Good to see everybody again, thanks for joining us today. We're going to talk about
GM tubular control arms. I'm Jesse we got Steve our expert here going to walk us through you know
we've got three different styles we've got Street, Pro-Touring and Drag and Steve's going to explain
the differences and why each of those might be right for the type of driving you do. Thanks
Jesse. So this is our Street lower control arm. Street version will come with the polyurethane
bushings in the pivot points our low friction ball joint that is maintenance free ball joint
do not have to ever do anything to it. Pairing that Street lower control arm
would be the Street upper control arm and that has polyurethane bushings in the pivot points
again our low friction ball joint maintenance free. Together these arms add about three to
four degrees of caster and with the Street arms and they're just they're just bolt-on
to go on any car not to say that you can't take these to a track day or a
drag race or something like that. Just a great arm option. Yeah good all-around arm
solves a lot of problems for a lot of folks you know but if you do do some more aggressive driving
on tracks or drag we've got a couple different options there. Yeah. What are the differences
between you know those types of arms? Yeah on our Pro-Touring lower control arm it's the same
weldment as the other control arms however it's got a low friction composite bushing in
the pivot point and it's got a low friction ball joint. Nice free stuff up. Oh yeah and on the
top side of the Pro-Touring side of things this is our Pro-Touring upper control arm that also
has composite low friction bushings in the pivot points and an extended upper ball joint very free
moving. Now we do run an extended upper ball joint in the pro touring that's going to give us better
camber gain when cornering hard and just a better arm if you're going to do some type of competitive
weekend turning events. Eliminate as much bind as we can get that shock and spring working the best
they can together. And again if you have a weekend warrior you can definitely run the Pro-Touring
arms on your street cars not an issue. Awesome. When it comes to the drag racing side of things
on the Drag lower control arm similar to the Pro-Touring it's got the composite low friction
bushings as well as the low friction ball joint. On the Drag arm you will see a red anodized this
is not the Drag arm this is the Street but on the drag arm you'll see a red anodized
lightweight ball joint cap that will signify that it is the Drag lower control arm.
And then on the top side of things is our Drag racing upper control arm again very free moving
with the composite bushings in the pivot points low friction ball joint and on the Drag arms
you'll see there's the red anodized lightweight cap. Another thing with the drag arms is that we
include an adjustable droop stop. This is going to help you limit the amount of travel at the track
if you're you've got a car going airborne you know that you want to run a limiter
strap or something like that to prevent the shocks from just pulling themselves apart this
droop stop is what helps us adjust that just before the shocks get to their full extended
save your shocks also you can help tie it down with that also. Yeah. All right Steve so
the boxes showed up in my door beautiful brand new control arms inside what do I need to know
to get these things installed on my car right. Well right out of the box Jesse that's going to
come with the control arms going to come with all the hardware it's going to come with the written
instructions with photos and everything so it's just a real simple remove and replace situation.
Got some install videos done. Yeah. On the upper control arms we do not include upper hardware
the upper control arms are held into the chassis by pressed in studs. Okay. We don't want you
to take those studs out of the chassis because it'll open up the hole that they're pressed into
that is why there's no upper hardware so reuse the upper hardware but with the lower hardware comes
with everything you need. All new basic hand tools stuff I can do in my shop or garage. Absolutely.
If I've got conventional springs looking to get rid of those I'm thinking about installing
coil-overs will these arms work for my coil-overs? Yeah so you'll be required to use coil-overs with
our lower control arm. Our coil-overs are going to show up with this T-bar installed. Now this is
installed so that you can use these with your factory control arms if that's the route you're
going. But when combining it with our lower control arms you'll find inside the lower
control arm box a spherical bearing spherical bearing will go into the shock easy hand tools
to swap the T-bar out put the spherical bearing in and it drops right down into the pocket.
The through bolt that holds this coil-over to the lower control arm is also inside the lower
control arm box. And when you do install these Pro-Touring arms with the extended upper ball
joint stud you will see a section of this ball joint sticking up out of the spindle completely
normal it's an extended ball joint stud. All right so once we got a few miles on these arms
you know what sort of maintenance do I need to do to keep them up? Is there a difference between the
Street arm through the Drag arm or? Yeah all the pivot points will have grease fittings as well as
the ball joints the ball joints will use a lithium grease just needs one or two squirts as well as
the pivot points. Now the pivot points and the low friction bushings in the Pro-Touring and Drag arms
they really don't need anything we install grease during assembly and that's with that composite
material it just it just isn't needed but you can you could do a little bit of grease if you wanted
to. The other bit of maintenance is going to be in the ball joint it is greaseable this is our
Street arm it's the low friction it is maintenance free so maybe a squirt of grease into that one.
On the Pro-Touring as well as the Drag arms they have the low friction ball joint. Now this ball
joint is set up for competition because it's a rebuildable unit we're going to want you to check
the preload every three to six thousand miles. So those are the details on the QA1 control arms
whether you get the Street the Pro-Touring or the Drag version we're glad you stopped by to
check out this video. We've got lots of other tech videos on our YouTube channel you can check out
you can call us at the tech line if you have any questions and until then remember to #goDRIVEit.