From SwissWatchExpo… Spotlight on: the proprietary and top secret
rose gold alloys of Rolex, Omega, and other top watchmakers.
Rose gold has become increasingly popular in the recent decades. Warmer and more mysterious
than yellow gold, yet more noticeable than white gold, the precious metal has a unique
allure when used in a luxury timepiece.
The creation of rose gold requires for copper to be added to the alloy; and is achieved
only with utmost care in stabilizing the mixture of metals.
This delicate balance, as well as the increasing popularity of rose gold in the market, has
led watchmakers to create their own special formulas of rose gold alloys. Here’s a quick
guide to the proprietary rose gold alloys in the market today.
Since 2005, Rolex has been crafting its own rose gold alloy, named Everose Gold. In the
early 2000s, Rolex built its own state-of-the-art foundry where it began to cast its own metals.
It was an unprecedented step for a watchmaking brand — not only did it allow Rolex to ensure
that only the finest materials are used in their watches, it also allows them to determine
a watch’s aesthetic, mechanical and dimensional properties.
Everose, as its name suggests, will retain its luster for long. Instead of the usual
component of rose gold – which are gold, copper and a hint of silver – Rolex adds
Platinum, whose effects appear to be two fold.
First, it serves as a bonding agent and prevents fading that can be caused by water, salt,
sweat or UV rays. It also provides the long lasting luster that Rolex watches have become
known for.
Omega’s trademark rose gold is called Sedna Gold, unveiled in 2013 with the Omega Constellation.
Similar to Rolex’s Everose gold, the Sedna Gold is an 18 karat gold alloy that combines
Gold, Copper, and a third element to bond and protect the luster of the metal. In Omega’s
case, it’s palladium instead of silver.
The Sedna Gold’s unique rose gold colour is a result of blending the right proportion
of copper, with palladium, whose presence ensures that the reddish hue of Sedna Gold will last
for long.
After making its debut with the Constellation, it is also now used in the Omega Speedmaster
and Seamaster lines.
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Since 2010, A. Lange & Sohne has also created their own rose gold alloy called Honey Gold.
As its name suggests, it is only slightly rosy and has yellow undertones.
The company keeps their formula a well-kept secret, but has declared Honey Gold to be
tougher than platinum. For this reason, molding a watch using this precious alloy is more
difficult, and thus it is used only on their most special models.
While Rolex and Omega add a third metal to their rose gold, Panerai increases the copper
component of their patented alloy, known as Goldtech.
The higher percentage of copper gives the material a rich and intense sunset hue. Aside
from 24% copper, the exquisite Goldtech also contains 0.4% platinum, which prevents the
material from oxidizing, thus extending the luster of the timepiece.
Goldtech was introduced in 2016 with the Panerai Luminor Due (doo-eh) line, and is now also
being used in the Panerai Submersible line of professional diver’s watches.
Just like Panerai, Hublot opted to go for a fiery tone of rose gold. Called King Gold,
Hublot’s proprietary version combines a higher percentage of copper than the industry
standard 20.5%.
Instead of gold, it contains mainly platinum, which perfectly lends itself to all elements
of polishing and satin finishing. King Gold is used in the Big Bang and Classic Fusion
lines.
With darker tones and a more mysterious demeanor, rose gold is fast becoming the choice metal
of many watch collectors.
Which rose gold alloy is your favorite? Tell us in the comments section. Want to learn
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