Aloha! I am Sunday
You are now watching the second episode of Story of Taipei - Shilin’s Next Top Street
Speaking of Shilin, we must speak of our favorite household product-Vanseline
because Shilin and Vanseline have a lot... nothing to do with each other
(the last two syllables of Vanseline are pronounced the same as Shilin in Chinese)
(That’s enough) (the last two syllables of Vanseline are pronounced the same as Shilin in Chinese)
(That’s enough)
Shilin can be divided into two sections - the New Street and the Old Street (That’s enough)
Shilin can be divided into two sections - the New Street and the Old Street
The most famous Shilin Night Market, packed with tourists every day
is located on the New Street
The Old street, used to be called Zhilan Street, is actually near the famous Kuo Yuan-Ye
but because Zhilan Street lost its popularity over the years, it should undergo urban renewal
This urban renewal then BOOM! started
and lead to the Wenlin Yuan incident that shook up Taiwan
Though the incident looks like it’s coming to an end, the future of the Old street still worth our attention
Back to the topic.
How did the Old Street declined? How did the New Street rised?
We must refer to the Zhang-Quan Fight written in our history textbooks
About fight, we all know that it’s an activity that involves fists and wrestling (duh)
What about Zhang-Quan? Zhang-Quan is two neighboring districts in Fujian, China
Zhangzhou district and Quanzhou district
During the Qing Dynasty, many “made in Fujian” people came to Taiwan
Citizens of Zhang-Quan were eyesore to each other back in Fujian already
The moment they came to Taiwan, a precious island that have yet been developed , their fight began.
In the early period, Quanzhou people had population advantage over Zhangzhou people
so they chose to settle down at the most trendy area of the time - Banka
On the other hand, Zhangzhou people, fewer in numbers, could only set up their town center along Keelung riverside(Shilin)
Although people of Zhangzhou and Quanzhou each have their own territories, they still have disputes from time to time
Sometimes they’re small, involving only a few people, other times they shook the entire city
It was like Taipei became an arena, with people greeting each other by a smack on the head
“I still clench my fist whenever I think of the fierce Zhang-Quan Fight back in 1859”
It started out as a local dispute
but after Quanzhou and Zhangzhou people around Taiwan saw their hometown friends get beaten
they couldn’t take it anymore
So the dispute expanded to a fierce fight as families and friends took part
Like a snowball effect, the fight grew bigger and bigger
and they fought all the way to Shilin
“Chains were cut off” and “traps were burnt out” (famous sayings by a Taiwanese anti-gay pastor, Mei-jiang Kuo)
Zhangzhou people retreated all the way to their last line of defence - the “Zhishanyan Defence Tower”
A greater fight took place
Some slay with knife, some poke with chopsticks, some hit with hoe, some smack with hammer
All kinds of weapons and all kinds of tools
Purple bruises on the face and purple bruises on the feet
After the Fight, although both sides called a ceasefire
the prosperous Zhilan street was already torn apart and became wreckage
It was horrible
The defense gate and the public cemetery we see now in Zhishanyan
were traces left from the fierce Zhang-Quan Fight
After their downtown was attacked, they had no choice but to start over.
Where should they build a New city?
Some proposed that starting around Zhishanyan Defense Tower will secure their safety
If they really did, then today we might be strolling around Zhishan Night Market
Right when people agreed to build the New Street under Zhishanyan Defense Tower
An prestigious gentry of the time, Mr. Yongqing Pan yelled
"Stop right there! This place is deserted! We should start at a place where we’ll have a greater chance on boosting the economy.”
Under the call out of Mr. Pan, and the help of many wealthy families
They build the New city on the plain near Keelung River, which is where Shilin Night Market is currently located
This is the origin of the New Street
And the Zicheng Temple located in the middle of the night market
was originally the Zhilan Matsu Temple that was torn down in the Zhang-Quan Fight
It was “copy and paste” and now became the center of the New Street after unbar renewal
Take a look at the name of these roads, they are perfectly arranged in apple-pie order
Dadong Street, Danan Street, Daxi Street and Dabei Street
Xiaodong Street, Xiaonan Street, Xiaoxi Street,
Xiaosixi, Xiaosanyuan, Dasixi, Dasanyuan, Menqingzimo, Qingyise (Chinese Mahjong terminology)
Oops! Let me put my mahjong away...
Since then, New Street replaced the Old Street and become lively
Locals started doing business at the plaza in front of Zicheng Temple
Gradually, Shilin traditional market was formed
After many generations, Shilin traditional market developed into the world famous Shilin Night Market
With delicious fried chicken, takoyaki,Aiyu jelly lemonade
and long line waiting to buy Taiwanese sausage
public attention are drawn away from Zicheng Temple and Mr. Pan, few still care about these now
“Except for me!”
When we come to Shilin today
beside eating fried chicken and drinking aiyu jelly lemonade
we can also witness the influence of the fierce fights and passion in the early days
on Taipei’s development
Story of Taipei
ends here today with an aestheticization of violence styled comma
See you next time!
Hello! I’m Sunday!
After hearing the story - Shilin’s Next Top Street
how can we not introduce the
well known chain pastry business, raised from the Old Street Kuo Yuan Ye
The first thing that comes to mind when people mention Kuo Yuan Ye is probably their wedding pastry,
but they make more than just wedding pastry under their long history
Back in 1708, ancestors of the Kuo family left Zhangzhou, Fujian and came to Taipei and grew up on Zhilan Street
Unfortunately, because of the Zhang-Quan Fight in 1859, the Kuo’s home was burnt down
By the time Mr. Pan lead people to build the New Street,
Grandpa Kuo said, “We should be loyal to our hometown, for all its greatness given to us!”
Therefore the Kuos stayed on the Old Street and rebuilt their home
After generations came the founder of Kuo Yuan Ye, Mr. Kuo Yuan Ye
(Hey! “Yuan Ye” was in memory of their ancestral hall in Zhangzhou, not a person’s name!)
Oops, I mean Mr. Kuo Liang Chen
There were not many business options on the Old Street,
since Mr. Kuo’s hand-made pastry was quite popular in the family,
it will probably be a good idea selling them
So, Mr. Kuo Liang Chen peddled on the lively New Street
and after some hard work, he became the pastry big shot today
(Don’t you think you skip too many things...)
Alright! His had to give thanks to Shilin Paper Co. for his success
The company place a big order on mooncakes from Kuo Yuan Ye back in 1952
Kuo Yuan Ye seized the chance
and bring out 50 boxes of epoch-making Pea Filling Cakes
Their client was very satisfied
The Pea Filling Cake was so good that the news spread out fast
Lines started to form in front of Kuo Yuan Ye and made them famous all over Taiwan
Even those who live in the Shilin Official Residence were obsessed
So, from a small shop in Shilin, Kuo Yuan Ye has grown into a successful, famous, and popular pastry business in Taiwan
Over five generations of the Kuos, they continue to make those incredible pastry
Next time when you happen to swing around Zhilin
remember to stop by and grab some pastry and experience the incredibleness
Last but not least,
on November 7, HOK House of Kuo will be holding a Taipei Style Party
Now go to Exchange Taipei fan page to find out more information
Let's reveal more and more Stories of Taipei
Aloha, see you again in Story of Taipei