Hi I'm Vance and welcome to Repair and Replace.
If your oven light isn't working it could be one of several problems.
Depending on the model the light is either controlled by the door,
a toggle switch, or a button on the control panel.
In this episode, first we'll check the bulb and test the light socket.
Then we'll look at the different types of light circuits and do some testing with a multimeter.
Let's get started.
Always be safe and disconnect the power at the breaker.
In most cases you can access the light bulb through the inside of the oven.
Unscrew or pop out the lens cover.
Now remove the light bulb.
Replace the bulb if it looks black on the inside or if the filament seems loose or broken.
To double check you can always put the bulb in another fixture to see if it works.
Most ovens use a 40 watt a15 incandescent bulb specifically designed for use in appliances.
Do not use an LED as they fail at high temperatures.
Next replace the lens cover.
Now turn on the power and test the light.
If the light still doesn't work, then we'll have to open up the back to test the other components.
To begin you might need a screwdriver, a nut driver, gloves, and a multimeter.
Always be safe and disconnect the power at the breaker.
Since there might be some sharp edges it's best to wear cut resistant gloves.
Gently pull the range slightly away from the wall.
As soon as there's enough room go in behind and unplug it from the receptacle.
Make sure that there isn't too much tension on the cord.
Now slide the range all the way out so you have plenty of room to work.
On the back of the oven is a cover panel.
Some models have a small panel near the top and a larger panel near the bottom.
Now remove the screws.
The panel will likely be sitting on several hooks.
Simply lift up to remove the panel.
Using a multimeter we can test the light socket and bulb together.
A continuity test will determine if there's a continuous path for electricity to flow through.
Without continuity the light will not work.
Locate the socket and disconnect the wires.
Set your multimeter to the ohms or resistance setting.
Now touch the probes to each terminal.
If the multimeter has no reading and no continuity,
then you'll have to replace the light socket.
Now if the socket and the light bulb are good, then move on to test the switches.
Depending on the model there will be some variation in how the light circuit is wired.
The most basic models will have a toggle switch that controls the light.
A faulty switch or damaged wires can prevent the light from working.
The switch can also be tested for continuity.
First disconnect the wires.
Set your multimeter to the ohms or resistance setting.
Touch the probes to each terminal.
When the switch is turned on there should be continuity, with a reading between 0 and 1 ohm.
If there is no continuity then the switch should be replaced.
To replace it pinch the two tabs together and push the switch forward.
The new switch should snap into place.
Now reconnect the wires.
Some models also have a door switch that will turn on the light when the door is open.
If your model doesn't have a light switch or button,
then a faulty door switch can prevent the light from working.
This switch can also be tested for continuity.
This will likely require you to lift up or remove the cooktop.
You can see how to do that in the video linked below.
Some models will have a door switch and a light switch.
In this case if only one switch is faulty the other switch should still activate the light.
If the light doesn't work when opening the door or flipping the switch,
then it's likely an issue with one of the wires or the wire terminals.
Overall it's best to check that the connections on the light socket are secure.
There are many ovens that use a button on the control board to turn on the light.
These may or may not use a door switch.
If each component is good and the light still isn't working,
then it could be a problem with the control board or the wires.
First do a visual inspection of the board.
If you see any charred or blackened spots,
then it's a good sign that there's a failed component or short circuit in the board.
If you had a power surge recently that could be the cause.
As well, double check that all the wire connectors are secure,
as a loose connection can prevent power from going to where it's needed.
Overall these boards are pretty simple to replace but are non-returnable after installation.
So if you're not sure that the control board is faulty it's best to call a professional.
Align the back panel and replace the screws.
Now plug in the cord and push the range back into place.
Next reconnect the power.
Now you can test your oven.
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furnaces, and appliances, then subscribe to our channel.
And if you need help you can call or visit an AMRE location to talk with our knowledgeable staff.
Thanks for watching.