- This bike right here in the stand is my Enduro bike
I've spent quite a lot of time
setting it up, dialling it in,
getting everything tuned to just how I like it.
Bikes are made to climb to the top of the mountain,
ride all the way back down as fast as it can.
In this video, I'm gonna talk you through
some of my tips as to how you might
set up your Enduro bike.
What I'm gonna talk about first is the fact
that you want to get your seat height set up,
and also your seat.
I'm not really gonna delve into too much detail here
because we've already got a couple
of full videos on this already.
Check them out, the link will be in the description
at the end of this video.
On this bike, you can actually see
that this is a dropper post.
It means, up at the top, I've got full extension.
With the button right here on my lever,
the compression of that, drop it down,
and it's into the descending position.
You want to get that perfectly set
so you can climb to the top of the hill
as efficiently as you can.
We've got a number of videos on them,
so if you're a little bit confused, check them out.
Now, though, what I really wanted to touch base on
is the fact with the seat angle.
What you want to have this
is at almost horizontal, which you can see here,
but with a very slight tilt towards the back.
This right here is an Enduro-specific saddle.
What it allows me to do is, I've got the comfort.
I've got cushioning for my hipbones right here.
Then, I've also got the positioning of the saddle
so I can actually get back over the bike
on those really steep descents.
My shorts aren't gonna get caught in it,
and it's gonna allow me to really move around on the bike.
(hiphop music)
With my saddle position set,
and hopefully yours too, some tips there,
what I'm gonna do is moving onto the cockpit now.
The first thing, obviously, we need to talk about
is the stem, but for most people,
this is gonna be fixed, and it's gonna be quite an expense
to actually get a new one and change the length,
whether you go shorter or longer.
What you can do is adjust the full width of the handlebars.
These are 780 millimetres.
I'm quite a tall guy, so I like to have wider bars.
Let's take Richie Rude, for example.
He's actually on 760 millimetre bars.
When you see him, he is a massive, strong-looking guy.
You'd really think that he'd be on something wider.
Just goes to show that there is a bit of a balance.
You want to adjust them to how you feel comfortable.
Remember, you don't have to go
for a massive chop at once.
You can do really short increments,
and gradually find out what really works for you.
(hiphop music)
With the width set, we're gonna move on
to looking at the bar roll.
What I mean by bar roll is how much
it's gonna affect that rise of the bar,
and also the sweep of the bar.
You can actually find that,
if you've got it rolled further forward,
you're gonna a have a little bit more weight
on the front of the bike.
Rolled back, the weight is gonna be over the rear.
This is something that I'm quite pernickety about.
You can actually spend a bit of time setting up.
It's dead easy to do.
You just adjust the four bolts at the front of the stem.
Then you've got this little marking right here.
On my bars, you've got a scale of zero to five.
You can line this up with the stem.
Play around with it.
You can actually see that if I almost imitate
what I do with the bar roll,
if I roll it back, you can see that my elbows start to drop.
Roll it forward, you can see that
there's a bit of a rise right there.
What I'm really looking for
is a perfectly straight line right from my wrist,
through my elbow, and into my shoulder.
Once I've got to there, I know that I'm comfortable,
and I've got it set up.
With the bar roll set, and this is important,
I like to do my bar roll, and then move on to my grips.
The first thing about this grip is
it's completely symmetrical.
It's the whole way along, it's circular.
There's no different ridges that I can get
a different feel for if I grip it at different points.
However, this grip right here,
this is an Enduro-specific one from Ergon.
You can actually see just by spinning it around,
it's almost like a teardrop shape.
It has been designed ergonomically for your palm
so you can get the maximum amount of grip.
You've got more vibration dampening right in there,
just for those longer stages
so you don't get so much fatigue.
What I want you to do with the grips is,
if you imagine just holding onto it,
just closing your eyes and finding that set position
where you feel really comfortable,
that is where you want to lock it up.
This is all personal preference
when it comes down to grip choice.
