Hi I’m Kirsty Meakin from Naio nails, in this video I am going
to show you how to sculpt nails on short, bitten, nasty nails.
Kirsty: Do you have short, bitten nails? Do you want to know how to sculpt nails on
short, bitten, horrible nails? Well, this video is for you!
What I am going to show you today is -- how to do this.
Because you see this nail? It is so short, so bitten, look at that! Horrible, short bitten
nails if i do say so, I am sure, my model today would agree. She has short, bitten horrible
nails.
Female speaker: Indeed.
Kirsty: Yes, but we are going to make them beautiful. We are going to make her feel like
she can talk with her hands, and she can pay at the till be like, oh yes, thank you very
much. She will hold a glass of wine like this -- she won’t be afraid to have those hands
out on show. We are going to start by pushing the cuticle
back. I am pushing the cuticle back to relieve that cuticle from the nail plate and also
reveal a little bit more nail. So we are going to push it all the way back to her elbow.
No we're not. Nice and gently, just nice and gently.
Then I am going to take a sanding block, and I am going to whip over to remove the surface
shine from that nail. Then I am going to take a file, and just come down the sides.
Just so I know that is all abrazed. Dust that over. Dusty, dusty, dusty.
And then -- we are going to wipe over with a bit of acetone. You don’t have to use
acetone, you can use. I will tell you three different products. You can use, if you are
feel like you are dehydrating the hell out of that nail all the time. You can use acetone,
which will dehydrate it quite a bit. But that’s what I want to be. You can use the non-acetone
nail varnish removed. Or is it called nail polish remover? -- Nail polish remover. Or
-- you can use the gel residue wipe off solution. That is gel residue wipe off solution. Not
soak off solution like I say sometimes. I just -- the brain and the mouth don't work
sometimes together. So that’s all nice and clean.
Now we are going to dehydrate this nail with nail prep dehydrator. And you are going to
let that evaporate. Then i am going to apply a non-acetone primer.
That's one coat then we are going to do a second coat. We are doing two coats of primer
because -- Charlotte, who is our lovely model today and my lovely cousin. She suffers with
a little bit of lifting because of the nail being short and she likes having long nails.
So there is a bit more -- sort of -- leverage going on there. So if she gets a little bit
of lifting -- she will sit there and peck that till she goes, oh it's gone. It popped
off, it just popped off that. She will be like that. Won’t ya?
Female speaker: Yeah.
Kirsty: She’s not that bad anymore because I have told her off too many times for doing
it. So now we are going to put a sculpting form
on. Right up to that contact area here going to get it between my thumbs -- and I am going
to check how this fits. Hang on. That fits nice because -- see this bit here? This fleshy
bit. That is the hypenicium we want the product to just fall off the nail,
just like a natural nail would do. A natural nail would sit on top of the hypenicium
. You are not going to put this here. Do you see how that’s right next to
the nail. You are going to leave the room for that hypenicium there.
Then, we are going to close the form]. So you know it's nice and straight,
you could start to close the tabs on your form to secure it. Right
underneath here. I am going to close this down to about -- a 2 and a half. Because we
are going to do the length to a number 2. And then, this is what you get with nail biters.
Because the nail is further down the nail bed, they end up getting this bit of chunk
here. Is all -- its just skin -- it’s just the finger. So the finger here interferes
with the form a little bit. So what I am going to do, I am going to use a tiny pair of scissors
and going to come in at the side here. Got to be careful, we don’t want to be chopping
fingers off. And i am relieving that pressure. So this
can sit nice and close to the nail. This part of the form here, will sit nice. Same on this
side. You can see that the form still fits from
corner to corner -- so we can do the application. I think I need to put my hair up because Adam
will start shouting at me.
Adam: I was going to yeah, because it just --- once yeah.
Kirsty: I like that, into the camera. So what I’m going to do is, I am going to
show you how to put your hair up with a nail art brush. Are you ready? I got it -- hold
on, let’s try it this way -- so twist the hair like that -- oh. Here is another one
weee! -- You are going to go in, then pull it round and push it through. Look at that.
You like it don’t you?
Adam: I like it because it stays out my way now.
Kirsty: So we got that now, I will keep my hair out of the way of the camera.
Ok so now we are going to apply the acrylic. I am using soft beige. I am going to use max
adhesion because I want it really to adhere to this nail. Because it is so tiny, we need
good adhesion. I am going to start here. At the bead, medium
size bead. Even it out, onto the nail, side to side. So it is making contact with the
nail -- the natural nail that is. And then we are going to stretch by patting and pressing
down to number 2 on the sculpting form. Into a nice soft stiletto shape.
The next bead, don’t need to bleed this out. I am going to tape
it at the cuticle, make it nice and -- flush. We don’t want a rip. We don’t want a thick
edge at that cuticle; we want it nice and flush.
Then you are going to bring the rest of the product over the top of the structure you
have already created. And this is going to give you your apex as well. Then you are going
to thin it out towards the tip. Just check these corners, they are vital these
corners, they need to have enough product on.
Because this is where the nail finishes. The natural nail that is, not the fake one.
Check all the views, so you know your structure is there, you got your apex laid in.
Popping the pinching tool on. Right at this widest point here. Just to give it a little
bit more of a 'C' curve underneath. Going to give it strength. Going to make it look
more slim. If you were doing the full set, you would
go along obviously, that pinch you would work on this one, then you would take it off and
put it on the next. That is nearly done, and then we will file
it. I am going to take the form off now. Open the back, peal that off there, then we are
going to pull it from this point down. We are going to use the 'E' file -- with my
favourite bit -- description bit below if you want to find out what bit it is.
I am just perfecting the cuticle area -- taking off any bulk
I am just buffing over now to smooth that out. You see I am supporting this nail with
my thumb so the pressure doesn’t hurt. Dust that off. And then I am going to wipe
over with pure acetone. Because it will refine that surface even more. It will smooth it
out and get rid of any unwanted debris, like dust and stuff.
There you are. That nail is now ready for nail art or gel polish, anything like that
you would want to put on. So let’s look at the difference between,
this is your bitten nail, and the beautiful soft stiletto nail. So you too can do this.
Don’t be scared of that client that comes in that has got short nails. Don’t be like,
oh we can’t do it. I have had people come to me that have come to me and said, oh I
have been to salon and they said they can’t do anything with them because they are too
short. You can, look at that. Beautiful. Have a go
yourself; I hope you enjoyed this video. Don’t forget everything we used today is
in the description box below, also subscribe to this channel because you would be silly
not to. Because you need my knowledge and power don’t you? And I am willing to give
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and Facebook. And I will see you all next time. Bye!