When dust from an exploding star
combines with an alien virus, all humans are turned into faceless automatons.
All hope is lost.
Or maybe not.
One man and his family
and some paint
and some paintbrushes
set off to save the world from something very bad.
Apocalypse Shmapocalypse
>Are you my mummy? >No kid my name is Chris and I like to make things.
Hey everyone. Today I'm gonna show you how to make a steampunk gas mask. You could also
make not a steampunk gas mask too from this pattern. In fact that's the
amazingly amazing thing about this pattern - it's really adaptable to all
different kinds of facial masks to wear. this is kind of like Ironman gas mask
almost. That looks like a fish face mask. And yes the pattern does include bonus
instructions on how to make the Doctor Who "empty child" gas mask as well. Oh I
just had an idea. Hold on, check this out I just thought of
this just now. How's that? And before we start, a little safety talk. One: These are
not real gas masks. Please do not wear them anywhere where you would need to be
wearing a real gas mask. Not only would they not work, people would also probably
look at you funny. Number two: We all need air to stay alive. That's why
there's holes in the bottom and a mesh covering the eyes so please don't skip
those out because not only are they good for breathing it also helps keep you
cool inside the mask. All right enough said. Let's make a costume gas mask!
Find a scenic spot to measure your face and print out the corresponding pattern size.
Measure the print guides to make sure it's been printed actual size and hasn't
been scaled down by whatever program you're using to print it. You'll likely
have to click the checkbox that says print actual size. Cut out your pattern
pieces and put them in a pile. A pattern piece pile.
Next comes tracing time. Don't forget to mark and label the alignment points,
extending the line into the pattern piece so it doesn't get cut off when you
cut out the pieces. Some of the pieces will need to be mirrored so flip over
your pattern and trace it again wrong side up. Just so I don't get mixed up later on I
like to mark the flipped over one with the letter A after its number. Make sure
to mark the center of all the dots on piece 9 and piece 2 and the center lines
on piece 2 and piece 8. Grab some five to six millimeter foam for the eye nuts and
some ten to twelve millimeter foam for the pig snout looking piece. Again it's
super important that you mark the center lines here and before you cut that hole
out you need to decide what kind of tubing you're gonna use - like a vacuum
cleaner hose or a dishwasher hose or a goose honking machine which comes in
super handy when you need to call some geese. Anyways make sure whatever hole
you cut fits the tubing you have. All right now you should be ready to start
cutting stuff out. As always cut directly on the line with a super sharp knife and
don't cut your fingers off. Save the center from piece number four because
we'll use it later and punch the eight millimeter holes in piece number 2,
saving them as well. Now you can glue the two piece 1s
together, lining up the alignment points G, H and I. I prefer to use hot glue for
my gluing because there are less fumes to worry about but you could also use
contact cement. When I use hot glue I glue a short section at a time, hold it
together until it cools and then move on to the next section. If you need more hot
gluing tips there'll be a link in the upper right-hand corner right about now.
Next glue the two darts together and then glue down piece 2 starting with
the center line on the center seam and working your way back. As you glue down
piece 2, allow it to follow the curve that's already been created when you
glued piece 1 together. This way it will help maintain that curve instead of
fighting against it like it would if you were flattening everything down against
the table while you were gluing it. Grab your 8 millimeter punch again and
re-punch all the holes that you already punched when you were punching the holes
in piece number 2. Now we'll glue our two piece 3s together, lining up points D, E
and F. And glue the seam at the eyehole, working
your way from the center out. Finish that piece off by gluing the two tiny darts.
Now you can line up points A, B and C on piece 1 and piece 3. This works best if
you glue a short section on both the outside and the inside edges and then
glue the rest in the middle a small section at a time. This just helps to
keep all the edges lined up nicely. Now glue the other side which is a little
trickier because you don't have a flat spot to press down on. Also you might
want to pay more attention than I did when you're marking the letters for the
alignment points I guess I must have been a bit distracted by something
amazing while I was tracing those pattern pieces. Even though it's a bit
tricky to get this seam nice and clean it's kind of ok because it's going to
get covered up anyways. Try your mask on to be sure that it fits your face. This
one's a bit big for me because it's a size large and I have a tiny head. If
you're happy with what you've got grab piece 4 and jam it in the nose,
making sure the center lines are lined up with the seams on your mask. Push it
out so it protrudes a few millimeters from the thin foam and glue it into
place from the inside of the mask. And that is the basic gas mask base. But
that's not good enough for us. We need to fancy it up a bit so let's add a nose
grill and a cheek support system. Not fancy enough? You definitely need a
forehead connection unit which is made by gluing piece 7 to piece 8 to piece 7 as shown
here. Once you've got it all together glue piece 7 beside piece 6, lining up the
edge with the edge of piece 3. Then do the exact same thing on the other side
with the other piece 7, piece 6 and piece 3. Glue down piece 8 and then finally the
in-between bits. Just don't glue the little flaps that go down towards the eye
we'll do that in a minute. First we need to get the eye nut in place.
