Welcome back to the Gentleman's Gazette.
In today's video, we're going to look at Gurkha
trousers and decide if they're timeless or merely a trend.
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Now, if you're anything like me, you've noticed various trends throughout menswear in recent
years, so whether it's wearing smart watches with classic outfits or different ways to
wear a necktie, there's always trends going on.
There is one particular clothing item that
seems to be rapidly gaining in popularity and, as you might have guessed based off the
title of this video, it's the Gurkha trouser.
They quickly become a favorite at events like
Pitti Uomo, and they're often seen on various menswear
influencers.
While this trouser might have
a particularly strong interest in European countries, its reach is now worldwide.
These
pants are not just a recent trend where someone just changed up an old design, these actually
have a lot of history.
And besides the unique history, there are a few style details that
you really need to look for when identifying a pair of Gurkha trousers.
Let's dive in and
see if these pants have timeless appeal or if they're going to be more of a trend like
pants worn by MC Hammer.
♪ "U Can't Touch This" by MC Hammer ♪
There are several distinct features of Gurkha trousers.
First off, they're typically pleated.
We've talked about pleated trousers before on the channel.
You can have them on suit pants,
on chinos, even on jeans, but Gurkha trousers are really defined by having pleats.
Typically
speaking, you'll see Gurkha trousers with a strong
double pleat.
Whether that's inward or outward
facing, it doesn't really matter but, sometimes, you'll find ones with a single pleat.
You can
also find them in a less common appearance -
also known as the "kissing pleat."
Regardless
of pleat style, you'll usually see something pretty dramatic as, after all, flat fronts
wouldn't
qualify as Gurkha trousers.
Just above the pleats, you will see a single or a double
extended
waistband, which can be used to tighten or loosen the trouser.
This is typically done
with a buckle, but you can also find them in
button varieties as well or they might even
use side adjusters.
This extended waistband will start all the way over at the left hip
and extend all the way over to the right.
You'll also typically notice that the waistband is
much wider than a typical pair of dress pants that you'll find at a department store.
All
this detailing makes it look like you actually have a built-in cummerbund onto your trouser
waistband.
Just make sure that the pleats of the cummerbund are up.
[scene from "The Blacklist"] Red: "Good god!
Crumbs up!"
Red: "Your cummerbund pleats, up!
You look like Bob Yashimura in 8th grade swing choir!
It's upside down!"
These design features allow the trouser to be worn a little bit more casually,
even though they typically have a much higher rise.
Overall, the details work quite well in
order to give the visual appearance of a very high and tight waist.
Also, because the rise
is a lot higher, it also makes the legs look longer, it makes the gentleman look taller.
This usually tapers down to a nice, narrow opening at the hem and can feature plain bottoms
or cuffs.
When it comes to Gurkha trousers, you could easily make the reference to a traditional
Black or even White Tie silhouette as it's a similar level of elegance that's achieved,
but this time, for day wear.
Like many other types of trousers, you can find these in a
much shorter length, and they're called Gurkha shorts.
Points for creativity.
But, hey, I guess
it'll make it easier to shop for them.
And as you can imagine, Gurkha shorts are about
the same as Gurkha trousers.
The only difference is they're shorts and not pants.
The only difference
between the shorts and the trousers are that the shorts typically have a much wider opening
compared to the trousers, which is a little bit more tapered.
Gurkha shorts are certainly
a very bold style choice, but you can certainly see in this image here how it resembles a
lot of the shorts of classic menswear.
Okay, so with all the definitions squared away,
let's
dive into the history of Gurkha trousers.
Like many things in menswear, Gurkha trousers have
a military origin.
These treasures were based off of the trousers that were part of the
military uniform in the Nepalese military, found in the Kingdom of Gurkha, in the early
1800s.
The British military, during the East India Trading Company conflict of 1814, battled
with the kingdom; and despite Nepalese soldiers being outnumbered six to one, their knowledge
of the terrain made them a formidable force against the British military.
Their resilience
and bravery in the battlefield won the respect of the British and, eventually, a peace treaty
was signed.
What made this treaty unique is that it allowed the British military to add
Gurkha soldiers into their ranks.
And this is still the case today, as Gurkha soldiers are
known as having one of the most elite training programs in the entire world.
Strangely, the
Gurkha trouser is actually the perfect blend of this as it was a trouser that was designed
for the British military, but it features many
elements of the Nepalese people.
