Hello, John Talley here with Partzilla.com. Today we're going to take
a little bit of time to look at different chain breakers and the
techniques that are required to actually make and break a chain. The one we're
going to be looking at today is actually one that came off of that 2009 Yamaha
YZF450R, and if you look at it, it is what they call an endless chain. It does
not have a master link, it does not have a press-on link, it does not have a staked
link. This one is actually one piece still because I went through the pain of
actually taking the swing arm off of the bike. That way I could get the chain out
and get the new one back in, which was also an endless chain. Well let's say you
don't want to go through that much pain and suffering - just to get a chain
replaced on your bike. Well you can go with a rivet type or you can go with one
that actually has a clip on it. Now of course, the rivet is going to be more
secure and lasts longer. Less chance of it actually kicking that clip out and
losing your chain. Now Motion Pro makes a couple of different chain makers and
breakers. They make a smaller one that can actually work with a bigger chain
like this as far as putting it together, but it is not stout enough to actually
push the pins through and that's why we're going to take a look at what they
call the Jumbo one from Motion Pro. It'll actually work on chains up to a 530.
The one we're gonna work on today is actually a five twenty, so it
shouldn't have a big problem with it. If you were going to use this unit, you
would need to grind down the head so it would have a chance of pushing that pin
through. The larger unit on the other hand, it can actually take the chain as
it is and push the pin through, effectively breaking the chain. So what
we are going to do today is actually use it to break this chain is if it were
still own the machine and then I'm going to show you how to actually put a new
chain together. And to break it apart, we're actually going to use the driver
pin, the guide, and the spring and then the actual body. So we're gonna put the
spring in here, I'm going to go ahead and put that into the body, then we're gonna
take the guide and just run it down flushed. Now this doesn't need to be
tight, because its job is just to guide that pin through the chain.
Now we've got it backed up just a little bit. We're gonna bring it up to where
it's just below the surface of the guide. We're gonna take our chain and pick a
pin that we want to push through. Now we want to bring that main bolt down to
where it encapsulates the pin we're about to push through. Doesn't have to be
tight, just snug it down where it's flush like that. And now we're going to use the
extractor pin to actually drive the pin through. There's going to be a lot of
resistance in the beginning, and then it should ease up once it breaks it loose.
There it goes, and this will actually push it all the way through. There she
goes. There it is. Pretty simple when you have a tool strong enough to actually do
the job. Like I said before, this one can do it, but you have to grind off that
face before it can even have a chance of actually putting that pin all the way
through. These chains already have grease on them so they're ready to go, actually.
So what I'm going to show you first is the clip type master link. It pretty much
goes together the same as a rivet type. We're actually going to press this on at
a certain width, and then to hold it in place we use one of these clips. So the
tool is going to help us do that, reason being is it takes a fair amount of
pressure to get the outer plate pushed onto the the master link itself. Plus
you're having to compress in those those o-rings. Now trying to do that with a
pair of vise grips? It can be done but it's not easy. But that's the whole
reason you buy a tool like this is to get it done quickly and accurately. And
now all we do is put the guide back in and once I get the chain in position
then we'll put this press plate on, attach to the chain, align it to where
the pins will come up through these holes, and actually push it into position.
When we do that I want to make a note of this chain width actually is. We're gonna
call it sixteen point seven millimeters. So when we're putting on our master link,
we want our plate distance to be sixteen point seven or as close as we can get to
it. So let me set up a few things and then
we'll see if we can get that outer plate pressed on. You'll see the method to my
madness here in a second. Now if you're doing this-- it's going to be on the machine
of course-- so pull it back to where it's actually on the sprocket and sprockets
actually holding the chain. Gives you a working area so to speak. I'm not putting
the the grease that comes along with the package, because I'm gonna be pulling it
back apart and it basically just make a mess. But if you were doing it on your
machine, go ahead and put grease around the o-rings as well as the pins on the
link. Then we have two more rings and then the outer plate. Now you'll notice
that it'd be really tough to try to get this to push down just with your fingers,
so we're gonna let the tool help us do this. And it's going to be a little
awkward for me. I'm gonna face it this direction to where you can see what I'm
doing. You're gonna take the press plate, get it in position, and we want to make
sure that it is lined up with each of the pins. We're gonna bring the guide
down on top of it and get it to push the plate down. Now you don't want to go too
far, so we're gonna do this slowly and then check it every so often to see if
we're making progress. Alright it's close.
