ahas and bhas this is a two-part series and if you haven't seen part one please take a
moment and look at that one too so bhas and ahas can be found in a variety of cleansers
toners moisturizers serums peels scrubs and masks so you have to be very careful
not to over tax or over exfoliate your skin so ahas are primarily used
for hyperpigmentation like spots melasma scars enlarged pores fine lines surface dehydration
and even pigmentation and tone although ahas are often marked as safe for all skin types you'll
need to be extremely careful if you have dry skin and sensitive if you have rosacea
i always advise to do a patch test because we do not want to get a reaction or damage the skin
barrier so very quickly if this is your first time on my channel my name is maria and welcome
to my channel i am an aesthetics instructor and examiner for many many years i ongoing create
online aesthetics programs for people who want to become estheticians so give me comments below
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so let's get started among has we have the well-known glycolic acid which is the smallest of
all dha that penetrates the deepest and is derived from sugar cane and the most widely used type of
acid in the skin care products ahas have a number of benefits for one they target all
areas of the skin aha exerts benefits both in the outer layer the epidermis and the
deeper layers which is the dermis so let me talk a little bit more about the difference
in the epidermis which is the outer layer this is the one you touch has have an exfoliative
effect increasing the shedding or of the dead cells retained
at the surface they do this by gently cleaving to the retained bonds between the dead cells
once that's cut loose those cells they either fall off or exfoliate deeper in the dermis
it stimulates the collagen production making ideal to those wanting reduce the appearance of
fine lines aha do this both by increasing collagen synthesis by stimulating the fibroblast cells
which is the collagen producing cells in the skin and by decreasing the sodium amazing the
degradation in the existing dermal metrics h.a have been proven effective in reducing the visible
signs of sun damage and wrinkles the dermis is made up of fibers collagen and elastin has a lot
of different cells and then it has this viscosity or gel like substance called the metrics as we get
older this metric starts to harden and so the ahas greatly helps that but also you have to look at
your not only the acids but also the skincare that you're using your diet and drinking of water so we
have different concentration of products usually in cream format we have the three to five percent
now for me those percentages don't work that well it's very very slow for you to see results
it gives you like moisture to the skin so really to see good results you have to have at least ten
percent for the face 15 for the body now if you're going up higher let's say the 20 the 30 now you
have to be a little bit careful the ordinary has a 30 so you have to be a little bit careful and do
a little bit of a patch test now 30 and 40 percent is also done by estheticians i would not advise
you to do the 40 at home higher percentages like a 50 and above up to 70 is usually done by doctors
dermatologists for home use select concentration again 10 for the face and 15 for the body
apply the product every second day i would say and until the body gets used to it but keep a close
eye with any any side effects such as irritation now no matter which aha you're going to choose
your skin will be more sensitive to the sun so i totally advise to wear a hat stay out of the sun
use a mineral sunscreen every morning to prevent sunburns age spots and increase skin cancer risks
so now let's look at different types of ahas the first one that i mentioned is glycolic acid
it helps with exfoliation the molecules are much smaller it penetrates deeper it has an
antimicrobial effect so it does help with acne breakouts and it comes from sugar cane
lactic acid is another common aha now unlike the other ones it does not come from fruit it comes
from lactose in milk it's also known to for a significant exfoliation and anti-aging effect
the next one is tartaric acid while it's not widely known it's another type of aha it's made up
from grape extract and it may help alleviate signs of sun damage and acne and usually tataric is
is a combined with other ahas citric acid is made up from citrus fruit extract its main purpose is
to neutralize the skin ph level and it also helps with rough patches usually you find them in toners
and moisturizers sometimes also in concentrated serum malic acid is a type of h-a-b-h-a crossover
is made from apples or apple acids compared to other ahas malic acid isn't as effective as a solo
ingredient so it's usually combined with other ahas the mandelic acid contains larger molecules
so it doesn't penetrate that deep is derived from almond extract and it can be combined with
other ahas to increase exfoliation so usually it's not found alone it's always combined with
other ahas it's used to help with texture and pore size ahas they do come with some side effects and
most often these side effects occur in a skin peeling product so that's why
i do believe in patch tests side effects are usually local means that they happen where you
apply the product so if you apply it here you're not going to have a side effect on your thigh
