The river Wharfe – one of the greatest rivers in Yorkshire, flows through some of the most
varied landscapes in England. Its name means, “fast flowing”, and it does for 80 miles
from Beckermonds to its confluence with the River Ouse at Cawood south of York, before
flowing in to the Humber Estuary and out into the North Sea. We’re going to travel its
first 40 miles, the Wharfedale that is set in the deep glacial valley, created over 10,000
years ago by a glacier gouging, scouring and crushing anything in its path, before melting
away just past the market town of Otley. If you are looking for a spectacular rise to
the river, you’ll be very disappointed – it doesn’t have one source, but rises from
a series of becks that drain the moors of Cam Fell. It’s bleak, wild and boggy country
– the road running over Fleet Moss and down to Hawes in Wensleydale is the highest in
Yorkshire at 1,934ft. Despite its height the Romans also built a cross Pennine road right
along the tops to link their garrisons in Lancashire to that at Bainbridge in Wensleydale.
Much of this road can still be walked on, as it is used by the long distance footpath,
the Pennine Way, that runs 270 miles from Edale in Derbyshire to Kirk Yetholm in Scotland.
You need a fortnight or more to walk its length….. Two becks, Oughtershaw and Greenside, merge
at Beckermonds to form the Wharfe proper. The water in these becks has already run for
three miles or more before reaching here. Stand on Beckermonds bridge and watch the
waters mingle. This golden brown colour is caused by the peat the rainwater has seeped
through. Oddly for a river it never passes through a highly industrialised town or city
along its entire length. Yet this water will be the lifeblood for many along its route;
whether for farming, fishing, drinking water or industrial processes such as papermaking
in Otley. Sheep are never far away – still the mainstay of farms along the dale; however
any associated textile trades relying upon wool are now all gone. Before we leave the
hamlet of Beckermonds have a wander around. Like many dales hamlets, the land around here
has been farmed by the same families for centuries, such as by the Foster and Lodge families at
Beckermonds. They built these farms and farm workers cottages, mostly in the 17th and 18th
centuries. Although this is the river Wharfe, we aren’t yet in Wharfedale proper. This
upper stretch, 10 or 11 miles in length, is called Langstrothdale – a former hunting
forest. At one time trees would have covered the whole area – but has been cleared for
fuel and farmland. The hamlets seen in this part, like Beckermonds, grew around forest
lodges – places from which hunting parties would depart to catch wild deer. Behind Beckermonds,
you will notice the vast acres of a commercial forest. There are few plantations along the
river, and most are used to supply wood locally for fencing or for use in housing, such as
floorboards and joists. Effort is being made to have a mix of tree types and also to follow
the contours of the land rather than stark blocks of trees. All this land falls within
the Yorkshire Dales National Park – established in 1954. They work in partnership with the
government’s Countryside Agency to help conserve and enhance the area for all. However,
nearly all this land is in private ownership – although some areas have special protection
as Sites of Specific Scientific Interest or are managed by The National Trust and other
groups for its flora or its unique geological features. Local services are provided both
by North Yorkshire County Council and Craven District Council. One wonders whether there
are more “officials” based out of the dale than farmers in it! Although shallow
here, the waters are fast flowing, and make ideal picnic spots or somewhere to play in
the natural pools. Look into the river bottom to see where the glacier has scarred the rock.
The next community passed is Deepdale, notable for the first road bridge across the Wharfe.
Along our journey we’ll only come across 13 road bridges and as many footbridges and
stepping stones – if the water isn’t too high! Man has left another impression upon
the land since first coming here, probably around 5,000 years ago. To see an early artefact
your first stop-off point should be the Yockenthwaite stone circle. It is not the only stone circle
we shall see on our journey, but it is the most accessible – after all it is on flat
ground – although across the river from the road! It is 25ft in diameter and is thought
to have been built as a burial mound. Yockenthwaite, now that’s a strange name! It means “Yogan’s
clearing” and is Norse in origin. It came from invaders from Scandinavia who settled
here in the 7th century and is the basis for many of the village names on the Wharfe and
words used in local dialect. It’s this tiny hamlet that is reached by the packhorse bridge.
Moving on a few hundred years, and a mile downstream, we come to St Michael & All the
Angels Church at Hubberholme – again it is very isolated – but central to the hamlets
that it was built to serve in the early 12th century. You need to go inside as it has a
very rare example of a rood loft. These separated the choir from nave and were where the rood
– the crucifix was displayed. They were abolished by Elizabeth I in 1571, however
this one escaped, probably because of its remote location. It’s 18ft wide and 6ft
in depth and was constructed in 1558. From this position you are looking at the back
of it. Go to the alter side to see the quality of the craftsmanship – it hasn’t been
restored – all the paintwork is original. Enjoy the atmosphere….. look out for the
mouseman furniture installed by Robert Thompson of Kilburn in 1934; The stained glass windows
that tell about the dale; The bell dated 1601; And the unusual heptagonal font. Sit and ponder
how this church, so far from the city of Bradford and seemingly having nothing in common with
it, has two connections with it: The parish forms part of the huge Diocese of Bradford….and
if you look at a plaque on the tower – this is a memorial to Bradford born author and
playwright J B Priestley who died in 1984. Opposite the church stands the George Inn.
It may look big from the outside, but in fact the pub was once only the size of a cottage
– its now grown to encompass two! The Church and the pub were once the focal point of all
community life – in fact The George has combined both: it was once the Vicarage! Come
here on the first Monday in January to see the annual Land Letting. Sixteen acres of
steep fellside owned by the church since about 1820, and only suitable for sheep grazing,
is let every year to the highest bidder – the one with the bid when the candle goes out.
The vicar is the auctioneer and takes bids in the bar, called for the night the House
of Commons. The Churchwardens sit in the House of Lords, and take the payment for the winning
bid. The money raised goes to the poor of the parish.