Just a tick more and then we're gonna use our caliper and see where we are.
Now granted, we don't have to be super precise with this outer plate because
it's gonna force its way out against this this clip anyway, but let's see
where we ended up. 16.7, so nailed it. Now here's the other important thing: if the
front of the machine was pointing this direction, we want this edge of the clip
to be going in that direction, Because the chain is going to be going in that
direction. Now this was on a motorcycle or an ATV, it'd be pretty easy for you.
All you'll have to do just take a screwdriver or a blunt nosed chisel, just
tap it with a hammer, and it's gonna go across. For me it's getting a little bit
different because I'm working on a table and there's nothing holding it. So, I'll
try to replicate this as if it was on the machine, but you get the idea. Like I
said, it's gonna be a whole lot easier for you to do that on the machine versus
on a table. Let's take our chain back apart. Tell you what, I'm gonna cheat here
for a second, run over to my vise, get this pulled apart. A whole lot easier
like that. And then we're gonna put it back together using a rivet type master
link. So this procedure is very similar to what we just did with the clip type
except for the fact we're not going to put on a clip once we press down the
outer plate. We're actually going to change the configuration of our tool and
then bring down on each one of these pins to mushroom it out and that's
what's gonna hold it in place. So let's get our rings back on and remember you
would be putting grease on these as you're putting it together. Once again
I'll be taking this apart when we're done here.
And our top set of rings. Now we put on the plate.
Our tool is still setup the same way it was. Get our press plate lined up on the
link itself. Bring it down and make sure it goes into that guide. This one is
usually pretty tricky, because you're having to do it by sight. Typically what
happens, it'll come down and then actually the the press plate will hit
one of the pins. At that point you'll need to back off, realign it, and then
keep going. I think it's starting this way on there. Let's take a look real
quick. Alright, it's just above the edge of the plate. Now so we're making good
progress.
We're actually lined up pretty well, but it never hurts to check. There it goes.
Let's stop there, check with our caliper, see if we're at the right width for the
plates. So I actually pushed it in a little too far and I did that on purpose
because I'm going to show you how to back it back up and then we'll get it
set correctly. See all these other links move freely? Now let's get to that one.
Well, has a lot of stiction to it. I guarantee you it's gonna wear out those
o-rings way too quick, and we don't want that either. So what we need to do is
back that plate off. What we're going to do is use the screwdriver and a
hammer like we removed the other one, and just bring it back out. Let's stop there.
Check with our caliper and see where we are. 16.69. I'm gonna
call that close enough. Now what we're going to do is set up our tool to do the
actual rivet process. So this piece, which is actually called the rivet anvil, goes
on the backside of the chain. And this one is actually the what they call the
set, so we're gonna bring this out, take out our guide, and then install the
set. We have our tool ready to go, but before we start we need to take another
measurement with our caliper. Because what we need to determine is the width
that we're gonna flare this, or rivet it. So we're gonna be starting with five
point two millimeters, and we're gonna flare it an additional twenty to thirty
thousand. So twenty-five thousandths is 0.635 millimeters, so that's what
we're going to add to that. So we got 5.2, so it's going to be right
at 5.835 millimeters. Everybody follow that? So now
our tool's setup, let's go ahead and get the chain in, get the back of the chain into
that anvil area. We're gonna bring down the set and
slowly start making the rivet. Now here's the real trick here guys: be patient here
because there is no reversing this. If you make a mistake here, then you need to
press out the link and start over, and I'd rather not do that. It's starting to
flare it a little bit. Let's give it one more nudge and see where we are.
I stopped at the right point. 5.84. Why? Because I've done it a few times. The
only thing I would have to do next is just do the same procedure on the other
side and this one would be finished. Listen if you need this tool or any
other tool, along with parts for your machine, why don't you come see us at
partzilla.com and we can get you taken care of. If you like what you see, why
don't you go ahead and hit that subscribe button. That way you can keep
up with whatever I'm working on next. Listen we just want to say thank you for
shopping here with us at Partzilla, and we will see you in the next video. Have a great day.