now they may include such as burning sensation on the skin rash swelling changes in skin color
sometimes blistering or welts skin peeling itching irritation chemical burns and absolutely
sensitivity to the sun so please be very careful when you use any kind of acids the bha
stands for beta hydroxy acid and the most popular is the salicylic acid
the bhas are organic carboxylic acids that work on the skin surface and deep inside the pores often
preferred for normal to oily skin that's prone to bumps clogs blemishes and enlarged pores bhas
has a skin calming properties it gets a bonus points for being gentle enough for sensitive skin
including those prone to redness like cupro's and rosacea salicylic acid is the most common in bhas
usually a concentration between 0.5 and 5 percent depending on the product that you're using it's
well known as an acne treatment but can also help calm down sensitive skin reduce rosacea related
redness and inflammation so it's an amazing product for an issue like dry or dehydrated
even normal aha is your best bet and aha bha combination might work dependently on your skin
type but when your goal is to exfoliate the top layer of your skin you should be using nha when
you go to an aesthetician or dermatologist they're using as i mentioned before a higher concentration
that sometimes you will need to have a downtime while the over-the-counter cream containing these
ingredients will give you a limited effect that takes time to accomplish the desired results
so it is good to work together with an aesthetician you go have a treatment and then you
can continue at home with your product so you're working together with a professional bhas don't
make your skin as sensitive to the sun compared to the ahas however i would still wear a natural
mineral sunscreen every day this will help prevent further sun damage different types of bhas
okay well we know sacilic acid the beta hydroxy butanoic acid that's a full mouthful tropic acid
and the tretholconic acid now some of the questions that i got from uh individuals
watching my first uh part one and these questions are really good so uh one of the questions that i
got here is uh can you use ahas and bhas together well they did not see this second uh part so
that's why they were asking that question and uh it's indeed safe to use ahas and bhas together
uh i will have a link of the ordinary below which is a pretty good product and not that expensive
they target different actions as discussed before so they have different benefits in essence the bha
disrupts the connections between the dead cells while the aha causes the dead cells to detach
and slough off away another question that i have is which should i apply first ahas or bhas well in
my opinion you should use the bha first then your aha that way the bha can go deeper into the skin
unblock all whatever the blackheads or the dirt in the pores and and as well we'll prepare the skin
for the ahas now some products they will be combined together h a bha together okay we're
in in the product itself now after using your acid depending of the percentage so if you're
using the three or five even up to the 15 you do not need to rinse it off however if you have a 20
or 30 percent you leave it on depending on the protocol of that product it could be five or
ten minutes rinse it off now some products you will need to neutralize that product it will
vary please follow the protocol once you remove it then you continue with your skin care regime
another question that i got was can i combine the has with the hyaluronic acid yes you can
in fact this is an ideal combination hyaluronic acid doesn't function like an habha even though
you have that acid in the name it does not strip the skin actually it nourishes and
the skin so that combination is really good you just have to give some time so if you
are using your habha give it a little bit of time and then you apply your hyaluronic acid
okay another question that i have here can i mix has with niacinamide
yes certainly you can to make niacinamide nhs work together layer them on a cleansed face
just wait some time apart so again once you do your habha wait a little while
and then you can apply your nice cenomite in my opinion i would use the niacinamide in the morning
and always your exfoliators like has mbhas at night okay another question that i have here
can i use ahas and bhas together with retinol if you're following me you know that i'm not
i do not like retinaes and retinols because i find it too evasive they they cause irritation
but there's no research anywhere demonstrating that or concludes that hs or bha exfoliants
deactivates or makes make retinols less effective when used in the same skin care routine however
in my opinion is that they're all exfoliators so make a decision do you want to use the has bhas
great or use retinols don't use them all at the same time because it could cause
damage to your skin barrier or your acid mantle so be very careful not to over
stimulate damaging your beautiful skin i hope that you found this video and part one
to be useful and walk away with simple and easy tips on how to use these exfoliators
correctly remember not to over exfoliate or over taxing your skin damaging your skin barrier or
your acid mantle and consult with an aesthetician or professional for more information give me
comments below give me questions because i love to connect with you until the next time take care