(hiphop music)
We're getting there with the cockpit now.
The next thing that I want you guys to do
is think about that lever position.
This has got a massive effect on, again,
that arm pump position.
What I wanted to show you is,
if I actually drop this lever down a little bit,
you see how it rotates my wrist up a little bit?
There's a lot more pressure gonna be
in this joint right here.
That's what's gonna build the fatigue.
If I bring it back up,
it relaxes it a little bit more.
I've actually got a bigger grip
on the actual grip itself,
allowing me to really focus
on holding onto the bike and braking.
The other thing is that you want to make sure
that you're using one finger for breaking.
Get that lever set up along the bars
so it's perfectly you've got that hook
at the end of the bars to grip into
and pull in when you need to brake.
(hiphop music)
We've got the seat and the seatpost down.
Then we've got the cockpit set.
What we're gonna move onto now
is talking about the suspension fork.
First up, it's sag.
We've got a full, complete walkthrough video
on how to do this, so check that out.
On this air cartridge side too,
you can also put in some volume spaces
depending on your fork, so make sure
that you check out the manufacturer's guidelines
on how you can do this,
and they're recommendations.
With this one, this is quite a complicated one.
You've got low, and you've got high speed compression.
What this really does for you is,
it allows you to dial the bike in
so you can really work with those slow speed compressions,
and the faster speed compressions.
You make the forks sit up when you're railing turns.
You can make it a little more agile
through the rock gardens,
and you can just get added support.
Of course, there's a rebound.
The rebound is all about
how fast that fork returns that,
when it hits the compression,
how it's gonna come back through the travel
and where you're gonna be back in position.
You know what's going on with the compression,
and the rebound circuit, and how that works,
or you've got a rough idea.
What I want you to think about now
is actually how many compression clicks you've got.
You've got your low and your high speed that you can adjust.
Take that all off, and then put it
all the way back on, counting each click.
Do that the same with the rebound.
Go into your manufacturer's guidelines.
They're gonna have a base setting that you can put that in.
Go out for a ride, feel how that is working for you.
Is the bike sticking to the ground?
Do you want a little bit more rebound?
Does it need to be faster?
Do you want some support through the compression?
Write down what you change,
and then go back out for a ride.
Do this a couple of times.
Learn what these settings do for you.
Get accustomed to the bike,
and just keep dialling it in
until you feel 100% comfortable.
It's exactly the same on the rear shock,
so just play with it too, and get them balanced
and perfectly set up for you.
(hiphop music)
My last point, you'll notice that I've actually moved
from the top of the bike onto the bottom, is tyres.
For Enduro, you're gonna want to have them
set up tubeless.
It's gonna give you lighter weight and less punctures.
For these ones, these are the Der Baron from Continental.
You can see, they're quite aggressive side knobs,
but still quite fast-rolling
with aggressive braking edges.
What you want to do with this,
the really important thing is the pressure.
That really affects how the tyre is gonna work.
You want to work from somewhere around the base setting.
Again, just have a look in the manufacturer's website.
To give you a rough idea,
I'm weighing at 78 kilogrammes,
and I've got 26 psi in the rear and 22 in the front.
I've gone for a lighter front psi
just to give me a little bit more grip in that front wheel.
Then in the rear, gets just a little bit faster rolling
for those fast accelerating sections
that I really need to pedal out of turns
into the next burp.
There we go, some of my key points
that I've learned over the years from racing Enduro.
It's all about experimentation.
Write down what you changed
'cause you can always go back to it.
If you want to watch some more videos from GMBN,
then make sure that you click on that globe to subscribe
'cause you'll never miss another.
We're talking about it a little bit earlier on,
it's all about your sag.
Click right up there for if you want
to know more about how to do that.
Click down there for a tyre pressure challenge
when you actually see the differences
when it goes too hard and too soft
all against the clock.
Don't forget, with this video,
there's one thing left to do.
Give it a thumb up like, comments and questions down below,
and share it with all your mates.