(upbeat music)
- Good day, knuckleheads,
Uncle Knuclehead's here,
and welcome back to step two
of my How to Hang a Door series.
Now, how'd you do with step one?
Told you it was easy,
and now that you've done it,
let's look at putting the hinges
on the door itself.
Now there's a couple things you need
to know about a door before you do that.
First of all, most interior doors
are hollow core doors,
which means that the door consists of only
a band of solid timber going around the outside edge,
both sides, top and bottom,
and the rest is just filled with honeycomb cardboard.
So there's nothing to it,
but the side where you install your lock
there's a block.
It's about 100 millimeters wide,
and it's in the center of your door.
So to locate that,
look at your brand new door,
and there'll be a sticker.
The lock goes on that side of the door.
It has to go on that side of the door.
If it goes on the other side of the door,
where you are installing your hinges,
there'll be nothing to secure your lock to.
So be very aware of that.
All right, and the next thing you need to know,
or the next handy tip,
is that you need the door to be
nice and solid before you start chiseling
or using a router,
and I've just knocked up this really
basic door block.
It's a bit of scrap timber
with a couple of pieces of timber
nailed to it, and the door sits in that slot.
Now, you can use two of these,
one up either end,
or some guys like to use a sledge clamp
which is also very good
for doing that job.
Okay, let's mark out those hinges.
Now my door is swinging in that direction.
So this is the hinge side,
and the hinge will sit just like that.
Now before you start placing your hinges
on the door, you need to have worked out
which is the top of the door
and which is the bottom.
That's the top of my door,
and the bottom is down here,
and there's some debate as to how far up
the top hinge goes, as compared
to the bottom hinge.
This is a door from Hewn Doors,
and on their website, they recommend
that the top hinge starts 185 millimeters
from the top, and the bottom hinge
200 millimeters from the bottom,
and the one in the middle
gets divided between those two there.
Now I like to use a butt hinge
with a removable pin.
That way, if you do need to remove the door
down the track, it's just a matter of
taking that pin out,
and the door will come off.
Now this is the top of the door,
so we want to measure down 185 millimeters
So I measure that,
put a mark on the door,
and then place the hinge
on that door,
and I make sure that
see that little edge there?
The edge right there,
I line that up with the edge of the door.
So I get to my 185 millimeters,
place the hinge on that mark
inline with the door,
and once the hinge is in place,
you can mark around it with your pencil,
just like that,
and then get a Stanley knife or a utility knife,
make sure it's nice and sharp,
and then you can just cut
on those marks,
just like that,
down here as well.
Now the reason I like to use a Stanley knife
is that it leaves a really sharp edge.
Whereas, if you're marking those
with a chisel, it tends to dull over those corners.
Anyway, with that now marked,
we now go to the bottom,
(mumbles) 200 millimeters up from there,
place the hinge, mark it,
and then do one in the center.
Now to get those lines nice and straight,
you can also use a square.
Put that (mumbles) up against the door,
and then scrub away,
just like that.
Now to make the rebate for the hinge,
you can either use the traditional method
of using a chisel and just simply (hammer thudding)
make a series of nicks, like that, (hammer thudding)
inside those lines,
(hammer thudding)
and just chisel that out.
(hammer thudding)
Clean that up, and you've got a nice rebate,
or what I'm going to be using is a router
which I've set up for width-wise
as well as depth.
And to set up the depth and the width
of your router cut
just do a few test runs
over an old scrap piece of timber
until you get it just right,
beautiful.
And make sure when you're using a power tool
like a router that you're wearing
your safety glasses or goggles
and some hearing protection.
We are good to go.
(router humming)
With the bulk of that product now taken out,
you can finish it off with your chisel
and your Stanley knife.
To get those edges,
just follow that line through,
and get your knife and just
work that excess out like that.
And you'll finish up with a really nice sharp edge.
Beautiful, and down here
same thing, just clean that up.
Now I actually get, that's it,
and now the hinges should fit beautifully.
Which it does, that's magic.
With this hinge now done,
all we need to do is the other two hinges.
(router humming)
And there we have it,
all three hinges rebated out
and ready to be screwed on.
And that fits like a glove.
Now to screw the hinges in place,
I, first of all, pre-drill the holes.
I use my thumb as a guide.
(drill humming)
(mumbles) Just use your thumb to guide
the drill bit, (drill humming) like that.
The last one. (drill humming)
There we go. (blows on door)
Now grab
your Philip's head bit,
and now just insert these screws.
Don't go too hard. (drill humming)
Just nice and soft, nice and gentle.
(drill humming)
And those screws should finish flush
with that surface.
You don't want the screws sticking up, otherwise,
(drill humming)
they'll bind when the hinge closes.
Beautiful, now the other two hinges.
(drill humming)
So there the hinges are all attached to the door,
and the door's now ready to be
hung off a door jam.
But I think that's enough for video two.
I'll leave a link for video three
in the description box below.
So make sure you check that one out.
It's where we attach the door
to that door jam.
Now what I want you to do now
is to go out to the shed,
put those hinges on,
come back, and tell me how you went
by leaving a comment in the comment section below.
Well I hope you enjoyed and found that video useful,
and, as per usual, a big thumbs up
is always greatly appreciated,
and if you haven't already,
please hit that subscribe button
for more handy tips.
All righty, out to the shed,
let me know how you go,
good luck, till then, cheers.