The cut of
the trouser was made to be a little bit fuller and pleats were added for better ease of movement.
Another element of cultural fusion can be seen in the waistband.
As we previously mentioned,
the high and wide waistband is very reminiscent of a cummerbund, and this makes perfect sense.
As British forces were in the East Indies at the time, they adopted the local customs
of tying a sash around their waist.
At this time, it was considered to be good manners
to keep your waistband covered, so sashes were
refined into waistcoats and, eventually, cummerbunds.
During the 1800s, the British adopted the cummerbund
as a way to stay cool in the warm climate.
Turns out British people don't like the heat, who knew?
[clip from CBS News] Reporter: "All soldiers are prone to fainting."
Then, this elegant silhouette was combined into a trouser and cummerbund waistband concoction.
What about the belt buckles on the sides, you
might ask?
Well, this was typical military innovation.
By having the Gurkha-style waistband, it allowed soldiers to keep their trousers up without
needing a pair of suspenders or a belt.
This is something that soldiers found to be particularly
useful as they got a lot of control over the fit in the very hot and humid climate.
Since
these were special to hot climates, believe it or not, Gurkha shorts were actually invented
first, with trousers coming later.
Considering the hot climates where they were to be worn,
plus the military application, you can imagine the early colors for different shades of khaki
and olive drab.
Throughout the years, not much has changed when it comes to Gurkha trouser
DNA, but they have become more sartorially inclined, as we are going to find out.
One of
the biggest questions regarding Gurkha trousers is: Where do they fit on the formality scale?
As always being the helpful guy he is, Raphael is right here to teach you more about formality
scale.
When it comes to looking at Gurkha trousers, the answer is it depends, but they can be
made
more formal depending on the fabric that they're made from.
For example, Gurkha is made of silk,
linen, cotton; really bring out a more casual summertime feel.
If you choose a pair of Gurkhas
in a very thick and heavy flannel, it might really dress it up, and also, the fabric properties
and the weight of the fabric can really lend itself to a sharp crease, which could also
lean more formal.
But, keep in mind that the context around fabric and color are going
to be some things that we're going to look at when choosing a pair going forward.
Because
of the unique details of a pair of Gurkha trousers,
it's not ideal to make them for a suit.
Because
the waistband detail has so much going on, they don't really look good underneath a suit
jacket, and they're really sort of a statement piece where you want to pay attention to those
unique details, so they look best by themselves.
This makes them a great candidate for odd
jacket and trouser combinations, and they work
particularly well in warm weather.
After all,
that's where they come from.
These trousers are also a great option if you want to get
rid of the belt and suspenders from your outfit.
The fastening mechanism is already built into
the trouser, giving you a more streamlined look.
Pairing them with a shorter jacket can
also look really nice, as it balances out the
nature of the higher-waisted trouser, so think
of things like a Schott leather jacket or a
Harrington jacket.
These choices are great
for the transitional seasons as having a roomier cut will still allow you to have airflow,
but
it still might be cool enough for a jacket.
Underneath, we would recommend a turtleneck
or a long sleeve polo shirt.
When it comes to warmer climates, the Gurkha trouser can
be
paired with a whole bunch of different classic menswear pieces.
Light and breezy Cuban color
shirts are a great pairing partner, lending a bit to a vintage aesthetic.
Short sleeve
polo shirts are also a welcome addition, and we've even seen them look good with T-shirts.
And if you need a little bit more versatility, why not add an overshirt in cotton or linen.
Another point when it comes to hot weather is to look for a pair of Gurkha trousers with
a looser fit.
This will promote airflow, keeping you feeling cool.
This also might be something
to keep in mind if you have larger thighs like someone like me.
And when it comes to
footwear, Gurkha trousers really give you a
large range of options as well.
You can keep
things on the more dressy end of the spectrum, like a pair of derbies or wing tips, or you
can pick something rugged and utilitarian, like a pair of boots.
Since Gurkha trousers
have a rich military history, a pair of boots look just right.
For a more relaxed look, you
could go with a pair of leather sneakers.
Hey, if you had a pair of Gurkhas in linen, you
could even go with something like a canvas sneaker.
And if you have any questions or want
guidance when it comes to dress sneakers, check
out this video here.
Essentially, dress sneakers
are not gym shoes.
Unsurprisingly, Gurkha shorts are to be worn in warmer climates.
Not only
do they look out of place with winter fabrics, but also, if it's cold, it's just not practical.
