reasons why there is a turbo failure in one of these 1.6 HDi engines what are the two main
reasons that cover roughly about 90% of all the turbo failures in the 1.6 HDi engines what can
you check more importantly how to prevent it stay tuned this is my 1.6 hdi Peugeot Partner engine
2007 roughly about 106 000 miles and the number one reasons for the failure of the turbos in these
1.6 HDi engines is the injector copper seal at the end of the injectors this picture here shows one
of these seals and i will show you what to look for what are the symptoms and what are the reasons
for this injector copper seals leading to turbo failures so this is injector number one on my 1.6
hdi engine and the closest to the gearbox because it's easier to film and what is the main symptom
of failing injector seals it's just a black tar around here where i'm pointing around here
everywhere around the seat of the injector so you have a black tar around here everywhere it will
be pretty black and hard carbon deposits i can compare it only to tar a bit of a closer look up
again this is just a zoom version so you're looking for a tar around here everywhere
around at the back of the injector around here everywhere around here there will be black tar
something like this on this picture so what is the connection between failing injector seal and
blowing a turbo or turbo failure in these 1.6 hdi engines you might ask and that's a very reasonable
question and here's the logic behind that so when the injector seal fails you've got exhaust gases and
unburned fuel coming up the injector there is a seal at the top of the injector rubber seal that seals
the injector from the crankcase this eventually because this becomes a very black hard tar this
forces its way through the seal and contaminates the crankcase contaminates the crankcase oil this
contaminated crankcase oil these are sometimes these are hard bits so these hard bits in the
crankcase in the oil eventually make their way to the turbo banjo bolt the lower banjo bolt has got
a little mesh i'll have a zoom version that's got a little mesh this gets blocked and the turbo
is starved of oil and then eventually the shaft or something else breaks because there is not enough
oil to cool turbo while it's spinning this is the top banjo bolt and this is the oil feed pipe
that goes from the crankcase it looks it looks something like this it goes around there this
is the top uh the top banjo bolt and there is a bottom banjo bolt here as well and that's the
that's the bottom banjo bolt so this banjo bolt the mesh on this banjo bolt has a really small
surface area and gets clogged very easy this mesh was superseded by this particular filter that is
much longer it's plastic not metal this is from my one previous videos of replacing the 1.6 hdi in
this engines and it looks like this and the second main reasons for turbo failure or turbo blow up in
these 1.6 hdi engines is the use of incorrect oil and not frequent enough oil changes plus
oil filter in my booklet for the car it says every 12 000 miles or one year whichever comes first
some people would just say well i haven't driven in that year that much i won't do an oil change
and this is really one of the biggest factors after the injector seals what you need to do
is use the correct oil so for example something like this i'm using Total Quartz Ineo ECS
this is a fully synthetic oil 5w30 so this oil is low in saps so it's low in sulfated ash phosphorus
and sulfates so in other words it doesn't really contribute that much when there is some blow by it
doesn't contribute too much of the carbon in the oil in the crankcase so this is recommended by
Peugeot and Citroen i really recommend that i've always used that one and i never had a problem with my turbo
second of course shorten the interval changes of the oil, do it every six months or six thousand
miles whichever comes first and that's how you can all these soot from the oil you can pull them out
and the banjo bolt won't get clogged and you'll have a happy turbo so second part of the video can you
do something about these failing injectors seals yes and no and i'll try to explain so here is the
the first stud nut and there is one on the other side two uh from both sides these
eventually sometimes wiggle out due to the the heat expansion the contraction aging and so on so these
eventually might loose themselves out so what one can do is tighten these a bit these are normally
tightened 4 Nm plus uh 65 degree and it's a kind of angular tightening so it kind
of stretches the bolt slightly so you cannot really go nuts and just tighten this as as
hard as you can you can do that you might first time shear the bolt you might not but eventually
with tightening and tightening eventually this will these bolts will fail so what we can do is
so this is seven millimeter allen key so you could put it quite there use a torque wrench and
tighten it to about seven newton meters i wouldn't recommend any more probably about 10 newton meters
the maximum that one can do or you can just check it with six newton meters how tight this is that
bolt and that bolt and all two per injector so 8 bolts all together so it's very easy to get
to the front these stud nuts to the front of the injectors but the back is very difficult to get to
they're behind this injector wiring loom so one has to take that bolt that bolt and one down there i'll
remove that and show you how the bolts are of course one needs first to remove the connection
