Hello friends! Today I'll show you how to make a shop built pocket hole jig
as well as how to make a shop built drill bit for it
I copied all the dimensions from Kreg
Kreg made their version of the jig about 25 years ago
It was simple and cheap unlike older setups
Let's take a look at its dimensions and make our own jig
The metal tube is about 45mm
and its diameter is 9.5mm
The angle, just like it is on all other clones
exactly 15 degrees
Kreg didn't come up with any new ideas here
They just made a good small jig with a quality drill bit (plus their great screws)
Kreg simplified the old technology that was only available for professional shops at a time
Today, many hobbyist use this wonderful jig at their home shops
about 18mm here
here is the center
the distance b/w the openings will be 2.4mm
the depth is 40mm
plus 5mm outside of the wooden block
45mm total
I will cut two 45mm long pipes now
I will use epoxy to glue them into the wooden block
please note that the pipes will also be held by wood (the opening is not drilled all the way on purpose)
15 degree finish cut
now I'll remove the wood on the jig
both jigs look alike
a little cleaning
here we have 60mm
I will make the same
b/c this will be the reference point for making pocket holes in 3/4inch (20mm) boards
some finishing
Tung Oil
Now I will show you how to make a drill bit for the jig
I will warn you upfront that this method is not very safe (I invented it as far as I know:))
I clamped the grinder with two clamps and a third plastic strap
for safety reasons
Using the drill press, I preset the depth to 14mm
now I am taking my time so I don't overheat the bit
I thinned the tip of the bit
I would suggest to use a pedal switch for the grinder for safety reasons
then I sharpened the bit on the grinder
and by hand
Now I will test both drill bits
the depth stop is set to 8.8cm (for 20mm/3/4")
So, my bit was predictably not as good as Kreg's one but it worked OK
I think if I reshape the bit's tip a little it will work better
the veneer was pretty hard too
when we look at the pocket holes you can't tell the difference
the openings are identical
I felt no difference driving the screws in
the exit openings are set up properly for this thickness
right in the middle
and this side is OK too
the joint is made properly
In conclusion, there are few final thoughts
cosmetically it would look better had I cut 15 degree angle on the side of the wooden block
and then drilled the holes for the pipes
all other dimentions are identical
you can cut an opening for better waste removal
I didn't make it b/c I noted that some Kreg jigs had them, some didn't
I figured it was not critical to have them
also, my drill bit turned out to be kind of short
so, try to find a longer donor
you need 8.8cm from the step to the depth stop at least
will resharpen it
It is best to use this type of screws with a flat head
fine threads are better for hard woods, while coarse threads are better for soft woods
you can use this type of plugs
they can be used a decorative element
A few words about this big boy
It is an older model
This side support helps you to do the depth setting for boards with different thickness
again, for 20mm board it is 8.8cm
and the same principle is applicable for other board thicknesses
this plastic step is for thin boards
for thicker boards the whole jig goes up
in the new model there is a scale against which the jig is moved up and down
there is also a cap for dust removal in the newer version of the jig
it is best to use all of the openings to prevent overheating of the drill bit
I also use a little oil to prolong its life
Thank you for watching!
Happy Woodworking!
Good-bye...