here just the squeeze
the pliers in and access that clip this is a really tight fit to be tough
getting this clip out of here
since I will be Sarah coding these master cylinders all the plastic glass
and rubber has to come off so there's a little plastic cap here on the inside of
the reservoir and I'll need to pop that out that's all there is to the front
master actually a lot less parts than I was imagining
now I'm gonna see what I can do with the rear the rear is much of the same just a
circlip underneath the boot
I've got these master stoners completely apart now and like I said earlier I'll
be sarkodie so this glass is gonna be an issue and that's why I'm sending him out
to get welded so both of these sight windows are gonna be closed off and
welded shut I'm sending him out to Clayton
over at trick engineering to do the work I'm sure a lot of you guys have heard of
them he does some amazing machining work and he does Sarah coding as well the
biggest reason why people well the site windows is because of something hits it
such as a rock from roost you'll lose your brake fluid and therefore your
brakes but for me it's mostly so I can seracote em but also doesn't hurt to not
have to worry about breaking those site windows - just for the heck of it since
these site windows are getting taken out anyways I'm gonna see how strong they
are I've always been curious about that so
say you're ripping along and someone kicks up a rock this size and just by
chance it hits your site window let's see what would happen so I've been
hammering on this glass with the rock and it's actually quite a bit stronger
than I imagined not really doing much to it let's see what the front sight window
is like so all in all the sight windows are actually pretty strong but I can't
simulate throwing a rock at 60 miles an hour coming off a rear tire either so
there's that all right the Masters are ready to ship out for welding and as
soon as I get them back I'll be sarah coating them so I mentioned trick
engineering a little bit earlier for you guys that want to have your site windows
welded up or any machining work or Sarah coding done make sure you get ahold of
Clayton over at trick engineering he is the master of ceremony by the way I'll
put his website down below at the very least just go check out his Instagram
he's got some amazing work over there now it is time to strip down the
calipers and I'll be trying out this motion pro caliper piston tool that I
grabbed from rocky mountain so from the looks of it this motion pro tool
it's inside the piston just like so and then you tighten down the allen head on
the end and that'll lock the tool into the piston and now you have leverage to
remove the piston from the caliper
I was able to work the piston most of the way out with tool and I should be
able to get the last little bit with my hand just be really careful not to
scratch the piston and when it pops out
I'm definitely glad I'm going through this caliper you can see down inside the
caliper there is little rubber bits from the seals and the seals are a little
eaten up as well another method for pushing out the Pistons is to put some
compressed air into the caliper and that'll push the Pistons out but make
sure you tuck a rag in where the piston sit that way they don't come flying out
since my air compressor gun just has this fine point on it I'll be blowing
air into the banjo bolt and if you have a two piston caliper like this one you
may have to hold one piston so that way the other one will come out so I put the
piston I pulled out back in and I'm gonna hold it with a socket and a clamp
here so that should hold this piston in well I can push the other one out as you
can see this other piston is starting to work its way out I'm just gonna keep
blowing some more air into the banjo bolt alright I pulled the clamp off and
I should be able to get both Pistons out with just applying a little bit more air
I was able to get both Pistons out of the caliper without somehow hurting
myself now I'm just gonna inspect them make sure there's no Nick's or scratches
here on the outside surface of the piston they both look pretty good so no
need for replacement on these now for removing the seals out of the caliper
I'll be using this 90 degree pick and you got to be really careful not to
scratch the inside bore of the caliper
with the rear caliper being a single piston this one should be easy-peasy
now there's just a couple things left to pull up the calipers to prep them for
seracote mainly the rubber pieces the bleeder valve and the carrier pins as
you can see I've got the brakes completely apart and real quick I'm just
gonna pick the winner for the giveaway from the last video I've got my comment
picker pulled up here just gonna run the video through and it'll pick a complete
random comment for you guys see how many comments we got 990 not bad alright who
we got Jeff segi Leah says 2010 CRF 250r so Jeff send me a message here on
YouTube with your shipping address and I'll have Rocky Mountain ship you one of
these wrenches with that out of the way it is time to do some sarah coding I'll
be coding the caliper carriers master cylinder caps and a few other odds and
ends and I'll wait until I get those masters back for welding to do the
calipers and master cylinders I'm gonna clean up a few these pieces over here on
the buffer using the rough scotch brite wheel that's available over on the
website and what this is gonna do is remove all the lettering and bring these
parts to a nice clean finish
all right I've got these parts all cleaned up and looking good and now I've
got the sanding drum set up on the buffer and this is gonna flatten out the
master cylinder covers perfectly I've got these parts sanded down and looking
pretty and now the first step in the sarah coding process is to soak these
parts in acetone for 30 minutes one thing I came across the use for a
container for acetone is some plastics are safe to use with acetone if you flip
it over and on the bottom here we've got the little triangle if it says PP
underneath the triangle or HDPE that means it is safe to use of acetone or
this type of plastic will hold up to acetone so I'll be using this one for
the soaking process and I'm sure most you know acetone evaporates really
quickly so nice to have a lid to contain the acetone in the container the next
step is sandblasting
this is what it looks like after the parts have been sandblasted and now I'm
gonna hang them from the rack and run them through the oven for a preheat
I'm gonna let these parts cool off and in the meantime I'm gonna mix up some
seracote materials this time around I'm gonna go with a tungsten color and I'm
gonna mix the color and the catalyst at a 12 to one ratio
after an hour of caring these guys should be good to go so I'm gonna pull
them out and take a look at them looking sweet pretty dang excited about this
color turned out awesome it should look really good with the calipers and master
cylinders speaking to them what color do you think I should do on them I've done
a tungsten this color right here and a burnt bronze on the triple clamps so
what color do you think would look good write it down below I've got a quick
update for you guys on prime MX just got some new inventory in stock and I'll be
launching it this upcoming Sunday April 15th at 10:00 a.m. Pacific that's 1 p.m.
Eastern so this hat right here will be part of the launch it is similar to the
other style head just with a few minor changes and I've also got a new hat
style as well all right here is the new hat style all black with a curved bill
got mesh on the back and a snap back just a nice clean simple look with some
subtle text here for you guys that like minimal branding and the other hat is
pretty similar just with a heather gray front and the
embroidery is actually 3d looks super cool so I got a feeling these are gonna
sell out really quick just like the previous launch did so mark your
calendars for Sunday April 15th so the next video and the brakes will be sarah
coding the calipers and master cylinders let me know what color you think I
should do and I've also got everything to completely rebuild the brakes so that
video will be coming soon too and big thank you to Rocky Mountain for sending
over this stuff alright that's it for today's video I look forward to seeing
you guys in the next one take care
you