Glue it down with one of the straight sides parallel to the center seam going
down the front of the mask. Once that side is glued you can then glue the
opposite side and then the rest of the eye nut.
Now you can glue the little flap down, trying to get it as close to the eye nut
as possible. If it doesn't quite make it you can always give it a little stretch.
Line up the bottom end of piece 9 with the cheek support and glue it into place.
Cover up the center seam with piece 11, trimming down the top edge if it's a
little bit long. Piece 12 goes on the side of the cheek support and piece 13 covers
the seam between 7 & 8. Hopefully you saved your 8 millimeter
disks from all your hole punching at the beginning because now it's time to not
waste them. Glue them down over the marks you made on piece 9, and two on piece 13.
Now grab your 6 millimeter punch and punch a bunch more dots. Glue those
around the eye nuts and along piece number 12. If you want you can make your
foam dots look like screw heads by making two vertical cuts with a very
sharp knife and then connecting the cut at the bottom. Cut a strip of foam. The
thickness will depend on what size pattern you're making so just check your
pattern for that measurement. Cut that strip into six 18 millimeter long pieces.
Glue the strips around the nose. One between piece 2 and piece 6, and two more
equally spaced between piece 6 and piece 7. Glue them down so they overhang the front
edge then you can trim them to the correct length with a very sharp knife.
Grab a matchstick and some two-part epoxy. Mix it up really, really well and
use the match head to drop dots of epoxy anywhere you want there to be little
rivets. Now it's time to make the filter canister. I've included two different
designs for the end of the canister for your making pleasure and you can also
choose to make your canisters short or tall. You also get to choose whether you
want it to be on a short tube that goes straight out or a longer hanging down
tube that hangs down. For this video I'm gonna make a short canister on a
sticky-outy short tube which is why I'm cutting piece 15 in half. Trace two piece
15s on some two millimeter foam and make marks on the edge where the dotted
lines would go. Using the width of piece 16 as a guide you can cut a long strip
of two millimeter foam. Glue your two piece 15s together end to end.
Cover the center seam with your strip of foam lining up the top edge and
leaving the bottom hanging over. You can then flip it over and trim off the extra.
Repeat this process, leaving a space between each strip until you've covered
the whole piece. Now you can glue the other ends together and cover it with
your last strip. Cut out a piece 14 from 10 millimeter foam and make sure your
tubing fits snugly. For the front design I'm using pattern piece 17A but if you
want to use 17B just check the instructions in the tutorial. Cut a 17A
from 10 millimeter foam and one from 2 millimeter foam. The thinner piece gets
glued behind the thicker one at a slight angle so it kind of looks like a vent
that can open and close. Piece 14 gets pushed into one end and gets glued from
the inside and piece 17 gets glued in the other side. This one we can't glue
from behind but if we can get our glue gun tip right in that little gap between
the edges we can go all the way around and make a nice seam. And piece 18
finishes it off. If you wanted a mask with a dangly tube all you need is an
elbow and a bit longer tube and you'd be good to go. However I'm going with a
short tube so I'm cutting a piece six centimetres long. Jam one end into the
hole in the canister and plug the other end because really who knows what's been
in that tube. I don't want to breathe that stuff. And we might as well finish off
our canister with some more epoxy rivets. Sand down some 3/8 inch vinyl tubing and
cut nine 15 millimeter long pieces. Glue them into the holes on the bottom of
piece 2. Punch three 12 millimeter disks and stick them on the mask. Punch some
holes with a pen or other sharp object and stick some wire in there. It's fine
if it goes all the way through and sticks out on the inside of the mask
because we'll trim that off later. Put some superglue on the wires from
both the inside and the outside and then trim off the ends of the wires from the
inside of the mask. And it should all look a little bit like this. Just don't
glue the cylinder in yet. It's a lot easier to paint with them separate. Now
you can give yourself a break and do something fun like raking the yard. Ok I
think that's as far as I'm gonna go. I'm getting a bit tired of editing and
you're probably getting a big tired of watching me. So stay tuned for next week where
I show you how I paint the gas mask, add the strap and the eye mesh. Maybe I'll
throw in some outtakes from this video as well just for some fun and as always
if you want to buy the pattern there should be a link popping up maybe here-ish.
If you don't want to buy the pattern it'd be super helpful if you clicked
that link there because that makes YouTube think that you really like my
videos and then they'll recommend it to other people and wouldn't that be fun.
Thanks for watching have a super amazing day. See ya.