- Manifolds can be super complicated
and require a ton of plumbing knowhow,
but I'm gonna show you how to build a simple one
off of your already existing return pump.
In our hobby, a manifold is one or more valves
plumbed into a central line and operated with a single pump.
Most often, a manifold is plumbed into the return line.
But depending on your need and your system,
a manifold can be a closed loop system
plumbed into a separate pump.
Here's a manifold in its most basic form.
Plumbed into the return line with a single valve.
And here is a rather convoluted example of a manifold
from my waterbox frag tank right there.
It has several valves and several twists and turns.
The purpose of a manifold.
Manifolds are an efficient way
to control several different pieces of gear
with a single pump.
Most commonly, manifolds power reactors
especially carbon reactors and GFO reactors.
But you can also use them
for cheto reactors, calcium reactors, Kalkwasser reactors
any sort of reactor that needs water flowing through it.
But beyond reactors, manifolds are also fantastic
for powering UV sterilizers and algae scrubbers.
Tips and tricks for doing a manifold right.
The first consideration is absolutely the size of the pump.
Since a manifold utilizes a single pump,
you will need to calculate
just how much flow you're going to need
since you're gonna be powering more than one thing.
I highly recommend doing all of your calculations
figuring out how many gallons per hour you need
and then purchasing a controllable DC pump
that is one size bigger than you think you need.
Some great options for manifolds
are the Reef Octopus VarioS,
Neptune systems COR, Sicce Syncra SDC
and the Ecotech Marine Suite of the SM and L2.
I really like all four of the options
because they have the ability
to be plumbed internally or externally.
A second tip and trick has to do with PVC size.
I got some great advice from a plumber once
and she told me the trick with getting the maximum power
out of your manifold is to use the largest size PVC
for as long as possible,
and only downsize when you get to the valve.
For example, if your return pump has a one inch output
but your reactor has 1/2 inch input,
use that one inch PVC all the way
until you get to the valve,
then use a one inch to 1/2 inch bushing to reduce it down.
Waiting as long as possible
to reduce it down to that 1/2 inch
will give you as much pressure as possible.
I highly recommend using Cepex double union ball valves
for three reasons.
Reason number one is they are heavy duty
and will last a really long time.
The reason number two,
the valve handle is super easy to turn,
especially when compared to its schedule 40 counterpart.
And reason number three, the double unions make the valve
easy to adjust and remove for cleaning.
Tip and trick number four, elbows.
90-degree elbows drastically reduce
the efficacy of your manifold.
As I've made it clear before,
I have no understanding of science
and I even have less of an understanding of fluid dynamics.
But I do know this, that for every-90 degree elbow
you install, the maximum gallon per hour
output of your manifold is reduced drastically.
Just to give you a clear example.
I have a Neptune COR-15 powering my manifold.
It has a maximum output of 1500 gallons per hour.
I installed a Neptune FMK flow meter
and I can report at 100%.
The maximum flow to my UV sterilizer
is well under 400 gallons per hour.
That's not great, but it is expected
because I have three 90-degree elbows installed
between the core and the UV sterilizer.
So the tip and trick here
is to use as few 90-degree elbows as possible.
And whenever possible, substitute a 90-degree elbow
with two 45-degree elbows.
Now into the meat and putting portion of the video,
how to install a manifold?
Just as there are an unlimited number of ways
to play the game of chess,
there are an unlimited number of ways to install a manifold.
Sometimes they are straightforward
and other times they are super wacky
with a ton of twists and turns.
But the most direct and the simplest route
will always be the best.
We are gonna show you how to build
a single or double valved manifold
onto your already existing return plumbing.
First off, this works best with hard plumbing.
So if you use flexible tubing for your return line,
now is a great time to convert it over to hard plumbing.
Just an FYI, schedule 80 is thicker than schedule 40
but you can absolutely put schedule 40 pipe
into schedule 80 fittings.
The only reason I use schedule 80 fittings
as much as humanly possible is it just looks a lot better.
But unfortunately they never sell them
at your local hardware store.
So you can either get them here at BRS
or if you have a local plumbing store in your area,
they often sell them as well.
We are going to install a Cepex 1/2 inch
double union schedule 80 ball valve.
That's actually kind of a mouthful.
This will work perfect for systems
that just need to use one single reactor.
But if you want a double manifold
and also have a one inch PVC return outlet,
then pick up this Adaptive Reef dual manifold.
It works really well.
We're gonna be showing you how to install
a 1/2 inch manifold today.
But if you need to install a 3/4 inch
or a one inch manifold, the process is basically the same.
Here is all the gear you're going to need.
Pipe cutters, fine sandpaper, tape measure, Sharpie,
1/2 inch Cepex double union ball valve,
one inch to 1/2 inch bushing,
one inch schedule 80 tee, schedule 40 pipe
one inch and 1/2 inch, clear PVC cement and primer,
cardboard and gloves, and finally a mask and goggles.
Step one, turn off the return pump
and drain water from the return line.
Step two, choose the location for your manifold
and mark it with a Sharpie.
Step three, cut the PVC using the pipe cutters.
Step four, measure, mark and cut an additional one inch
from each side of the new cut.
This will create a two inch gap.
Step number five, gently insert the schedule 80 tee
into place and adjust it
until it is facing the correct direction.
Step number six, use the Sharpie to draw a straight line
on and between the tee fitting
and the schedule 40 PVC pipe.
Do this on both sides.
This is gonna help you accurately cement the tee into place.
Step number seven, gently sand the edges
of the newly cut PVC with the sandpaper
and then wipe it clean with a cloth.
Step number eight, cement the schedule 80 tee
to the schedule 40 pipe.
Being sure to line up the Sharpie marks.
Ideally, you want to do this outside
as both the primer and the cement are quite toxic.
If you have no other option, have to do this inside,
use a large piece of cardboard to collect the drippings
and be sure to wear a mask in goggles.
Doing one side at a time,
apply the clear primer to the outside of the PVC pipe
and to the inside of the schedule 80 tee,
then quickly do the same with the cement.
Push the two pieces firmly together
while giving them a 1/4 twist
to evenly coat the cement.
Hold in place for 30 seconds.
and then repeat on the other side.
Step number nine, cement the one inch
to 1/2 inch bushing into the tee.
Again, follow the directions from step eight
and hold it in place for 30 seconds.
Step number 10, measure, cut and sand
a two inch piece of schedule 40 1/2 inch PVC.
Step number 11, cement the newly cut PVC
into the bushing and cement the other half
into the correct end of the Cepex valve.
Just in case you're wondering which end is the correct end,
the arrow points in the direction of the water flow.
Depending on the gear or reactor you're gonna use,
glue a barbed 1/2 inch fitting onto the other end
of the Cepex valve.
If you are using one of these deluxe BRS reactors,
then purchase a 12/ inch male threaded push lock adapter
and simply use the threaded output on the ball valve
instead of the slick.
Give your newly cemented manifold
one to two hours to harden up and then it's ready for use.
Click here for the entire my first task playlist
to learn all manner of things.
And as always everyone, thanks for watching.
Happy reefing be well.
We'll see you next time.