Even if there's one guy in town who wears shorts while he's plowing the snow.
[clip] Look it was above negative four.
I'm wearing shorts.
You think this is bad?
You should have seen
the snow back when I was in Minnesota.
We had avalanches in my neighborhood every day.
And since Gurkha shorts are a little bit more laid
back than the trousers, it's great to embrace
the more casual side of your wardrobe.
We'll reiterate bringing in your summer prints,
your
florals, camp collar shirts, polo shirts, and
T-shirts.
As far as footwear is concerned, go
with loafers or canvas sneakers, espadrilles or boat shoes.
However, we are going to recommend
you don't wear your dress socks with Gurkha shorts, it's just not a good look.
And one more
thing, leave the flip-flops at home.
But, we've said that a few times already.
At this point,
things are looking pretty positive when it comes to Gurkha trousers, but there are a
few
things you want to keep in mind before you add a pair to your wardrobe.
Given the pleats
and the busy waistband, it's probably best to pick a plain material.
Avoid oversized window
panes or bold check patterns.
After all, you don't want to end up looking like John Daly.
Instead, stick with a very simple, solid color and leave the exploring to picking a unique
fabric.
Pick a pair of Gurkhas in linen, cotton, a linen-cotton blend, flannel, or tweed.
These
all lend themselves to being perfect for Gurkha trousers, and it'll add just a little bit
more
visual interest by picking a unique cloth.
Another thing to consider is how a pair of
Gurkha trousers will fit you.
Believe it or not, Gurkha trousers can be quite tricky to
get right and, you know, here at GG, we're all
about a good fit.
If they're too baggy, you
can look like you're wearing a pair of paper bags and, on the other end, well, no one wants
to look like a sausage.
[clip of a sausage factory line]
Keep in mind that you might want to get a pair with the waistband a little bit bigger
than normal because you have the ability to ratchet it down.
But, be careful that you don't
get something four sizes too big.
Otherwise you'll have bunching around the waistband,
and that doesn't look good.
With plated pants, you typically want to add a cuff to the bottom
as it will add visual weight.
This will also help the pants to drape nicely, and it helps
it with holding a crease.
As we circle back to the very first question that we asked here
in this video, I think that you'll find that we will call a pair of Gurkha trousers a timeless
piece.
Yes, it's true.
They are a recent favorite of the Pitti peacocks, but they have a rich
history
that goes back, and the design is still the same today.
Even if it seems like they're trending
right now, the reality is it's just a resurgence in popularity.
It's not a new thing.
If we've
inspired you to look into Gurkha trousers further,
here are some brands that we can recommend.
On the more affordable end, brands like J. Peterman, Studio suits, Grand Le Mar, and
Craftsman
are a good place to start.
A price range above would be a brand like Todd Snyder and Lucan
Fashion.
On the higher end, Luca Rubinacci is a huge fan of them, and thus, his brand, Rubinacci,
carries different styles.
You can also find them in various Singapore tailoring houses,
such as Yeossal and Callaro as it's a popular style over there.
Of course, there are so many
other makers out there; we can't list them all, but if you have any good ones, please
let
us know down in the comments below.
Also, if you have a pair of Gurkha trousers or shorts,
let us know how you style them.
In today's outfit, I'm wearing some pieces that embrace
the workwear and military nature of a pair of Gurkha trousers, I'm wearing a brown
tweed Spier & MacKay overshirt.
This has multiple pockets, and it's a favorite during those
transitional
months.
Underneath, I'm wearing a light gray Spier & MacKay button-down collar polo shirt.
This is a really nice casual piece.
If I wanted to take the overshirt off, it works well with
the Gurkha trousers.
My Gurkha trousers are from J. Peterman.
They're in a slightly darker
than British khaki, and it's a really nice heavy twill material, which leads to a very
robust and durable pair of pants.
Because of this durable nature, I have them paired with
my trusty Wolverine 1000-Mile boots, embracing again, the military nature and heritage.
My
socks are a pair of blue, heavy cotton socks.
These are a prototype for more cool stuff
happening at Fort Belvedere.
The watch on my wrist is a Tudor GMT Pepsi.
This is a great
watch for me as I can keep track of our vendors in multiple time zones, all around the world.
These socks aren't out yet, but if you want to check out some of the other cool new products
we have at Fort Belvedere, like our new collar bars and some new sock colors - bright blue
and
yellow, khaki, and navy - check those out down in
the shop link below.
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