Holy shit.
So today we're gonna learn how to get rescued from a crevasse.
When touring on a glacier, things can be really easy and mellow,
and all of a sudden your partner falls into a crevasse.
That can happen basically anytime and you need to be ready for it.
Holy shit.
First step is going to be to secure my friend.
So now I've got all the traction on me, so it's really uncomfortable,
so I am going to have to basically block myself.
So a good technique is to put the skis.
Ok.
"Can you hear me?"
Communication is really difficult and normally you don't hear the person inside.
So you hope that they are going to do the first step, is to secure themselves,
so they're not going to fall deeper and deeper if there is a snow bridge underneath them.
"I am locked in with the ice screw"
Wah, it is harder than you think.
Ok send the first alert.
So we're going to make an anchor to secure all the traction from this rope down there
so we can liberate all the slack,
and the slack is going to be used to create a hoist to pull the victim.
That's really hard with the tension on the rope.
And it pulls a lot more than what you think.
Obviously the deeper the better, but as a first step we'll do it how we can
and worse case we could do a second anchor to really secure it.
So we're going to take a ski and we're going to make a snow anchor.
The compacting is quite important.
So now it's going to be the pulley traction,
it blocks this way, but slides this way.
So now with the anchor, I am going to put the pulley traction on the carabiner on the anchor.
Just sliding forward a little bit
and just checking that the anchor is solid.
I think that we are good for now.
So it's not 100% ready, now I am going to use all the slack of the rope,
to make all the rescue system.
So now I can take myself off,
and you see all the weight is taken on the pulley.
So now we've done a snow anchor, because there is no ice around,
but if there was ice it would be a lot quicker to just put an ice screw into the ice
and make all the belay from there.
So now, I am going to go on the edge to check how my friend is.
If I just leave all the slack hanging, if the anchor breaks,
my friend will fall all the length of the slack,
and will pull me with him for sure.
So it is important when you go to the edge,
to keep a bit of tension on the remaining slack.
So the Tibloc, the way it works is like,
this way it slides and this way it blocks.
So at this stage you can communicate with your friend.
So putting a shovel or a backpack avoids the rope to sink into the edge of the cornice.
Pretty exhausting to be hanging with all the weight of the snowboard and everything in the harness,
so if you are unconscious it can be pretty bad and pretty damaging for the body
because of non-circulation of the blood.
So now we're going to do some loops with the rope,
to de-multiply the forces, because I am not going to have enough power to just pull my friend like this.
So we're going to use the Tibloc to be kind of putting force into the rope
in the opposite direction.
You can see here, I'm going to be pulling this way,
and it's going to pull here, go through the pulley traction, and be back.
That way, this is a 2:1 hoist so we divide the force that we need to pull the friend by two.
And at the same time I'm going to use all my body weight be pulling on the rope.
So it's important to pull in the direction of the rope,
because if you pull with an angle,
you're going to have a lot less power.
And the good thing with that system, is that with the pulley-traction over there,
everything that you pull gets blocked,
so every centimetre that you gain is credit for you,
it's for your friend to be higher.
But if you are trying to get someone like me, like a little fatty out of a crevasse,
you might want to add one loop to your hoist.
So it becomes a 3:1 hoist, so it's going to give you an extra power,
which is going to be quite useful,
and on top of this you're going to be kind of down hill with your body weight to pull,
so you might have a lot more power to do it.
So now I am going to go and get some more slack.
So I am getting more slack to be pulling my friend that much more.
Ok.
Quite a long process as you can see.
So we've done the over-hanging bit so I'm almost out.
He saved me!
That's it.
So what we've seen here is a very basic crevasse rescue,
it's something that seems kind of easy the theory of it is easy,
but you absolutely need to practice,
at home on the balcony or
maybe in the mountains if you are lucky enough like us today.
Remember it is not just about the gear, but it is also about the knowledge and the practice.
Booyakasha.