Hello welcome to Enots engineering I'm Alan
In todays video we finished off making the probe for the electronic edge finder
By soldering the ball onto the top and we also assemble the probe body
and the electrics inside and test it.
So let's go into the workshop and see how we do
First of all put some flux on, this is electrical flux.
I've put some solder on the hole and tin the hole
You can see if you look in the hole now it's a dull color
I'll put some flux on the ball drop the ball in the hole
heat it up and then feed some solder around the rim
and as I heat it up the ball
should bubble underneath and you will see the ball lift up
you can see the air coming out
soldier in there
stop a applying the hates and as it cools down it should suck that ball into the hole
Let that cool down
the probe finished
These are the finished parts and I'm going to assemble them I've made a few modifications
so on the plastic part one of modified is I've added a 5mm wide by 40mm diameter
to give me more plastic around the thread to stabilise the probe a bit better
on the other end I've added 10mm and bored that out to 8mm for 10mm deep
so the batteries will now fit in the end here which insulates them from the outside
because if the first battery touched the outside
it would only give you half the voltage and that means that on the body you just
have to take the 10mm bore 10mm deeper to accommodate the extra length
so now we come to the assembly part the LED I'm using is a 1.5 volt LED
The batteries are button cell batteries and the number on
the battery is 392A and each one is one is 1.5 Volts
so you might say well that's 3 volt your putting through a 1.5 volt LED
it doesn't seem to give it any problems in fact you probably lose some of the voltage as it goes through the machine
with one battery the LED is not bright enough two batteries it's okay
With the LED is you're never going to get these wires because they're quite stiff wires
to bend into the body to leave the LED sticking out like that
so what I'm going to do is cut these two wires off
and solder some way wire that's a bit more flexible than this
here's one that I did earlier I've got the two wires off on the led
so that would give me a bit more flexibility and what I want to do first is solder the
two brass parts that we made onto the wire
a small one and a longer one the longer one goes on to the battery holder end
and the short one goes into the back of the 6mm thread we've put in there
so i'll solder these on first take the wire
heat it run some solder along push you through the hole in the brass
solder the end
same on the second one some solder on
let them cool down just check by pulling the wire but it's a good joint
and if you've have any solder left on the end just take a small file to flatten the face
what I've done is cut the wires removed the plastic cover so there's enough
wire to go from the end to the center hole on both parts we can thread the
wire through so it comes out the side hole just push the brass part home
and the same on the other end
screw the probe in and that will push the brass home
when you screw the ball probe in it should come just up to the
face you may need to take some off the end of the thread so that this will
screw in and tighten up on the face not the electrical contacts
the next part is to to take the LED and solder it to the wires
Im just using this little clamp to hold the LED
solder the wires to the LED but before you press it in into the body
fit the batteries into the holder with the positive end facing the probe
then connect two wire temporary to the back of the battery to the probe and
the LED should light up if it doesn't light up swap the two wires around
connecting the LED
it's working okay
you can see there the LED it's just lined up with the hole and the small
hole on the back is to be able to poke a stick through there or a cocktail stick to push the LED forward
now if all goes well you should have the LED in line with the hole
in the probe what I've done is when I centre drilled it
I've got room there for a very small spring so when you screw the probe into
the body it should tighten up on the face if you've got a gap and it's
tightened up you need to take some of the length of the probe if it's
tightened up but there's no electrical contact you can put a small spring
inside to make up the gap the easiest way I found of putting the batteries in
is put the batteries on top of your breasts end and then just put the probe
over the top push the end cap in and then screw on the cap
and you'll see here it won't go on any further than that
so let's test the battery all you need to do
is get a piece of wire from the probe to the probe body and the LED should light
so that's not working okay the next thing I need to do is just take
about 4mm off the end to let the cap tighten up onto the battery
I've taken 4mm off here it's the same diameter and taken 4mm off the end
so that when that goes in the brass part is level with the end I
then found a spring that will just fit over that brass part it's level
so the brass part will go into the hole
and as you screw this in that should
give you a good contact
to test it all you need to do is put the wire between the two
the light works that's the finished part
if you get any problems with the electric contacts not working properly
you can put a stronger spring in so it pushes on the brass parts inside
that's it so let's go and put it on the milling machine
what I've done is I've put the dial indicator in the milling machine
as soon as the dial indicator touches the light should come on
it's running out about 0.0035"
I couldn't understand why the probe was running out 0.004"
so I just put a dowel in the chuck turn the spindle you can see the
Chuck is running out 0.0035" so that means my probe is only
running out about Thats nearly 0.004' there
So it looks what probe is running true and it's a chuck that's running out
so what I'll need to do is get some collet that will hold 14mm body of the probe
I know that it's running true to the spindle
and of course if you've got digital readouts on your machine
it makes it a lot easier to work at the centre
because you can feed the offset in of the ball diameter
Wind it across
as soon as it touches the LED should light up
so I know that's the edge of our material the ball is 0.375" which is
9.525mm in metric so half of the ball is 4.762mm
If I lift this up move the table over 4.762mm
there now that ball I should be the edge of that materials in the middle which means that
the spindle edge is in the middle
I know it's running out 0.003"
what you can do is mark the high or the lowest spot and just rotate the
spindle to get the the middle of it
so it takes the run-out out I think what I
need to do is just face the plastic off now I've pressed it in to make sure it's
square to the outside
wind it back until it touches
Zero and wind it across to the other side
that works out to about 20mm that bore
well that's it for today hope that was useful I hope to see you next time
On Enots engineering