Flat Pattern Drafting
A Tutorial
Dart Manipulation
If you are following my tutorials
for Flat Pattern Drafting
on my website
angelakane.com
you will now have a Basic Block
and the Sleeve Block
and you will also have created
a Fitted Bodice Block
all to your own measurements
Here are a few ideas
to show you the process
of using the Fitted Bodice Block creatively
I have printed and cut my drafted block
but you will have yours
drawn to your own measurements
on some pattern paper of some sort
If you haven’t got around
to drafting your own block
you will find this example on my site
angelakane.com
a free PDF
so print it off and play around with it
You will get an idea of the technique
and the potential
I’m cutting out the dart portion
and this is a good idea for your blocks
as it makes it easier to trace
When you are finally happy with the fit of a block
trace it on to card
as it will be getting plenty of use!
So this is our block cut out
I’ve left these narrow darts
on the slanted CF and CB lines
as we may be placing these pieces on a fold
All the darts shown can be moved around
and this video will give you a taste
of what can be achieved
Closing the darts
will create a three dimensional object
Let’s get these darts taped together
See how the shape is formed
I’ll cut these open again
To move the dart position
we slash into the pattern
just short of the True Bust Point
and the same with the shoulder dart
We manipulate the darts around this pivot point
and this ensures
that the measurement around the bust
will stay the same
and therefore the fit, won’t be altered
Let’s move the shoulder dart to the side seam
Again slash into the Bust Point
Then, when we close the darts as before
the end result is the same
but we have changed a design feature
We could add the fullness to the centre seam
and perhaps make it a pleat
or a gather instead of a dart
We could move the dart to the armhole
or have the dart coming from a point
just above the waist
We could separate all these pieces
for a colour block garment
and loose all the shaping in the seams
I’ll just tape up all these slashes
and perhaps have a princess seam
by cutting right through
and rounding the seams a little
We can do exactly the same on the back
This time our pivot position will be
around the base of the shoulder blade
As with the front pivot
being on the true bust line
the back pivot also needs to be
on the widest part of the pattern
which is the measurement we need to protect
The bottom of the shoulder blade
is about halfway between
the Across Back Width
and the Bust Line
We can get these measurements
from the basic draft
In this case
the bust line was 8¼” below O
and the back line was 4⅛” below O
Midway will give us a pivot point
So we can move these dart lines
anywhere we choose
A little overlap along the line is ok
So taping up our slash lines again
Let’s use this method to create a back yoke
with the shaping in the yoke seam
We now have our two separate pieces
with integrated shaping
This is the principle of designing
using the flat pattern
rather than the draping
or moulage method
Draping is only practical if you have a dress form
and more importantly
one that fits you
See my next video
where I take this technique further
Join my site for the tutorials
on producing the Basic Block
the Sleeve Block
and the Fitted Bodice Block
and all to your very own measurements
Thank you to everyone
who has written to tell me of their success
with drafting their own blocks
Check out my Reference Page
on my site
for inspiration
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to keep you up to date with my tutorials and patterns
Thank you very much for watching this video