One of the questions we've gotten a lot recently has been hey, the ripple bead
how are we able to replicate it and what do you have to offer us to do it?
We're going to show you a couple of simple tips and tricks using our one-part products
to effectively get this accomplished.
As you can see here I've been using our beige seam sealer, but what I want to show
you first is how are we going to accomplish that look.
We're going to start with a couple of simple things. Razorblade, vice grip pliers, if you're
using our sausage pack offerings or we can do this with our single cartridge
offering as well.
What we're going to be accomplishing here is we're cutting this
tip just at about a 30-degree angle. You really want to be careful here and not
go too far because this will affect the the look and appearance of the bead.
Once we have that cut off we're gonna take our duck-billed vice grips and we want to
have the angle at the top. What we're going to do is we're going to clamp this
about an inch back and we just want to manipulate that plastic just a little bit.
We're trying to get it flattened out and create kind of a nose effect.
Another key thing is here you want to leave it a little bit in an upright position.
This is going to help when you're laying out the bead.
What you saw me use here
first was actually a urethane. We're going to also accomplish this with an MSP
and then we're going to show you the urethane and the one-part offering.
This simple technique you can manipulate and alter it as you need to to accomplish
what beat it is that you're looking for.
Meaning wider, narrower, smaller, taller, wider, fatter, whatever it is you're
trying to replicate we can accomplish it. So with the MSP here
and when you were doing this your adjustment really here in the air is not going to be very much.
So if you've got a really tall bead, like on the floor pan, underneath say like
some Toyota and Lexus models, if you want to back it off a little bit and get
a little bit of a tighter
flatter, more kind of like a hidden ripple bead where
it's just a little bit in there and you don't really see it until quite when the
paint hits it then it sort of pops right out at you, so depending on what your
product you're using, whether it's our MSP, our urethane
and either the sausage pack offerings or even the hand-caulking cartridge
applicator, we're going to show you here again, simple technique, we're gonna cut
that tip off at about a 30-degree angle.
We're going to put the key here is we
want the top of that to be on the top when we clamp it, so the top of the angle
should be on top. We're going to give it two clamps. The second clamp, when I do it
here is about a quarter inch maybe an eighth inch back from that first clamp.
We're just going to give it a little bit of a twist, okay, and we want to leave
it in an upright position.
Here's why this works so well when you'll do that.
A, it becomes your pressure point. You leave this right on the surface you
don't have to touch anything. So now you're guiding it along the surface
we're forcing the material into the surface, again, you'll hear me
talk about this a lot with seam sealers. Creating a tight seal with the seam
sealer to the surface. It's important depending on what type of seam sealer
you're using and what chemistry. Understanding how we're going to get that
tight seal for adhesion and corrosion resistance.
With our one-part hand caulking applicators
depending on what you're going for, you can go narrower
If you've got a taller bead you can make it a little bit taller.
Again, we're creating a tight seal to the surface.
One of the other misconceptions that people get and
why they sometimes might shy away from
our one part products is that it really takes a long time to cure.
That may be correct in some instances, but what they miss is the fact that you can actually
start painting our one part products in 30 minutes.
Meaning it doesn't need to be fully cured.
A lot of people misconceive that and they want to wait until it's
completely cured before they're actually going to apply their paint.
Using some of these techniques we can accomplish that ripple bead.
With a variety of products depending on what your
application is, what your shop APL might be
we're able to accomplish this look and do it right on the car, create a
hundred percent seal to the surface, completing that
corrosion-resistant seal before it gets painted.
If you have any more questions about this or any of
our other seam sealers, please visit us at 3M Collision Repair Academy.
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Thanks for watching this video guys, and have a great day.