Hello, John Talley here with Partzilla.com.
Today I'm going to show you how to do a simple oil change on our 20017 Honda Goldwing GL1800A.
Pretty simple to do, just have to remove a couple of panels, but the most important thing
is I need to go ahead and start it up and let it warm up for a few minutes before we
start draining that oil.
So, let me get that done and we'll dive into it.
Alright guys, this is going to be a skill level one.
I just want to caution you to be very careful when you're removing the front section not
to scratch your fender.
Alright, as far as the tools you're going to need, it's a fairly short list.
Just a pair of needlenose pliers, 3/8ths ratchet, 5mm Allen, 17mm socket, a couple of different
extensions, this special 65mm oil filter wrench, and as always, a good torque wrench.
Now, as far as the parts go, if you would, reference our parts diagrams.
they will show you exactly where that oil filter is down low on the front of the motor.
Now if your machine has got a few years on, missing a nut or bolt or two, that'll also
show you where they're supposed to go when you go to put it back together just in case
somebody made a mistake when they reassembled it in its previous owner's life.
So, once you have your parts and your tools together, we can go over there and I'll show
you how to do it.
So let's go.
alright, there's two covers we have to be concerned with.
First one is on this side, and this is where your dipstick slash fill tube is.
Right here.
So, we'll go ahead and remove it.
And then we're going to pull this front panel, which is actually the entire section for what
they call the lower faring.
It's actually held in by six different Allen heads, but keep in mind when you're pulling
these off they're different types.
Some of them have a little higher collar than others.
Alright, that's our first four.
Then you've got two more up high, so lay them out in order from low to high.
And there's a couple of plastic rivets that actually pull out on the top, and then they'll
just pull straight out.
You've got two more of the standard plastic rivets all the way up at the top.
A little bit tricky to get to.
You can pull out this upper faring center section.
You can push it out far enough to get this lower section out but you run the risk of
scratching your fender and that's what we don't want to do.
So, just follow the center section all the way up toward the back and you're going to
see two more of these plastic rivets.
Now, we can lift out this upper center section.
And here's the real trick: I've got my unit sitting on a stand with the front tire straight.
to actually remove this, I need to back it up a little bit, put it on the side stand
where I can turn the wheel.
Otherwise that panel will not come out.
Not without damaging the bike anyway.
Now we can actually see our oil filter, but we need to move one more panel out of the
way so we can get to the drain bolt.
I'm pretty sure this is going to be an aftermarket panel, so you probably will not have to deal
with this on your particular machine.
Alright, now we can get to our drain plug and actually we want to leave the unit sitting
on its side stand because they actually position the drain plug toward the left side of the
machine.
that way, most all of the oil should come out versus it sitting straight up.
So we're expecting right at four quarts to come out, or three and a half, so be prepared
for that much volume with your container.
When you pull your drain plug, you want to look at the end of it because it actually
has a magnet on the end that's going to catch any debris that's kinda being circulated in
the engine.
This one looks really good.
Very little of what I call magnetic or metal fuzz on the end of it.
But you do want to make sure you at least wipe it clean before we put it back in there
once its done draining.
It's almost finished draining.
We'll be patient and wait on it.
While it's draining, why don't we go ahead and break the oil filter loose, because there's
going to be some oil that comes out with it as well.
There she is.
Get our new one.
A little dab of oil, put it around that O-ring, we'll go ahead an pop it back on there.
They don't give you a lot of room under here.
Alright, it's snugged down, and you don't see this very often but there is actually
a torque value for this particular oil filter, and it's 19 foot-pounds.
Looks like it's pretty much finished draining.
Slide that out of the way, and get our drain plug back in.
The torque value on our drain plug is 25 foot pounds.
Alright, now we just need to refill it guys, but before that it actually needs to be sitting
straight up either with this clamp or on its center stand, so let me bring it forward a
little bit and then we'll get it refilled.
With an oil filter change, it should hold right at fours quarts, so maybe 3.8 or 3.9.
I've chosen to go with a 10-W40, you want to make sure you use the synthetic without
moly in it.
That's very important.
I went with a 40 because we're in a warmer environment than most places.
Now if you're riding during the winter, or you're in a cooler environment, sub-100 degrees,
sub-80 degrees, may want to go with a 30 instead.
But I decided to go with a 40.
What we'll do is go ahead and put in right at three and a half quarts, we'll start it
up, let it idle for a couple of minutes, then let is sit for two to three minutes, and then
we'll actually check it.
Alright, here's number four, like I said, we're only going to put in about half of it.
So let's get our dipstick back in, and we're going to crank it up and we can check the
level and see where we are.
Okay, so she's sat for a couple of minutes, let's see where we ended up.
Wipe it clean when you're checking it, insert it without screwing it in.
Alright, we're not even touching the line yet, so let's add a little bit more, let it
settle, and then we'll check it again.
Alright, it's toward the bottom.
So, as Honda predicted, I think it's going to take 3.9 or pretty close to it.
There it is.
We're pretty much right in the middle of the range, so that's what I wanted.
All we need to do now is just replace that lower bracket which you're probably not going
to have on your machine and put together the front center and lower farings.
And this is a little bit tricky here because we actually have to get this section behind
the middle and also behind each side of the side farings.
Alright guys, we've got the center upper and lower farings ready to bolt back in.
I did notice some inconsistencies from one side to the other as far as the way the bolts
looked and their length and the diameter and whatnot, so I had to do a little investigating.
I went back to the original exploded diagrams and found out that that top rivet was actually
incorrect.
It should have been another one of this type where you can actually grab it with your fingers
and pop it out.
The other bolt that was incorrect, there's four at the bottom of the lower faring that
should have all been the same size.
There's this one oddball, not sure where it came, but I can tell you this much: it's not
going back on there.
So, I've got the correct bolts, so let's start with the lower faring.
Now typically I just put them down hand tight, back off maybe about a quarter turn, that
way you can still move it around just a little bit to get the other ones to line up correctly.
Head back over to this side and go for the same one.
Now, let's take our new correct bolt and get it back over here.
And hit the same one on the other side.
Next, let's grab this one with the really long shoulder for that upper section that
actually goes through the upper part and the lower faring.
Hence why it's so much longer than the other ones.
Alright, we're about to go dead center here and here with the plastic rivets and then
the other set of rivets go all the way up.
so you have to get it inserted all the way, then lock it.
Now we just need to do the other side.
And now it's locked.
Alright, make sure your dipstick tube is tightened down and now there's only one more panel to
put back on.
Now you'll notice, of course this little section right here needs to line up with that.
So what you need to do is go in a little bit of an angle, get it to push on there.
Guide it down and now push it in.
And that's it.
Well alright guys, that pretty much wraps this one up.
Well listen, if you need any parts for your machine, why don't you come see us at Partzilla.com
and we can get you taken care of.
Have any questions or comments?
Leave them in the section below and I'll do my best to answer them.
Til next time we just want to say thank you for shopping at Partzilla, and we will see
you in the next video.