In this video we finish off making the radius cutter for the lathe and make a
pair of spherical washers out of steel to test it
we'll also show you the modifications I've made as I've gone along so let's go
into the workshop and see how we get on.
so I've got some one each square bar and I've
cut it off to length just is just a bit shorter than that length. What I'm going to
do is that's gonna be the tool holder bar this is one each square as well
I've turned it in the lathe in the four jaw Chuck to give me a set length and
I've taken off a quarter of an inch off the side so these will fit on this this
and this one's a same and will fit on the other side
I've fitted the base underneath and the center block I'm just going to drill
through this this is a 5mm drill drill straight through the bottom block
so that all these are in line
this is a chuck I use in my drilling machine and because the drilling machine has not
got an ideal Morse taper I found that if I put a milling cutter in this the
vibration would cause the chuck to fall out now obviously when you've got a
milling cutter and the chuck falls out you usually damage your milling cutter
so what I've done is drill a hole straight through the Morse taper
normally on these Chuck's I think I made in china the tapper apart is soft so you
can drill straight through the center to hold it in the drilling machine to stop it
falling out. I've got a long piece of silver steel for the thread on the end
thread on the other end with a nut so that goes through the center the Chuck
and then on this end I screw this part fits in the slot where you put your
drift through. The only thing you have to do is make sure it's central at the top
So that will not come out once it's in the machine. Nowt hat's the part fitted as you
can see the piece of steel that forms a nut is there and you just see the
the bar coming through the middle just watch that this part doesn't foul the
inside of the quill so they can turn round without obstructing. If you want to
take the chuck out you just put a socket up the jaws of the Chuck undo the bar
take out the nut at the top there and the chuck can be drifted out as normal
but that'll stop the chuck falling out if you've got a bad Morse taper in the
top or you doing something where the vibrations that bad it just vibrates the
chuck out I'm just using a small square just set my parting off tool square
this is a tool holder and it needs to be about just under 45 ml from the tip to
the end
that's okay holding the tool holder I made with the
tungsten carbide piece on the end here we've just clamped it into the tool post
This is an end mill and I just want to put a flat near the bottom of the tool post
to hold the grub screw
it's a piece of Emery cloth in a stick just turn it around hold it in the chuck
on the Emery cloth so it does not untwist
It polishes the bore so you get a nice fit the cap head on the end locks the
height of the tool this is roughly set so that the top of that is the right
distance. I've just set this block here with the cap head in parallel to
the chuck so that I can mill a slot down there these are just packing pieces I'm
using the tool post clamping screw to hold this down
The cutter it's just
below the edg e I just want to cut maybe 0.010" deep a groove along that edge.
I've had to set my compound slide that way because I haven't got enough travel on
the cross slide so I could set the job further back to give me the travel.
This cross slide when I was halfway across it was coming off the end of the
screw. You can see there thats just give me enough travel
Lets see what happens
I've just fitted the dial indicator Zero it. So I can see how much cut I'm
putting on lock that up.
the idea of the slight recess here is that when these screws are tightened up they
will leave a mark and that mark doesn't stop the tool post sliding in and out
this is the bearing plate with the bearing and the pivot pin going through
if you remember when we machine this in the four jaw Chuck we drilled a center
drill hole to steady the the metal now I'm using the center drill hole on each
side to drill 5mm to tap M6
I put six mill tap in the drill
I've just done some tidying up.
I've rounded off these chamfer on the edge
rounded the edge of the block off here
all I need to do now is file off. Chamfer for the edges and file these bits off.
now let's go over the parts that we made this is a top plate and that's the
dovetail and the only thing I've changed on the dovetail. Is I've put a recess on the
end so when the pivot pin goes through I can put a nut in there to lock the
pivot pin. You need to make that recess big enough to put a socket in so you can
just tighten the nut up also on the top bearing plate is rounded off
the edges to make it look a bit better gives me a bit more clearance on the
lathe and I've also put two holes there and made a crude spanner so I can hold
that when it's inside I'll tighten the nut up I'm also relieved this plate to
give me a diameter that's flat there so this is clearance I haven't touched this
face on this plate because I want the use it to put other fixtures and things
on so that goes through there the spanner in there
Turn this and then once it's right put your nut on there and lock that. Not
tight but there's no play in that before it was going up and down so I've
got a nice smooth movement on that now and if it becomes any more play you
just tighten the nut up I'm hoping the lock nut will stop this from
unscrewing because it should only pivot on the bearing I've just bolted these down
to the base
I've put a small center drill mark there and that's so if I want
to take the tool post out I can put a center punch in the hole tap you through
without damaging the face this tool post fits in here
that's the Pivot Center they're. A eight-millimeter bar so what I was
thinking of doing was putting an eight millimeter slot in here so when this is
fitted you can measure from the pivot Center to the tip of the tool and know
exactly what radius or ball diameter you're cutting so you can put that there
and you know exactly where the center of the pivot point is and you can set the
distance there before putting it on the lathe but I'm not going to do that at the
moment just in case there are some more modifications
I need to do
The handle I'm using it's an 8mm rod 6mm thread on the
end it just screws in there this this one was used for my cutter grinder and
I've got another use for it now.
If i need it cranked
I'll get another six mil rod and just have it bent over
first test of my ball turning fixture on steel this is quite tough steel and what
I'm doing is I'm making a spherical washer so I need a dome here and I will part that off
okay there's a spherical part hopefully on centerline there comes across to
there it would be about three three and a half inch ball I've just set my
parting off tool up I'm using a centre a revolving centre just
steady the bar because it was getting a lot of chatter
Let me explain what I've done I've rotated the tool cutter so that this point
of the cutter was over this side so no it's on the outside I've turned the
whole jig round this was over this side like that and the handle was on this end
I put the handle on the other end turned it round because I'm doing a
concave surface the metal is touching the bottom of the tip which has given me
a problem so what I've done is put the lathe in reverse some cutting on the up
and the bottom of the tip is cutting the radius
that's the other side this is the one I parted off earlier so now I've got a
matching socket that can float in there these are the two finished spherical
washers that one's got a bigger diameter so we can move that fits inside that's
the finished radius cutter modifications I probably make his make this bar reduce
the diameter because I did notice it was catching on the spherical concave so
obviously it needs the tip sticking out further so I can reduce this bar bit
lower down the other thing I did was put a small pin in the top plate to hold
this in position stop it turning thanks for watching I hope you enjoyed it and
see you next time on Enots engineering