for the injections the electrical connections so there're 4 of these three are the same so i'll
show one of these and then i'll show that one as well so in order to undo the electrical component
of the injector i can have some plastic tool lift this clip a bit and then just pull out
the most left one or injector number four is just a squeezy type so you squeeze it here
and pull it out but it's a bit of a wiggle
eventually you squeeze it you squeeze it down here and eventually
it comes out next is to undo that bolt and it's a 10 millimeter socket
and a third bolt here which is also 10 millimeter socket
once all three bolts are removed this is just to give yourself a wiggle room
rather than removing the whole thing so the fuel return pipe will be clipped
by this clip so you have to pull this slightly move this aside then the next
they're slightly broken on mine you kind of move it only slightly don't push it too much
otherwise you might break this fuel lines and you kind of slightly wiggle it out you can also
remove the maf sensor if you want but it's just to give you a slight wiggle room just slightly
push it and of course i have a i'll have a upper shot but you could now this will go in there this
seven millimeter allen key could go in there and you can tighten it slightly and for the others
as well is the same thing you just move it only slightly and then you can kind of access those
so this is how the the two stud nuts look like one here and one there uh this is from from the top of
the injector uh one next to each other similar so here is the injector nut on the on the stud and
do not really go crazy on those at all these are angular tightened 4 newton meters plus 65 degree
this is depending on different forums and so on is roughly about 7.5 newton meters so with my torque
wrench i would do six you can't quite see it but this is a six newton meter so just until it clicks
so this is quite tight i know they are tight because i've tried them all
this is quite tight and i'll do the rest of them check them if they're less than six newton meters
so just checked all of my injectors all eight clamps and they're all more than six six newton
meters torqued so these are not loose i mean i have no carbon deposit but i do check this
once a year to make sure that they haven't loosened themselves now of course you can go
to higher than six newton meters you can go up to 10 newton meters that's probably about the maximum
that these bolts would sustain so do not go anything above 10 newton meters if you
if you go anything above 10 newton meters you're risking tightening it every time and
eventually these these bolts would snap of course fitting it back together you have to put this in
back in place the three bolts and the connection for the injectors
so if you already found tar around the injectors straight away replace the injector seals no matter
how much you tighten them you might potentially tighten them and leaking might stop but it's still
better to replace this injector seal straight away if you don't have any tar around the injectors or
there might be a bit of a from oil for example from the oil filler cap there might be some oil
it looks like a tar and it's not just oil so you can just wipe it off and see if it it
comes up more if it's not there is not buildup of tar definitely check this tightening of these stud
nuts in order just to keep it in check and not to wiggle themselves out so this is it these are the
two main reasons why the turbos fail in these engines or why the turbos in the 1.6 hdi engine
blow up one is the injector seals they either fail with age due to the heat cycle of the engine
all the stud nuts loosen up a bit so the same thing the injector gets a bit loose so the
gases and unburnt fuel can get pass through they become the star material go through the
oil seal and eventually end up in the crankcase oil congeal they could be
these they could turn into these carbon particles because this is really hard this tar
and eventually they block the banjo bolt then of course they starve the turbo of oil and you get
a blown turbo the second primary reason is the use of incorrect oil and not frequent oil changes
half the oil changes instead of every year do it every six months or every six thousand miles
and use low sap oil use fully synthetic low sap oil so low in sulfated ash phosphorus and sulfates
because this is a sooty engine it produces a lot of carbon produces a lot of soot so you want as
frequent as possible to draw out this carbon not to stay there too long and block this banjo bolt
mesh some people might say i haven't driven that yet that much i only drove three thousand miles
i'm not gonna change the oil change it every six months or six thousand miles whichever comes first
then the turbo will be happy the engine will be happy and you have a car to drive for a long time
of course there could be other reasons for turbo failures but there's miner so
for example a foreign body could be introduced in the air intake hits the propeller of the turbo and
this of course creates imbalances and then can break and the turbo could blow so for example
somebody was changing the filter to introduce some small bits and pieces and this spins with a
huge amount of rpm and just a small particle could really hit it and this can blow out so
thank you very much hopefully you enjoyed that video i really enjoyed making it let
me know for any comments in the comment section hopefully that is useful to someone
how to avoid turbo failure in these engines thank you very much indeed for watching hopefully you